Jump to content

W/C's ... the forgotten do-it-your-self-project


Smokey
 Share

Recommended Posts

W/C's ... the forgotten do-it-your-self-project.

Now, this may seem an unusual place for this topic... HOWEver - what is easier than ensuring the health and longivity of a fish;; Than simply doing a W/C.....

LOTS!!!! :o:o:o

How do you know when to do a W/C {???].

When the fish are floating at the top of the tank?/ :wacko:

When the fish are floating at the bottom of the tank?/ :blink:

OR

Monitor the chemistry of the aquariumn's water?/

I would like to hear members comments. :mellow:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Let me tell you a tale.

A customer brought back a black veil-tail angel. DEAD!

They had had the angel for 1 week, before it died. Warrenty[?].

[this is a very good customer]. so a replacement was a given.

HOWEVER!! ... I asked for a water sample. NO problem.

Tested the water:

NH3's = 0.1ppm [ hm]

NO2's - 0.2ppm [hmm]

NO3's = >110ppm!!!!!!!!!! .

Can you say ''Brown-Blood'' posioning ??.

Snce it was a community tank; and there was obviously full bio-logical bacteria present; I recommended:

W/C's - 50% every day for three days. Check for dead and/or decaying objects

in the tank/filter.

Start a log book. Record all test results; w/c's - %, feedings, types of food feed, and any unusual behaviours of the fish.

AND purchase a NO3 test kit. The forgotten test kit!!!! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At one point I used to monitor my nitrogen cycle diligently. I found I was generally doing water changes when my nitrates ~40 ppm. As I added more tanks I found myself checking these values less frequently. Whenever I had the time I would do a water change regardless of the nitrates. With four tanks now it seems as though I am changing water 2 or 3 times a week anyways.

That being said, I will still check my NH3, N02 and N03 if I have a death or a fish behaving oddly. I still have a full set of Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kits. How long are these things good for? It seems to me the date of manufacture is stamped on the front and they are good for 2-4 years after that? The nitrate test kit is the least discriminating of the bunch. It seems that anything over 40 ppm is red. The shades of red don't really appear all that different.

On this topic, I had recently purchased an aulonocara and a placidochromis from Petland at Crowfoot from a tank on sale. I added these fish against my better judgement as there was a dead fish in P. phenochilus tank. Two weeks later, two of the 3 fish were dead. I returned them to Petland with a sample of my water. They took it into the back room for ~10-15 minutes and then proceeded to tell me that I had ammonia in my water and give me a lecture on the possible reasons for this. I was stunned. I haven't had ammonia in my tanks for 4 years since I started my first tank. I had tested the water earlier that week when the first fish died and there was no ammonia or nitrite. Upon telling them this they reassured me that it was only a little bit and everything would be OK if I did a water change. The test kit was an AP vial though and the sample was a deep yellow. They gave me credit towards new fish anyways which seemed odd if they were so concerned about my water. I immediately tested it once again upon arriving home. No ammonia or nitrites. It seemed rather suspicious considering the ammonia test requires no time at all and they performed it in a little room in the back out of my sight. Then they proceeded to replace my loss anyways. This is why I am wondering if perhaps my test kits are out of date. All other fish are doing well however. I really should get myself a quarantine tank.

Do you test your customers water in front of them? I think this is the most appropriate way and it may promote the sale of test kits. Those are my thoughts. Thanks for reading. <_<

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nyasa: and members of AlbertAquarium:

First off- I belive/understand; that a NO3 test tells the tales of the aquarium's water's quality. [ final end of the Nitrongen cycle]. Too high and it is time for a w/c.

Second - A NO3 reading, exceeding 40 ppm is getting a little to ''thick'' for my liking. MPO!.

Some fish can handle a higher NO3 level... , but in the long run; why not just do a w/c.[?].

Water - fresh, conditioned water - is still the: best, least inexpensive and most benifical /effective ''operation'' any person can do for their aquarium. and [Time well spent - only a passing entity].

Actually; the fewer the tanks an individual has, the better the chance for the tank to become ""polluted''. [ quote - tomorrow I will do a w/c [??][!!]. okay.

A NO3 test lets a person know when it is time for the W/C. [ACTUALLY IT CAN TELL YOU ALOT ABOUT THE WATER IN THE TANK][ MORE 'BOUT THAT LATER].

When a tank is fully-cycled [8 weeks] and fully matured [six months] - the need for NH3, NO2, test.s become less necessary; unless something goes out-of-wack.[!!].

There are exceptons to any rule-of-thumb. Always know the conditions of your water. Better safe than sorry. :wacko:

There are ''3'' reasons for a death of a fish.

1st - water quality; aka - their water environment.

2nd - physical damage; aka - stress, mishandling; or beaten to a pulp.

3rd - disease! [sometimes not even noticable to an expierenced person.] Internal diseases are not noticable; and some fish, can harbor these little nasties without showing any signs of distress - [ usually they are young]; until it may be to late.

Test kits life. purcahse the freshist time/stamped kits. Most do have a shelf life. Most are of high quality. Some are more ''finely accurate'' than others[ and may cost a bit more]. All are reliable - once a person learns to interput the numbers

AND DO NOT BE AFRAID TO USE THEM!! keep a log of everything that goes on in your tank. [ geee's - another cost; a notebook and pencil.]. :lol::D

Can you say long-winded - [con't on next post]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote from Nyasa's post= ''Do you test your customers water in front of them? I think this is the most appropriate way and it may promote the sale of test kits.

Yes I do! the reason / to let my customers know exactely what is happening and why. I give them the ''booklet'' and let them watch the colour's develop. I explain why a color represents a particular reading. and what it means.

It also helps me to interpert the customers aquarium situation. So I can better help the person.

NO sence selling a fish to a dying aquarium!! MPE.

HOWEVER - a note of personal warning here!! Some persons may not be properly ''educated'' in the use of a test kit!!

After all picking one's nose with the same finger may lead to problems.

Hand creams, personal products, etc; may influence the results of a test kit's results.

AND these test kits do contain chemicals! [ can you say - lawsuit , if some ''uneducated'' individual comes down with a rash !!]. oh POOR ME! :lol::D:lol: :ph43r: They may be scared for life.

But, I wander from reality.

A quartien tank - the best piece of equipment any [dedicated] hobbiest can have.

We rate fish on a level of D1 to D4.

how-a-'but hobbiest??

Most people have the best of intensions.. and some do not realize the amount of ''work'' an aquarium requires. [ aka simple w/c,s]

After all; Fish are living creatures.

Well, a few of us belive so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Nyasa:

The Degree of Difficulty: indicated by the symbol D.

- the requirements of a particular fish.

- can also be related to the foods a fish requires.

D1 - Beginner's Fishes

The fish are generally ominivorous and have no specialized requirements.

A variety of flake foods are suitable.

D2 - For slightly more expierenced hobbyists.

Flake foods are suitable.

D3 - For advanced aquarists.

- In general flake foods are still recommended, but often need to be augmented with other types such as freeze-dried, food tablets and live foods.

The selection depending on the species.

D4 - Species recommended for aquatic epicures and experts.

- Included are fish with highly specialized diets; predators which require live foods, vegetarians which need algae and wilted lettuce and sensitive species such as Discus which present the dual problems of food and water quality.

The number indicating the Degree of Difficulty is often followed by letters which explane why a species has been assigned to class 4.

The following letters are used:

H = Herbivore

- Vegetarians which cannot be kept in a tank with live plants

Ch - Chemistry

- Requires water of the highest quality or needs particular water values.

C - Carivore

- Predators which cannot be kept in a tank with smaller fishes, though they may often accept tankmates of their own or differing species if of the same or larger size.

C also indicates the fish must be fed live foods and that a constant supply will be needed.

S = size

- The species needs a large tank with plenty of space for swimming.

When you purchase young fish you should know, in advance, the size it will attain as an adult.

[Reference, page 203, Aquarium Atlas, volume 1.]

examples:

Xiphophorus helleri / Swordtail = D:1

Potamotygon laticeps / Freshwater Stingray = D:4 [C]

Serrasalmus rhombeus / Spotted Piranha = D:4

Pelvicachromis pulcher / Purple Cichlid Kribensis = D:1

Tropheus morrii = D:4

Aulonocara jacobfreibereg = D:2

etc......

Plants also have a Degree of Difficulity classification.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nyasa; I have a complete record of all activity relating to my fish.

Some go back 15 years. Log Books.

I now use Excel format for recording the information.

ex:

Water test results; Tank water = date/NH3/NO2/NO3/pH/KH/GH/Temp

Water Changes; Date/ % W/C/amount/temp/time

General notes / Proceedure = notations about cleaning the tank/filters/fish behaviour/feeding, etc.

Breeding information -

I can refer back and see if and when I did maintance [ :wacko::wacko: ]

any unusual behaviour or points of interest that I deem noteworthy.

It is interesting to look back and see all the different species I have owned / kept / breed ... lost and why!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good topic Smokey. A constant thing I hear from my wife is ..... "didn't you just do that a few days ago" My response .. yep, and now I'm doing it again.

I've kept a log book from day 1. I know exactly when I performed my last water change, when the filters were last cleaned, when I purchased a new fish, when a female started holding, etc-etc-etc.

IMO water changes are the best thing one can do to keep their fish healthy. I perform a 50% water change every 5 days (on a relatively understocked overfiltered tank), sometimes more if I feel the need.

My goal is to keep the nitrates under 10 ppm, and although that may seem like overkill to some people, I can tell you that it is the single most important thing one can do for the overall health of their fish. My PH stays constant, as do all other water parameters, and my fish 'glow' from the constant supply of fresh water.

Overfiltration, massive weekly water changes, IMO there's nothing better you can do to promote growth, breeding, and overall healthy & colorful fish.

Here's a comment from a person I know that was posted on another forum, and is worth repeating here.

"A good friend of mine breeds F1 L. Calvus 'Black'. A notoriously slow growing, fussy fish to raise out as fry. For years, he struggled with those water changes. Desperately trying to clean his fry tanks of growth retarding waste, nitrate and hormone buildup.

But - the water changes seemed to be killing his baby fish......

What to do... What to do.......

-

Spend Money!

Yeah..... But, he looked at what Jack Wattley was doing with Discus. Then went in a completely unexpected direction.

-

Four - 200 gallon, plastic reservoirs. Two - 40 gallon, clear, fry 'tubs'. With each baby grow out tank, supported by a constant feed, balanced water flow system. A small diameter grate panel on the floor of each fry tank, permits passage of waste and uneaten food. But, keeps baby fish from draining out of the tank.

He 'dials-in' 100 gallons plus of water for feed into/thru each 40 gallon tub - DAILY. And, get this:

There Is NO Filtration! Just a 24 hour, continuous, constant flow of carefully treated and heated water through each 'tub'.

-

He doesn't lose any more baby fish - and those slow growers? Reach juvenile size faster than just about anyone I've heard of, that raises these comparatively delicate fish.

Water changes WORK man. You can do without ANY filtration in an aquarium - but you can NEVER do without those Water Changes!"

Edited by RD.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Hey Smokey, Would you be interested in sharing your excel format with me. I have been considering purchasing an Aquarium Management Software. My concern is the lack of technical support to manipulate the program to suite my needs. Also most seem to be from former Soviet Countries. :ph43r: I am and have been snoobing around looking at different sources, but maybe I need to slow down on figure out the actual requirements that suit my aquarium hobby....breeding, plant need,water parameters...etc.

The comment on the DIY drip system...go ahead if I can ever get it together and accomplish this I will forward pics to you. Last weekend I found a bottle with an IV drip attachment at Box Store LFS in Edmonton and they wanted 49.00/ bucks for it and it was empty too..... :D

Garhan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excel, used as a recording media. I am still in 98-2. Is this what your are referening to.

I have pages set up for :

Water - when I produce it, quanity, the paramters of each batch [numbers], and any modifications necessary to achieve a pH, KH, GH; Each batch is given a code number[ date, etc].

Stock - each fish is entered; when purchased, from whom, observerations through out its life, diet, M/F, spawning, etc.

Maintance on each tank: see pic

Feeding - type of food, amount, etc.

Water parameters on a tank - see pic.

Notes.

and for

Breeding

Fry

and the list goes on and on.

I Start a new page when more information is needed to be recorded [ entered].

Did I answer you question[??].

or do you need the excel program[??]. not that it can be copied and sent to you.

Smokey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...