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Ferts not in balance.


Joseph Elliott
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For quick reference here is Tom Barr's EI values (as found in the article mentioned by jvision)

General Dosing Guideline for High Light and well planted aquariums.

10- 20 Gallon Aquariums

+/- 1/8 tsp KNO3 (N) 3x a week

+/- 1/32 tsp KH2PO4 (P) 3x a week

+/- 1/32 tsp K2SO4 (K) 3x a week

+/- 1/32 tsp (2ml) Trace Elements 3x a week

50% weekly water change

20-40 Gallon Aquariums

+/- ¼ tsp KN03 3x a week

+/- 1/16 tsp KH2P04 3x a week

+/- 1/16 tsp K2S04 3x a week

+/- 1/16 tsp (5ml) Trace Elements 3x a week

50% weekly water change

40-60 Gallon Aquariums

+/- 1/2 tsp KN03 3x a week

+/- 1/8 tsp KH2P04 3x a week

+/- 1/8 tsp K2S04 3x a week

+/- 1/8 (10ml) Trace Elements 3x a week

50% weekly water change

60 – 80 Gallon Aquariums

+/- 3/4 tsp KN03 3x a week

+/- 3/16 tsp KH2P04 3x a week

+/- 1/4 tsp K2S04 3x a week

+/- ¼ tsp (15ml) Trace 3x a week

50% weekly water change

100 - 125 Gallon Aquarium

+/- 1 1/2 tsp KN03 3x a week

+/- ½ tsp KH2P04 3x a week

+/- ½ tsp K2S04 3x a week

+/- ½ tsp (30ml) Trace 3x a week

50% weekly water change

EI target ranges

CO2 range 20-30 ppm

NO3 range 5-30 ppm

K+ range 10-30 ppm

PO4 range 1.0-2.0 ppm

Fe 0.2-0.5ppm or higher

GH range 3-5 degrees ~ 50ppm or higher

KH range 3-5

And here are a couple of measurements I've found useful.

1 gram of water = 1 CC = 1 mL = 20 drops = 1/4 teaspoon

Edited by Joseph Elliott
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That's great information!

Be aware that drop size varies with what you are dropping from. At work our drop sizes vary from 10 to 60 drops per ml. so if you are measuring by drops and things aren't working that could be a variable to consider.

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  • 4 years later...

I have found it much easier to feed my plants since I started using the Estimative Index. The plants are fed ALL of what they need (as long as CO2 levels are OK), and algae growth is minimal. The problem with EI is that it overdoses all nutrients, which is VERY expensive using the commercial fertilizers. That's why most of us using EI dose with dry ferts.

Now, when I start to notice an algae problem, I look at CO2 first b/c the nutrients should be OK; however, if CO2 is good (I check by just adding a bit more. That usually does it. If algae persists, I look at nutrients), then I add some extra nutrient, depending on what algae is growing:

Spot Algae usually means P deficiency

BBA and BGA usually mean N deficiency

Hair algae is almost always CO2 deficiency

I'm just getting into the EI dailly dose routine and have just realized myself how crazy it is not to use Dry ferts. The one problem I am trying to deal with is the Hard water here in Airdrie. Out of the tap, ph is 8.1 KH is like 8 and GH is way crazy high. So for water changes, It would seem that I have no choice but to go with R/O which is kind of annoying. I don't dose KH2P04 because of the already high degree of GH/KH. I could change water with tap water IF I use Peat in my sump, but i really don't want the tea-colored water anymore. PPS-pro dosing system reduces the need for water changes but I don't think you would get the same type of growth with this system as you would with EI dosing. Anyone else in Calgary area have suggestions for water changes? Is half tap/half RO water an option on a weekly basis?

Thanks

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  • 11 months later...

Really glad to have read this and seeing that someone with a lot of experience is dumping dry straight into the tank because not knowing better this is what I've been doing. To dose K I'm using KCl 0-0-60. I really like how much you get out of so little I did thorough research before adding it because of the Cl but its chloride ions not chlorine molecules so it has no ill effects on the ecosystem at least not since I started four months ago.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I like to dilute my EI setup, and it works great, I put them in pump bottles. Here in Toronto, I have given these mixtures to a few people locally. It makes the process much easier to dose. I jus dose the macro together 3x week and micro 3x week, then sunday water change.

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Water pH also plays a critical role in plant health care, nutrient availability fluctuates with pH. Most essential nutrients are most available at a pH of around 6.5. Iron for example is less available for plants to uptake as pH increases and adding iron may not help reduce deficiency symptoms. Thus far I believe the easiest and lower maintenance way to maintain pH at optimum levels is to run a large CO₂ tank system with the solenoid plugged into a ph meter.

pHChart.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

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