happeboy

Better to cull then to help wreck a species. Just cull humanly.

Simple solution quarantine the sick fish in its own medicated tank. Or use a different wide spectrum anti-bacterial.

I would presume the city would not give out barrels that would leach out anything like lead or mercury. I'm sure it would be fine. oh ya thanks for letting us/me know about this deal, I'm going to get a few.

Definitely ask. If its of fish you want or fish types you want I wouldn't see a problem. If its store layout and prices (or even including prices) you may find issues. As a store manager/owner I do not allow any photos in the store.

I have used API Fungus Cure if it looks fungal, ie its not smooth. I never found the Melafix or primafix really worked alown.

Ill through my hat in for P. Socolofi, basically choose which you like more or can get a better quality of fish. I have found you can do many mixes (especially mbuna ) regardless of aggression if you dont overcrowd and dont have 2 species from a genus. Im not the world expert or even this sites expert just what I have found.

Not the best quality pic, and not mine but thought I'd share it once I noticed the little problem for the angel fish.

Rotala wallichii I believe. Ive had it before, I ended up tearing it out in rage. It even with CO2 and high light mine still dropped a lot of leaves, so many in fact it always plugged the filter intakes. best of luck. See tropica.dk NB: I didnt adjust ph or hardness I know this wouldnt have helped.

yes CO2 is best. If your going to furtilise and have high light you really do need it, excel can only do so much. Buy an real canister and good regulator $250. Milwaukee Co2 MA957 Regulator Set - owned ok AQUARIUMPLANTS.com's Co2 Regulator (The 2nd BEST) - owned good AquariumPlants.com's Electronic Co2 Regulator (the BEST in the World) - new looks awesome or just to good to be true dont know I never killed off my tank with CO2. I shut CO2 off at night, but a lot of people do not. Its really not that hard once you have read up and done it. In overall long term cost benefit you will spend way more in ferts and other stuff then in CO2, equipment included. But a bit of advice is to buy the best once there are a lot of crappy regulators/solenoid out there if something will die and cause havoc its that. If you cheap out at the start you will just pay more later.

that would be theft if you took it from his property. this just seems bizarre. But in the long run when or if fresh water is in short supply to keep people from "owning" it and hording it it makes scene. And if you cut down branches of a neighbors tree overhanging your property make sure to though them back on his property or that to is theft.

don't know what you have now but Eheim Automatic Twin Feeder 3582 is garbage only does flake. Ive tried other cheap ones and the rotating dumping kind by they dont work either. lifeguard Rondomatic, it was always the one I wanted, it may work. I decided to stop wasting money on feeders before I got to it, just used flake in the eheim above.

If you are over run by algae, to get ahead of the algae you could turn off all light and do the black out to kill the algae first. give it 2 days no light most algae will not survive this water change and voila! your plants should be fine during this time. cut the light back to 8 - 10 hours, with 1 CLF you cant really vary the intercity of light, so you may just have to play around to find the balance. On one tank I had it could handle 8.5 to 9 hours. Over or under all hell broke loose. there is a limit to how long plants can photosynthesis efficiently after that algae start to win. If you want a real plant factory you need co2 which allows you to run lights longer & at higher intensities. I never had luck with Excel at the needed dose it killed my fish, if you dont have fish or more hardy types it I hear works. In either case if you don't need the water movement try to cut it down especially at the surface. best of luck

Big Als has a silicon, may not actually be silicon, that they say can be put in place with standing water and is fish safe. If you know where the leak is may be worth a try. Other wise well depends how much time and money you have, lots of time re-silicon little time more money buy new.

Micro swords are working well for me, no CO2 and in sand with cichlids trying to rip them all out all day. only 2wpg. I never had luck with prime seemed to kill either the fish or the plants so I'm not using that either.

Not that I have big tanks yet, but that is why I would be afraid to automate. Technology great when it works but oh so touchy. hope all's well.

Just identical twins has my vote, but still neat to see. Jorg I assume you destroyed it? not that it would have much of a chance anyway.

nice indeed, and plenty of time for him to colour up. He's still pretty young.

only way I have gotten rid of really bad alga is total blackout (ZERO light) for 3-4 days. this should kill the alga (it doesnt have a large energy store) (other plants should be fine) its just a matter of doing a big water change and filtering the dead alga out. Though I didn't try to many chemicals as I was told they were fairly useless and quite harmful.

I wouldn't touch Coralife with a ten foot pole, even thought its what I have I will never buy them again. Just buy something good right off. Penny wise, Pound foolish.

I have never had good luck doing anything with my Coralife. They seem designed to brake with the slightest use of force. I would try compressed air and a vacuum first. good luck

SeaChem Prime simple safe and concentrated what more could you want. And I don't muck with hardness and pH it always just turned out bad for me and the fish.

do you have paces for the plecos to hide? I haven't had problems but I have quite a few rock and driftwood hideouts

well so far sup has it I guess in the votes Thanks for the help

Now that people have had time to run in the FX5 what do you think is it good. I want to know just what has the highest reliability and life span.