[byte]

I am going to build LED light bars for my 60 and 90 gallon aquariums for night lights. I have a coralife 4x65 CF light that came with 4 LED moonlights installed in it and I really like the look of them at night.

Here is 16 blue LED lights (8mm) on my 60 gallon tank. They are just drilled into a wood stick, but I hope to find an aluminum bar to mount the lights into soon. I took a few pictures but they do not show the real brightness very well. This picture is way brighter than it appears to me.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1222186517/gallery_2943_239_81566.jpg

I will try 8 led lights on each tank, and also a few underneath to light the pH monitor and filter. The lights cost about $1 each (pre-wired with resistor) and a transformer is about $10 new.

Here are a few different LED lights. They are available in 9 different colors, many sizes, and some are even tri-color (red-green-blue). All LED bulbs are also waterproof, but I have never tried it. The bulbs run cool to touch and are very power efficient. They look like glass, but they are clear plastic so breaking is not a problem.
The top row all operate at 12 volt DC. They are easy to use for auto or home. The arrow shows where the resistor is installed.
The bottom bulb is a bare LED. It needs a resistor of the proper size to limit the voltage to the LED or they will burn out instantly. These run about 2 volts, but that varies by color.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1222186517/gallery_2943_240_59304.jpg

If you don't have good specs on the bulbs, they are hard to use. These bulbs have the specs needed right on the package :)
Forward Voltage=1.9 Volts
Diode forward current (mA)=20mA
These bulbs come with the numbers needed but some companies (RS) like to sell the bare bulbs, but without the much needed information.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1222186517/gallery_2943_240_201671.jpg

Now I will make a flashing red light to put in my truck dash. The LED will only flash when the truck is NOT running so it looks like there is a car alarm protecting the truck.

To figure out the resistor value for a bare bulb, use a wizard like http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

The resistor value must match the LED bulb and voltage you are using.
In this case for a LED (part number RL5-BR2020), the truck runs 13.4 volts (source voltage), Diode forward voltage = 7 volts, Diode forward currant= 20
Specs for this bulb are HERE: <a href="http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/br2020_specs.htm" target="_blank">http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/br2020_specs.htm</a>

Here is a picture of the assembled LED. The heat sink is a good idea to protect the bulb when soldering.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_57195.jpg

Here is the bulb and mounting bezels. To get the LED to flash with ignition off, wire the positive to 12 volt battery power, and the negative lead to +12 volt ignition power.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_37621.jpg

Now you know how to assemble a bare LED. If you buy the 12 volt pre-wired bulbs, they are easier to work with :)

This post has been edited by byte: 15 March 2009 - 07:16 PM

[catshanon]

Nice, I will build one after you complete yours and put the remaining instructions on the forum.... :thumbs:

[byte]

catshanon, on Mar 13 2009, 09:17 AM, said:

Nice, I will build one after you complete yours and put the remaining instructions on the forum.... :thumbs:

I am always looking for new ideas for materials to mount the LED bulbs into. If anyone has any ideas for long (48 inches) and thin (3/4 inch) strips to drill out holes for the bulbs. A strip of wood works, but then I have to find a way to hide the top part where all the wires are run. The best I have found so far is Canadian Tire sells aluminum strips (C-channel) to cover the edges of plywood. This still leaves the top open though.

This post has been edited by byte: 13 March 2009 - 08:36 AM

[Ishkabod]

byte, on Mar 13 2009, 09:35 AM, said:

catshanon, on Mar 13 2009, 09:17 AM, said:

Nice, I will build one after you complete yours and put the remaining instructions on the forum.... :thumbs:

I am always looking for new ideas for materials to mount the LED bulbs into. If anyone has any ideas for long (48 inches) and thin (3/4 inch) strips to drill out holes for the bulbs. A strip of wood works, but then I have to find a way to hide the top part where all the wires are run. The best I have found so far is Canadian Tire sells aluminum strips (C-channel) to cover the edges of plywood. This still leaves the top open though.

What about a nice curtain rod cut to fit. It might be hard to install the lights but it'd sure be allot nicer than plain wood.
Lisa

[byte]

Now I will build a set of moonlights for my 90 and 60 gallon.

Parts:

• 28 - blue 8mm LED pre-wired with resistor (13 volt) bought at <a href="http://www.plasmaled.com/" target="_blank">http://www.plasmaled.com/</a>
  
• 1 - Transformer (12 volt DC)
  
• 1 - 1/2 x 1/2 inch x 8 foot channel
  
• 1 - 1/2 x 1/2 inch x 8 foot angle (bought at Totem or Home Depot)
  
• 20 guage wire
  
• Heat shrink tubing (Active-Tech--Calgary or Edmonton)
  
• Pipe cleaners (great for holding lines or cables together)
  
• Solder

8 mm LED bulb
7000 mcd
465-470nm

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_70272.jpg

I drilled 5/16 holes into the channel and pushed in the bulbs. Pieces of heat shrink tubing (air line tubing would work) help hold the wires together. There are 8 LED bulbs on each 4 foot strip.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_29453.jpg

A few wires to hook together... If you hook up the wires in reverse, the lights simply will not work, but it doesn't burn them out.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_181781.jpg

I have soldered in a long wire to go to the transformer with heat shrink to protect it near the ends. The angle steel fits nice inside the channel and a few zip-ties hold it together.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_149569.jpg

Well you were not watching, I installed these wooden light strips under the stand.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_35302.jpg

One of these light bars will just rest on the top of the tank, so I used double sided tape to attach these angle irons to keep it from sliding off.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_180558.jpg

There are many options when it comes to transformers.

• Wall wort :) These are those annoying square transformers that come with almost every thing that plugs in to a wall. Cell phones, razors, kids toys, etc
  
• Computer power supply: If you are building a canopy and want 12 volt fans as well, this will have enough power to run both. Uses a lot more power than wall wort.
  
• Outdoor LED light sets (Noma) have a 12 volt transformer that also has a photo eye to shut the lights off during the day. Fairly expensive.
  
• On line stores that sell LED bulbs also have volt to 12 DC transformers for LED lighting. They also can be dimmed but then the cost ramps up fast.

Here is a photo of a few wall worts. The one with the silicon smeared on the back is the one I will use to power this setup. 1 transformer will light all 28 bulbs (about 600 mA or 0.5 amps).
If you use a bigger transformer than needed, it will use more electricity. A 15 amp transformer draws 15 amps even if you only use 1 amp.
YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THE TRANSFORMER PUTS OUT IN DC VOLTS... NOT AC VOLTS
You also need to test the voltage that comes out of the "wall wort" type transformer. The transformer that I will be using is rated for 9 volts DC at rated load. When checked with a multimeter, this transformer puts out about 13 volts with no load.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_14238.jpg

Finished...

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_148125.jpg

I will post a few pictures of the moon lights after dark :)

This post has been edited by byte: 16 March 2009 - 12:26 AM

[byte]

Some pictures of the LED lights at night.

90 gallon planted mbuna tank (the giant Vallisneria across the top blocks most of the light).

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_186792.jpg

60 gallon planted community tank.

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_130847.jpg

60g stand lights

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_193581.jpg

60g- fish

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_140229.jpg

Both tanks

http://AlbertaAquatica.com/uploads/1237014777/gallery_2943_240_85609.jpg

Fish watching should be 24/7 :smokey:

[byte]

catshanon, on Mar 13 2009, 09:17 AM, said:

Nice, I will build one after you complete yours and put the remaining instructions on the forum.... :thumbs:

I hope the instructions are clear enough to follow. Use the pre-wired lights for 12 volt DC and it is easy. If you have any questions just ask :rolleyes:

[byte]

Ishkabod, on Mar 13 2009, 11:38 AM, said:

byte, on Mar 13 2009, 09:35 AM, said:

catshanon, on Mar 13 2009, 09:17 AM, said:

Nice, I will build one after you complete yours and put the remaining instructions on the forum.... :thumbs:

I am always looking for new ideas for materials to mount the LED bulbs into. If anyone has any ideas for long (48 inches) and thin (3/4 inch) strips to drill out holes for the bulbs. A strip of wood works, but then I have to find a way to hide the top part where all the wires are run. The best I have found so far is Canadian Tire sells aluminum strips (C-channel) to cover the edges of plywood. This still leaves the top open though.

What about a nice curtain rod cut to fit. It might be hard to install the lights but it'd sure be allot nicer than plain wood.
Lisa

Thanks for the idea, but I found some metal strips at Totem, so lucky me didn't have to wander through the curtain rod section. :tongue: