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geleen

Edmonton & Area Member
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Posts posted by geleen

  1.  As soon as there are spawning hormones in the water, other pairs would be triggered into spawning as well. Angels quite often spawn every 10 to 14 days.  While they can seriously injure and kill, usually that is not the case.  Having 12 barbs in a tank usually prevents them from nipping at other species, they are too busy among themselfs.One pair of angelfish will be happy in a 20 gallon tall. So they don’t need all that much room. Having some predatory species like, for instance rainbow fish or Bristlenose pleco ( and many others) in the tank helps by them stealing the eggs and  limits the time of aggression. 

    You could use An eggcrate divider in the 55. Certain species of cichlids can and will be very aggressive and for some of usthat can be hard to take.

     

     

  2. For the majority of fish no need to worry about kh and dh, the reason your ammonia goes up after the water change is because you’re likely using the product called prime which gives you a false reading for about three days. Sounds like you’re on track.

    Most fishes in the stores come from commercial breeders and there is no need to worry about changing the parameters of your water as they are already used to it. Trying to change pH is not a good idea for the fish you have and actually most others.

     Quite often, Neons and angelfish get along just fine,  especially if they are  introduced within a short time of each other and they are not full-grown angelfish. 

    John

  3. The temperature is likely fine a couple of degrees one way or the other.  The thermostat on the heater is not very accurate. The thermometer is not accurate. However on the whole it works just fine.  I use a digital household thermometer that can be used for cooking and I’m quite happy with that. 

    The rocks are fine.

    Bart  is an expert in the use of plants for filtration. However as a newbie I recommend constant monitoring and do your water changes anyway until you are comfortable. Stocking densities are especially important with this methodology.

     I also have a bunch of plants that you can try, however I am near West Edmonton mall.

    John

  4. 56 minutes ago, new2fish said:

    Thank you so much, Jordanne and John,

    What I need is help "from the trenches", and you have kindly provided this.

    Answers to your questions:

    1) water changes:  I haven't been great with this. During the "algae bloom from hell", I sucked out about 50% and replaced with distilled. Since then: not 100% sure, but have likely done 10% every 2 weeks or so. Water replaced directly from the tap, with about 1/3 capful of Prime each time. 

    ........If you add distilled it will change ph.drastically, also desolved solids change drastically.....equals diseased fish due to the stress. 72 gallon is 1½ caps prime if you add water directly from the tap......fish where exposed to chloraminines......dead fish.......

    ........Water changes the most important.

     

    1.5) Feeding the fish: used to do it daily. Now every second day. Just a little pinch. I am the only one with the qualifications to feed.  The food *used to be* on the counter, and my staff told me that sometimes clients (usually clients children) took it upon themselves to give a feeding. Now the food is kept in a drawer, and only I do the honours.

    ....great, I feed twice a day without problem....

    2) Salt - only added API salt once, on Dec 13. Did not even add as much as the label suggested. I kinda weenied out on that one. Here on the forum there was a lot of discussion. I thought that salt may help with our water hardness here in Edmonton. But is there a way to test or monitor this. I haven't added salt since that one time.

    ......salt only for diseases as a prophylactic, it changes osmotic regulation. Helps with the parasite ich......usually not needed.....raises PH and increases dissolved solids.

    3) Plant species - OK, again a newbie answer. Kinda the plants that you can buy from Big Als or PetSmart (i.e., your run-of-the-mill varieties)

    .....salt depending on dose kills plants.....look for low light plants..crypts, stem plants, swords and Anubis.

    4) assessing poop: I have, in the past with the 20 gallon tanks, had fish with the 1-2 inches of feces hanging out from the back end. These fish: not so much.  So not sure how to get poop for assessing. Will try

    5) Gill smears - yes, I can. Although being a vet, I fall back to the concept that I know Dogs and Cats *a lot*.  Fish, not so much. I had finches and canaries for years, and also didn't really do Vet medicine on those either. However, I have a new associate that is keen on exotics. so *MAYBE* with my specialty (I am a Clinical Pathologist) and his interest, we can team up and look at fish as another species of interest. I think that reading here, Fenbendazole is the answer to all fish parasite woes. I have Panacur. Can treat, if needed

    .panacur.......most worms,  but of course not external or gill parasites or bacterial infections.

    My feeling always has been that species with nucleated red blood cells (ya know, the reptiles, amphibians and fish.......oh and also those nasty insects - tarantulas come to mind) have medical issues mostly based on HUSBANDRY issues. So I have focussed on those. Looking to you folks in Edmonton that have overcome the hard water and algae bloom issues to give insight here. But maybe the insight is that I have relied on weak fish (from local retail outlets) to establish my tank. 

    .....yes yes for sure.

    ......Important..most fish in the stores are fine with our water once introduced slowly, they have been captive bred for cazillion generations.  Do not worry about the tap water at all.  Unless you purchase more specialized fish. You might try rainbowfish.

    These suggestions and any others so greatly appreciated. 

    Cheers, Kate

    more questions please let me know.

    John

     

  5. Prime will show ammonia for about 3 days because of the chemical conversion to the less harmful form of ammonia according to their website. I think your tank is cycled. 

    The fish that are dying now, is the issue.

    No fish store is free of parasites but unfortunately petsmart does not have a good reputation. Use your microscope to look at the poop to start with. Necropsy will also show gut nasties etc.Take a gill scraping and have a look.   Worms are common. Etc.

    you have  the skill and knowledge to treat without guessing.

    brown or any algae is a result of imbalance between nutrients and light....reduce one or both.

    a lot of fish die from over feeding and improper maintenance. Most expert believe in 50 % per week all in one go. 

    add only 2 to 3 fish every 2 weeks to let the bio buildup the levels of bacteria needed for the added load.

    try to buy from local breeders, the chances of parasites is greatly reduced.

    the tetras you like are not usually available by local breeders......also very aggressive in small numbers.

    see if any of this rings a bell and go from there.

    John

     

    Btw Edmonton can use a good vet for fish.

     

     

  6. I keep some species of  rainbowfish outside; they will survive even 12c for short periods. I had boesmani outside breeding in temps from 16 to 35 c  even had that range in one day occur several times. This year I have C. alleni in a 40 gallon watering trough . With a heather set at 20c,  it has been one week and so far so good. I use a hob filter. Some Val, and some hornworts. Also a potted Chinese evergreen, a plant that likes its roots in water.

    j

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