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Milan

Calgary & Area Member
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About Milan

  • Birthday 08/19/1961

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  1. I've never had problems trimming them like that. They just keep growing.
  2. Doesn't really matter which type you use, as long as you have sufficient flow and proper filtering media. For planted tanks, filters are sized according to it's flow, which needs to be about 4-5 times (gal/hr) of the tank volume (gal). As far as filter media goes, you need mechanical (foam), and biological (BioMax or similar). Occasionally (ie. after medications), you may need a chemical (active carbon). Personally, on smaller tanks (<80g), I prefer HOB type, because of easier maintenance (fewer media chambers, no hoses ...). On the other hand, if you wish to use a spray bar, for whatever reason (ie. water circulation), you don't have a choice, but to use a canister.
  3. I have never used Flourite myself, but I remembered, once I came across a thread on APC about it. Here it is. Hope it helps.
  4. You can just split the horizontal rhizome by cutting it into desired pieces.
  5. Milan

    Carbo-Plus

    Jay, Regulator, solenoid, needle valve and bubble counter are usually "all-in-one" piece. Here is an example of a typical unit. All you need to do is to attach it to the CO2 cylinder on one side, and run a hose to your tank from the other. Milwaukee Instruments regulator can be found often on E-bay, or Best Lab Deals, when it's on sale. Everything under $100 cad (incl. shipping) is a reasonable price.
  6. Milan

    Carbo-Plus

    Hello Jay, Carbo-Plus is indeed based on water electrolysis method. Supposingly, H2O is broken down into H2 and O2, where H2 reacts with C and O2 from carbon sticks (Carbo-Plus inserts), creating H2CO3. How well it actually works, I have never had a chance to verify, perhaps because this method of CO2 enrichment is not very popular among aquarists. Is it because of it's (in)efficiency, or maintenance cost, I can only speculate. Most aquarists first try with DIY, sugar+yeast fermentation method, mostly because of it's low initial cost. You can read more in this article. However, a pressurized system is by far superior, comparing to any other method, efficiency and maintenance wise. There are no "odd" parts which you can not find easily, but the initial cost of this system is significantly higher.
  7. Peat will definitely help, specially root feeders. How much, I can't tell. Make sure you add it sparingly. Just sprinkle in the lower layer, and top it with 1-3mm gravel. Too much of this stuff will put you in a misery. Your assumption about Nitrogen source may be correct, or may not be ... Test will tell.
  8. Windeindoiel, bear in mind that most of the commercial ferts are based on K+TE formula, which means they have no Nitrogen and Phosphorus components. The only commercial ones that that I know of, are Nutrafin PlantGro NPK (green), and Seachem "Nitrogen" and "Phosphorus". Another, cheaper option would be using the KNO3 and KH2PO4, from a hydroponic store. However, I would not jump to conclusions before you test the actual NO3 and PO4 levels in your tank.
  9. Can't tell you about Edmonton LFSs, but if you come to Calgary, Pisces usually has fresh supplies of Hygrophila difformis. They go for about $3 for a 2-3 stems bunch. You may also post your wish list in the Plants Give-away/Swap section (pinned). Cheers and good luck!
  10. There are some pieces of information missing here ... What is your wpg (lights watt/gal)? If it's under 1.5 (on a medium size tank -> less than 80g), CO2 is very unlikely the culprit. Have you tested NO3 and PO4? You should keep them in 10-20 ppm and around 0.5 ppm range respectively. NO3 test can be done at most LFS free of charge, but not the PO4. Test before a water change. It most likely that that the lack of these (one or both) is causing algae to take advantage over plants, as Jvision suggested. I agree with Pat .. No need to shut off your DIY CO2 over night. If you used pressurized system at high bubble rates, if you have next to no plant bio-mass, if surface agitation is next to none .... Then perhaps ...
  11. Hello Raven, Beside already mentioned, I would suggest Higrophila difformis (water wisteria). It grows fast, bushy and it's relatively tall. It is one of the least demanding plants. It's inexpensive too ...
  12. Fatpuffer, I'm leaning toward Jvision's diagnose of your problem. It is known that yeast/sugar mixtures provide a very good breading ground for bacteria and fungus stuff. I experienced it too, when I was on DIY. It appears like a whitish, jelly-like substance which obstructs the gas flow. However, if you are not using silicone tubing for your CO2 line, you may blaim the H2CO3, but such a tube meltdown would occur after a long period of time.
  13. Hello Dave, Algae blooms are more related to nutrient deficiencies than light intensity. However, indirectly the light plays a significant role by driving the plants metabolism. More light results in higher nutrient uptake, hence deficiencies occur faster, if not followed by proper supplementation. The only nutrient which is known to cause algae if in excess is the ammonia, but this should not be present in an established tank, if your fish load is not too high and the filtration is sufficient. 90% of algae problems in high light tanks are related to the lack of CO2. Lack of NO3 and PO4 are common too. In your case, two 4' fluorescent tubes would give you about 80 watts (or less), which on 70 gallons tank is not considered to be a "high light" condition. Perhaps, 4-6 of such tubes would get you there.
  14. Harold, 1.44 wpg is already low light tank. No PPS or EI teritory, neither CO2 (although it does not hurt). With moderate fish load, this tank runs well on K+TE formula (most commercial ferts). Windeindoiel, Bear in mind, there is no algae free tank. It's only the owner's level of tolerance that matters. Specifically, hair algae is a sign that you are not much far from the nutrient balance. You may also introduce some algae eating fish, such as Siamese Algae Eaters. Do you have NO3 and PO4 tests?
  15. This is an interesting setup from the latest APC contest. It did not fare very well, but it's still interesting ... http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/contest...howentry&id=156
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