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darkangel

Edmonton & Area Member
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Posts posted by darkangel

  1. A hybrid is a hybrid weather it be man made or natural, there is allways a chance of having fry.

    The question here is, will they survive. I was told that I would never successfully breed flowerhorns, and I had more fry than I could shake a stick at. Wait and see what happens Sue.

  2. Is your 120 a 4' tank? If so, it'll be difficult to grow some of the more light demanding carpet plants, even with T5HO because the tank is 24" deep. IME, the carpet plants got a bit leggy with T5HO - you might want to consider MH if your heart is set on carpet plants in that tank. Your other option is to set up a shallower tank (20" or less) to grow your beloved carpet plants.

    If you're wanting some of the more light-demanding stemp plants, you should be fine with 2 fixtures. Even with one fixture, you can grow quite a few plants. In my 120, I have a 2x54W T5HO fixture and I grow lots of Anubias, Java fern, Crypt. balansae and Val.

    It is 24" deep, so I guess I'll just have to avoid the carpet plants like you said. Thanks for the advice!

    My 72 is 24 inches deep and all I have is T-5 lights. I can grow carpet plants without any problems, but I also have 5 inches of substrate so technically that makes the tank 19 inches deep.

  3. From what you have posted, your tank is too young for neons and cardinals and is not completely cycled. Your betta could also be puting the run on them stressing them out. It don't take much to stress a neon or cardinal (years ago they used to say that if you walked by the tank and looked at them the wrong way they would die on you). Like rams they do best in a well established tank with a slightly lower ph. I have mine in a 6 year old planted tank with a ph of 5.5 to 6.0 and do weekly water changes of 50%. I run a small bag of peat in one filter and 5-6 almond leaves in the other as well as a few other old school (very old school) secrets.

  4. Sounds like a crash to me. Been there done that bought the T-shirt (a couple times). You had mentioned that you did your medicating. What are you medicating for? Most medications will destroy benificial bacteria and cause your tank to go through a mini cycle, that would explain your higher than normal readings. Scrap the meds, add some media from an established filter, stop feeding for a day or two and 20 to 25% water change daily until it is under control.

  5. When plants have enought CO2 (and other nutrients), your tank will become saturated with O2 - that's right, 100% O2. So, like Ruadh said, high CO2 doesn't mean low O2.

    This is so true, I run pressurized Co2 at 6bbls per sec 24/7, 3 watts per gal of light for 12 hrs a day, & ferts. My tank is o2 saturated all the time and pearls every day within 4 hrs of the lights being on.

  6. I should be OK, but the cardinals may work on your galaxies - I've seen a school of cards go after healthy fry after picking off a weak one.

    My school of cardinals started out at 80 and is now 100+. The school of galaxies started out at 10 and is now over 30, might be a war for the galaxies that they can't win.

    I'd worry about the loaches and shrimp.

    I'm not too worried about the shrimp. The whole idea of them was they reproduce and serve as food for the galaxies to reproduce. The cardinals are doing just fine with reproduction on NLS grow & brine shrimp.

    I might have to leave it at 2 tanks running.

  7. I am thinking of shutting down all my tanks except one. I would like to put my galaxy rasbora's & green shrimp into my planted tank with cardinals and neons. The largest fish in this tank are 8 assorted cories, 3 LF BN plecs, 4 SAE's, and a group of zebra loaches(5). The tank is 72 gal heavily planted with filtration for 300+ gal. Will this work or do I need to get rid of some fish as well.

  8. The powerhead on a sponge would be fine (that's what I have in my planted shrimp/snail tank). The Fluval 303 could work, too. Maybe stick a T in the output to split it up a bit and slow things down a bit - or just dial back the valves.

    I was thinking the fluval. I want to try and T it off and put 2 spraybars on it so I can have one at the substrate pointed up and one just below the surface pointed accross and down like I have in my 72. The powerhead sounds good too, I just don't want to put it all together to find out I don't like it and tear it all apart again.

  9. My 10 gal heavily planted shrimp & Galaxy rasbora tank is being up graded to a 29 gal.

    Tank will be heavily planted (80 to90%) 4x24 watt T-5's & Co2. My options for filters are a fluval 303 canister or 2x A/C 50 but with the Co2 the A/C's will cause too much surface movement and the Co2 will be useless. The only other spare filter I have is an FX5, a little overkill for a 29 gal. I could also use a powerhead on a large sponge filter, hide it behind the plants and connect a spraybar to the outlet on the powerhead. Any other suggestions are welcome.

  10. I was just cleaning up some of the loose leaves in my planted tank, and when I gave the H. micranthimoides a little shake I saw a wack of little guys dart into the anubius nana. They looked silvery/black and about a 1/4 inch long. The tank occupants are 80+ cardinals, 6 black neons, 8 harlequins, 4 sae's, 5 zebra loaches, 2 bn plecs, 1pr blue rams, 1 pr albino kribs, 6 assorted cories, and started out with 15 habrosus cories but counted 27 at the front of the tank the other morning. Tank is 72 gal grossly over planted (95%) sufficient filtration for 300+ gal.

    Water parimeters are amonia-0 nitrite-0 nitrate-25ppm ph is between 5.0 & 6.0

    What could the mystery babies be?

  11. My guess would be that your light, Co2, and fetilizer balance is out of wack. You can try lights on for 12 to 13 hours, up your Co2 to 6 bbls per sec, and dry ferts 3 times a week (EI method). It worked for me, and all I get now is a little dust algae on the glass every couple weeks.

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