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Edmonton Moderator
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About jvision

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  • Birthday 06/09/1979

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    I like the natural look, and love planted tanks.
    Other interests include movies, skiing and spending time with my wife, kids and friends. :)

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  1. I don't think callamanas host in snails. I'd remove your rabbits.
  2. Hello! I am Back Again!

    If you have a 65+gal tank, shoot me a PM. Most of my fish are breeding well and I can sell you some
  3. Hello! I am Back Again!

    I have a Tanganyikan community with Cyps, Paracyps, Xenotilapia and some Synos
  4. sump pump shut-off

    If you do a bit of research on the salt water forums, you'll find your answer. There are devices called Auto Top Off (ATO).
  5. Mid zone plants

    Rooting some Anubias or Java fern to some driftwood is a good way to get some midground range
  6. Lighting for 55 gallon planted tank

    Biodives did a good DIY article, the prices for the high quality lighting he shows can't be beat. If you're looking for something already manufactured, if you can find Finnex lights, they're pretty good for a decent price.
  7. Hi! But also Help!!!!

    I'm a huge proponent on water changes - 50% per week is my standard. Going by your tests, if we were just concerned with removing nitrates (which is normally why we change water), your current regime of tiny water changes is fine. However, *if there is* something leaching into your tank, the larger WCs are going to keep things safer. Just because you bought something at the LFS doesn't mean they're safe for your fish - the list is long of things sold by the LFS that should never go into a home aquarium. I'm not a huge fan of buying rocks from the LFS because it's often hard to know exactly what it is - the general rule is if you put a few drops of acid (muriatic or HCl seem to be the easiest to come by) and it bubbles, don't put it in your tank. If you're going for a specialized tank and know what your rock is, you can deviate from the rule, but pretty much stay away from "bubbly rocks" John is right, you aren't adding enough Prime if you're using a hose to fill for WCs. Dose for the WHOLE VOLUME of the tank, not the amount you are adding. I've been using a hose to fill directly from the tap for well over a decade, the only problem I've encountered (when dosing the correct amount of Prime) is when it's really cold out, and experiencing a lot of micro-bubbles - I believe it's rapid off-gassing of CO2, and it can kill your fish pretty quick. Just make sure to cause a lot of turbulence to allow the gas to escape to that atmosphere instead of coming out of solution in your tank. Plants are another thing that are often sold at the LFS that aren't even aquatic species. Furthermore, so many of the plants that are sold at the LFS are grown immersed, and all of the current growth will die when submerged for any length of time. Other hobbyists are probably your best source for healthy plants. This site's Buy/Sell forum has slowed down quite a bit for Edmonton due to a very active group on Facebook; either place you're going to get some good plants for excellent prices and you won't loose all of the original leaves as the plant converts to producing submergent growth. There are quite a few that will grow just fine without fancy light, substrate or fertilizer - the ones suggested by John as well as Anubias, Java Fern and sword plants are all good and pretty easy. Your brown algae is diatoms - very common in new set ups, and also seem to last a bit longer in tanks that have a silica substrate (playsand). People say Nerite snails love it, and I've seen Otocinclus catfish mow it down. Otos are common because they're small and cute; however, once they eat all the diatoms, they often starve. As is the case with any "scavenger" type fish, they don't eat poop, and need to be provided a proper diet. If you do provide it, they'll stay healthy and live longer. Most of our small fish have an annual cycle in the wild, but if cared for, they'll live for 3-5 years or longer. One of the best ways to make sure you don't leave the lights on too long (which John alluded to being a possible cause for algae) is to use a timer. For the easy plants we've listed, I'd only have the lights on when your office is open - 8-10hrs is plenty. I'm not sure what style of Hydor filter you have - does it hang on the tank, or is it a canister? If it's a canister, make sure the return causes some surface agitation - low O2 levels are easy to achieve in an aquarium, especially with dead fish and plants decomposing. Remember that even though live plants create O2 when the lights are on, they consume it when lights are off. Without proper gas exchange - which only occurs at the surface - your tank O2 levels can easily crash at night. Some people use a day/night timer that has lights on at daytime, then turns on a bubbler at night - I do this for some tanks that I run CO2 in when I can't shut off the CO2 supply at night. Don't give up on the tank. Once you get the knack, keeping a beautiful aquarium is pretty easy. And we're all here to help!
  8. I won't be home today, but I could supply a bit. I'm just off Whitemud and 50st. If you don't get any other response, try the Edmonton Freshwater group on FB..
  9. goldwing84

    If you're talking about the "Add Tag" button when writing a post, it's a way to add topic tags that people can search for. For example, if your post is something like "African Cichlid Tank" you can add tags of "mbuna" "peacocks" or "Rift Lake"... stuff like that.
  10. I was part of the "I heard Spixis eat Hydra" crowd until I had a bunch in a fry tank and actually watched one mow down a bunch of Hydra - it was a beautiful sight!!
  11. DIY stand and tank leveling question

    Is the tank already full? If not I've seen lots of people use 0.5 - 1" foam to help with any uneven stands. Put a piece of foam the same (or slightly larger) footprint under the tank and it'll fill the void caused by the warp.
  12. I used the T8 LEDs on an Aquaponics setup and they grew everything I wanted - even had peppers! I have them over a 75gal right now, but would count it as low light - I don't think they have the strength to penetrate the full depth of the tank.
  13. DIY LED powerful enough for high-tech tank

    I tried to order enough for just 1 or 2 lights, but the minimum on the parts I wanted was 25. I'm selling for T5HO for now
  14. Severums

    I know a guy out east that breeds wild plecos in water that's harder than ours - it's maddening! Domestic sevrums should be easy peasy, but you may have to fiddle a little with some of the wild strains. If you feed them well and keep the water clean, I'm sure you'll have success