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  1. Yesterday
  2. Tank Mates For Blue Dolphin Cichlids

    I have in my 125 gallons tank, with my blue dolphin, Frontosa, yellow labs, blue ahli ( fryeri), some time they go after each other but never fight.My fish are between 3 and 7"
  3. Last week
  4. Disaster

    Thanks so much for posting this. I read this thread yesterday and went home to my goldfish at the top of the tank. After doing a water change the night before and all fish were normal, I did forget to plug the filter back in for about 30 min plus the time it was off while above the water line when empty/filling so at least an hour.. Nitrates through the roof. I will be sure to be more mindful of my timing on this or clean the filter at the same time to prevent so much new waste from entering the water again.
  5. Disaster

    Biodives thanks for the input it’s definitely something to consider moving forward. While I can see how that could have contributed to the situation, the fact that I already had one casualty and multiple fish in distress before I turned the filter back on tells me that my mistake happened earlier. I spoke with someone with the city this morning and was informed that aside from a slightly higher mineral content and (due to the colder temperatures causing the chlorine to take longer to dissipate) slightly higher chlorine consentration, that there should be no other differences in the water supplied from the city. So I have concluded that, despite my usual diligence, I must have forgotten to treat the incoming water. I didn’t want to admit that this was a possibility at first but I think that it’s the most logical explanation. As embarrassing as that is I have to look on the bright side. I didn’t wipe out all the fish. And now I have room in the tank for new fish. Haha fml
  6. Disaster

    Biodives I was unaware that aerobic bacteria can switch to sulfate/nitrate reduction and swap oxygen for sulfates/nitrates as a terminal electron acceptor. Could you please post a link to this because I have never come across this before. It should be scintillating read. Thank you Andrew
  7. Ideas for plants on rocks or driftwood

    Cool. My last advice is don't worry about things so much. Decide on a course of action based off some advice and research and just do it. There are several ways to do things right in this hobby. I find people complicate a lot of things online that you will learn through experience over time. It's about finding a way that works for you and achieves what your trying to achieve. Your first planted tank probably won't look like much because you won't know what a certain plant in *your* setup is going to do or look like until you actually do it. In my opinion the best aquascaper's are just people who have setup 30 + tanks over the years and grown out a tonne of different species over time and learned from experience how to have success through a lot of failure. Even just buying the best equipment money can buy will not lead you to success with plants or breeding, necessarily. It definitely does not hurt though. If your using high light with or without pressurized co2, but especially if you have co2 and high light, make sure you go heavy on a floating plant. (like 50 % of the tank surface) That one thing will help you a tonne when you make any kind of mistakes on keeping the tank balanced/healthy and looking great.
  8. Ideas for plants on rocks or driftwood

    All your info is much appreciated. I've quickly learned there is lots to know in this hobby and getting it right the first time makes things much more enjoyable...and that everyone has different ideas. I'll look at trying the root tabs you mentioned for my plants rooted in fine gravel. And yes, it is very small <2mm. There was good selection at a store in Calgary if you are willing to pay the pet store price.
  9. Ideas for plants on rocks or driftwood

    Should be fine. It would be easier to plant in sand with root tabs for the root feeders to help them get going. Something like seachem root tabs etc. I dose dry ferts (salts) on top of that, but usually only when I see a specific deficiency on new growth. I personally use soil capped with play sand myself which is much cheaper but also has some other challenges as the tank ages. You won't want to be moving heavy root feeders like swords after planting them in a dirted tank with livestock in the tank anyways. Expect a lot of work if you want to re-scape your dirted tank. So research it first before you decide on that. Gravel would work fine but would be harder to initially plant. If you use gravel try to find a gravel that is 2-6mm which is difficult in Edmonton anyways not sure about Calgary. This will help in not harming your plants well planting especially stem plants like rotala rotundifolia that have very fragile stems. If you want to spend money and get easier results eco-complete(High cec with goodies added in)/baked and ammonia sprayed clay loam err I mean ADA aquasoil (the very best dirt money can buy that isn't messy uncapped + goodies). Seachem's Flourite (high cec) or tropica's plant substrate are all solid choices. For price and ease of use and looks I would always go for eco-complete personally. I use play sand from home depot myself. 7 $ for a 50 lbs bag. If you use sand I recommend getting a healthy population of Malaysian trumpet snails for reasons you can research. I personally prefer something like premier potting soil from Canadian tire if you try that route but sand alone with root tabs will work perfectly fine as well. Lots of people would recommend against the perlite in that brand of soil but I find it beneficial in my tanks that are over 2 years old for far to many reasons to list here. If you use dirt don't add more than a inch of it with no more than 2 inches of sand cap and make sure to sift out most of the larger pieces of wood that are in the soil if you use a soil with peat added in like I do. I also like to sprinkle/mix in csm+b and iron chelate with the dirt before I cap it with sand to help out the plants initially and long term as the sand cap keeps your water column ferts from getting to the dirt (and the roots of root feeders) and doesn't have any cation exchange capacity to suck any of it up. Iron deficiency's are common in tanks without high cec substrates since a lot of plants at a normal alberta tap water ph won't be able to uptake the iron from the water very well at all, even if it's available, hence why I add it to my soils via root tabs long term or iron chelate initially as my ph usually hovers around 7.6-8.2 depending on the Edmonton season and how much I decide to change water. Root feeders generally like to uptake I find from the roots not the water column as much. Sorry for the book it's just hard to recommend things to new people sometimes for me because I remember when I started out, I took advice that was good, but left out certain details that created problems down the road that I had a harder time fixing after the fact hah. Hard lessons learned in a nutshell.
  10. Ideas for plants on rocks or driftwood

    Can the plants you suggested be planted in a fine gravel substrate or do they need a proper plant substrate/soil? I wasn't planning to use plant growing substrate, maybe I should?
  11. Ideas for plants on rocks or driftwood

    Java fern. I'd recommend a floating plant like hornwort/frogbit/water lettuce etc.. as well. These plants will help shade your low light plant's like anubias, java fern, and java moss and also help you get a handle for what your tank needs for nutrients/water changes by quickly sucking up any excess ammonia or nitrates from livestock or possible overdosing of fertilizers. Also since they grow very fast unlike the plants you are planning, will help greatly with out competing algae for any nutrients that your plants don't need, creating balance faster. Which is a common problem with that trio of plants and new tank owners. I highly recommend one fast growing stem plant like hygrophila corymbosa or pogostemon erectus and a solid root feeder like any type of amazon swords/Cryptocoryns/vallisneria.
  12. Softened Water

    Thanks for clarifying the cichlid preferences I should have mentioned that.
  13. Disaster

    Since you have been doing this twice a week for 3 years I think it more plausible that this unusual mishap is linked to the unusual event of forgetting to switch heater and pump back on. I would say there is zero chance that the little temperature dip is an issue but leaving the pump off for an hour will leave the filter in an anaerobic state for a good amount of time and when bacteria don't have oxygen they start to use nitrate, sulfate etc instead and create a whole soup of anaerobic products including hydrogen sulfide. If the filter is small relative to the tank volume I would not have expected the consequences to be that dramatic but IMO releasing the anaerobic soup into your tank when you switched the pump back on is the most likely cause for your disaster. In future, redirect the pump outlet into a large bucket and flush out a few filter volumes worth of water when you switch the pump back on. After that it should be good to operate again.
  14. Softened Water

    It is only/mostly the Rift Lake cichlids in Africa that like hard water. All South American cichlids and many/most West African cichlids like soft water. Water softeners replace calcium and magnesium with whatever counterions are on your softener's resin. But since the softened water is meant for human consumption it seems a safe assumption that your fish will be fine with it.
  15. I'm just planning my first aquarium and am mostly interested in plants that will attach to rocks or driftwood. Other than Anubias and Java moss that I have read about, any other suggestions.
  16. Softened Water

    Thanks for the info. I will be having plants so good to know my water softener may actually help and it's not a cichlid tank. Will start testing pH as soon as I get everything set up and then make some decisions from there.
  17. Disaster

    I agree with Geleen on this one. Occams Razor should probably be used and I think that forgetting to add de-chlorinator with a large water change could be the best explanation. Hydrogen sulfide production in anaerobic zones can happen, but if you regularly disturb your substrate while doing your twice-weekly water changes you can probably rule that out. Sorry about the disaster, but it sounds like your taking great care of your fish. We all forget simple things on occasion and it can lead to sad outcomes. The exception does not prove the rule ;-)
  18. New Aquarist Hello

    Welcome to the board.
  19. Softened Water

    That depends on what kind of tank your setting up, If you have live plants a slightly softer water is going to be beneficial. If your setting up a cichlid or fish only live bearer tank than your not going to want to reduce the hardness of the water. Either way the only major difference that could do your livestock harm is if the water coming out of the system has a major difference in ph than the water out of the one tap you have that is untreated and you use that tap for a water change after using the other source of water, If there is significant difference use what your live stock/ plants will benefit from most. cichlid's and live bearers love hard water. a lot of asian species like soft water. Keep in mind most of the fish regardless of region in your local stores will be captive bred and most likely used to whatever the tap water conditions are. So if you do reduce your ph be sure to drip acclimate your livestock appropriately so you don't stress them. My advice in a nutshell is test your water out of both sources for ph at the very least. Than make your choice depending on what kind of fish your stocking. Most people with planted tanks would love a system that could give them 6.8-7.0 ph water right out of the tap, because that range is optimal for plant growth and nutrient uptake. Captive bred fish for the most part should if given time to adapt be fine in most water conditions between 6.5-8.0 ph, a lot of fish won't breed in water if the ph/tds isn't optimal for the species but they will do just fine otherwise.
  20. Disaster

    Did you forget the dechlorinator perhaps. Also some fishes from lake tang do not like large water changes.
  21. Softened Water

    Hi everyone, I am just setting up my first tank and have a question that seems really basic but haven't found a good answer in my research. All the taps in my house have water softened by the system in our basement. The cold water tap in the kitchen is the only unsoften source of water. Does it matter if I use softened water or should I look to use the water as is arrives from the City (SE Calgary).
  22. New Aquarist Hello

    Hello everyone, I am new to the hobby and just setting up my first aquarium so I will be posting around the forum for some ideas. 30 gal tank, fine gravel substrate, with drift wood and rocks. Planning to put some live plants that will root on rocks and wood. Still undecided on fish but thinking some sort of small tetra school and maybe something else. Interested in your ideas.
  23. Disaster

    So I’m having trouble making sense of what happened. Yesterday I did a 50% water change on my 75 gal tanganyikan tank, as I do twice a week. The tank is well established and has been running for nearly three years. I finished filling the tank and left to pickup my son at preschool. I came home to realize that I had forgotten to turn the heater and filter back on. I was gone less than an hour and the air stone was on the whole time. The temp was at 76 degrees F ( only slightly cooler than I keep it at 78-79 degrees). I turned on the heater and filter and thought everything was ok. It was then that I noticed one of my julidichromis transcriptus was dead and my synodontis multipuncatus was floating vertically. The syno would swim around a bit but it looked like it was having swim bladder issues and it would always end up in this vertical position. I immediately tested the water and started to do another 60 to 70% water change. The tests didn’t show anything out of the ordinary. Ph 7.8 , ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and nitrate about 5-10 ppm. I also tested the water out of the tap and there were zeros for all and ph 7.8. As I was siphoning I noticed that some of my synodontis petricolas were starting to display the same symptoms as my multipuncatus was and some more of the Julie’s weren’t looking so hot. Over the next couple of hours I lost a total of four petricolas, three julidichromis’, and the multipuncatus. After that I had to leave and pick my wife up from work. I fully expected more casualties when I returned but there were no more. My remaining two petricolas were swimming around as usuall. The three remaining julies were not looking great but they were alive. My altolamprologus were all seemingly fine they were hiding in the rocks as they do during every water change but their colours and patterns did not appear as if they were too stressed. I have 3 yellow calvus, 1 black calvus and 1 gold head compressiceps. So far this morning all the remaining fish look healthy and are not behaving abnormally. I also have a 150 gal with peacocks and haps that’s due for its water change but I’m hesitant to do it yet until I find out what’s going on. I have heard of the city adding something to the water at certain times that could be detrimental but I’ve never had this happen before. I’m in silver springs in NW Calgary. Ive also considered that it could’ve been trapped gasses in the substrate but I have Malaysian trumpet snails and I regularly stir up the sand to avoid that sort of situation. Also the fact that only half of the fish in the tank seemed to be affected makes me think that this is not the case. Can anyone offer an explanation? I’m at a loss.
  24. Earlier
  25. I hope to see the same but unfortunately there aren't any hydra right now. But perhaps that means they are doing their job.
  26. I was part of the "I heard Spixis eat Hydra" crowd until I had a bunch in a fry tank and actually watched one mow down a bunch of Hydra - it was a beautiful sight!!
  27. They are indeed hydra. If your tank had a strong light they would turn green. I get them whenever I feed baby brine shrimp and they always disappear when I stop feeding baby brine shrimp. I've never seen a negative consequence of having them but have added some Spixy snails to a fry grow-out tank to deal with excess food and they are supposed to eat hydra as well. If you have them in enormous amounts then find out what is feeding them. If it's just the few along the bottom of the tank as in the picture I'd enjoy having them. Note: I found that Edmonton tap water kills them. Maybe I should bottle tap water and sell is as hydraBgone elixer and get rich
  28. I've seen people have success with traps to rid themselves of planaria, I'll include a link to a good video with a well made trap and some options. Not sure about hydra with the traps though if you can't use no planaria or fenbendazole I think your best bet might be to add some small fish like tetras or endlers in to eat them up and use a trap to help get the planaria. From the photo I'd say that is probably hydra but I'm no expert. I often see many different little organisms sprout up in my shrimp tanks and as long as it isn't one of those 2 I'm happy about it because that means the tank is doing great usually. Nothing like great live food culturing itself, but I'll be damned if I could identify all the different types of scuds and whatever else is out there etc. I'll second ckmullin's recommendation for the dog dewormer, I have used it in the past with no ill effect on shrimp or snails. Plenty of content out there about using fenbendazole to rid a tank of aggressive pests. If you don't want to risk it good luck with the other methods. here is the trap Here is another link to Mark's shrimp tanks. He has a tonne of video on this topic as well, since hydra and planaria are so deadly to his livestock. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCl4DEcd7cdV5Yj9RS0MB1mQ
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