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jewels

Southern Alberta Member
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Posts posted by jewels

  1. .

    he also indicates that water changes (the subject of this thread) is not necessary to be a good hobbyist. it actually takes good husbandry to get to that point.

    I have been known to go a month or more without waterchanges in planted tanks. There are repercussions.

    There is no solution in dilution. With only water evaping out the system, every thing else is left behind.

    Over time there are measurable escalations.

    • most obviously - tannins. Water clarity decreases
    • water hardens. 900 ppm is highest I have observed. A 4.5 fold increase from the tap.
    • Ph rises - relates to the effects of Ph on ammonia toxicity

  2. From the Hagen website

    http://ca-en.hagen.com/Water-Gardening/Watercare/Additives---Supplements/PT866

    "Laguna Plant Grow is specifically formulated to provide many benefits to pond plants. Plant Grow contains chelated micro-nutrients which promote plant growth and help keep plants strong and vigorous. It is ideal for all pond plants, including floating varieties. Plant Grow does not contain phosphate or nitrate and is safe for fish."

    This product is essentialy a trace.

    With our watersupply a weekly WC may provide nearly the same constituents.

  3. I would rather a few spider webs than a house full of bugs :thumbs:

    That mini humidifier is a right nifty gadget. I like it !

    Eight hours a day should be OK for light. Less would still work.

    As it sits now the plants are CO2 deprived. You could start adding it now and see wild stuff happen'n.

    Try a open top water bottle with sugar and yeast. You will see more growth in a week than you saw in the last month.

    Even a wimpy air pump piping in fresh air would yield improvement.

    Nice scape'

    Have Fun !!

  4. I have seen all sizes of shrimp crawling all over my clown pl*co, and it seems to not even notice them. Of course perhaps he was overstuffed from previously eating all their other siblings - who knows?

    I would not trust any fish with a shrimp I wasn't willing to lose. Even decidedly vegetarian Ameca can't resist.

  5. - there are probably a few people around that could get you more than enough of what you want and need.

    , I've checked this thread and PMed people who have posted.

    There was a day when plants were 50¢ a stem... .

    I agree private is your best bet.

    50¢ a stem? Oh my, I hope the price has gone down.

    That is a full sized Glad garbage bag. Sometimes I can give it away - usually it gets composted.

    th_P1150271.jpg

  6. , this statement is blatantly untrue.

    I needed to log back on to correct this. Not to go back and edit out what I had posted; but rather self audit my behavior. My flagrant vocabulary was not productive, nor kind, or helpfull.

    FishTBoy, I regret being condescending. I do have piles of measurements revealing contributing factors to light delivery failure. I will share them in a new thread.

    Dragon, hopefully you'll have all access to the info you need right here in this thread. I apologise for taking it off track.

    Glass tops are nice because it gives you flexibilty. Like you said the light source is easy. With a secure glass top you have a multitude of lighting choices., , , and none of your investments end up getting "bumped" in to the tank. :o

  7. Cannot speak for them; although I can share this ,,,

    Here is a unencumbered measurement I made . It is showing 10.5 PAR

    screen002.jpg

    With the 4mm tempered glass in place atop the mugs, in order to reduce the value whatsoever I had to shift the light souce about 25 degrees off of perpendicular.

    screen001.jpg

    Still measured 10 PAR.

  8. Normally you don't have a glass a top on the tank if you have a planted or reef tank as it blocks out too much light. ,,,,,,,,,, You can make a screen mesh in that case.

    .

    Sorry,

    I am not one who seeks confrontation, but, this statement is blatantly untrue.

  9. If you are brave a glass cutting tool is less than five bucks. Scrap glass is - well, scrap priced. Less than five bucks.

    There are glass hinges available. You could go with two full width panes.

    You could go full width and stop 2-3 inches from the back. That will give space for gear and feeding.

    Getting a good fit is inconsequential. You could cut to fit/nestle into the rim if you chose. I just cut 1/2 inch over full width and plop it on. You may need to do this if you are de-rimming the tank.

    There are two way to re-silicone. One is superficial; you are just cleaning up the appearance. This involves leaving the joints intact.

    If you are resealing the joints you must first dismantle the entire tank into its seperate panes. On a smaller ( read thinner glass ) tank you stand a great chance of breaking a pane during dismantling.

    Once you have the five panes seperated then you are left with the ingredients to build your own tank. This reassembly may require a bottom pan. If the tank is not leaking, I don't dismantle it.

    Don't get me wrong

    - if your into it I say go for it!

    As for mounting the light - I do not bother. You have a nice new glass top.

    Sit the light on there.

  10. th_P1200117.jpg

    I think all but the true aquatics would work. I sure there are exceptions.

    True aquatics meaning: naja, vals, sag and so forth.

    Rotala does well for me as does marsilea.

    two cents = 2 tips

    • A plant can will deplete the available CO2 around the stomata very quickly. This is why plants will stall or stop growing under saran wrap. Idealy you need to circulate the humid air.
    • Talk to your plants! A deep breathe exhaled into a one gallon container will raise up the CO2 concentaration about 2000ppm
      ( with these lungs anyhow )

    Have fun & share photo's !

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