Crystal

Post a picture of it again, please, so we can see how it matured. :drool:

Have you over wintered the lilies and reeds before?

your timing is a little off... About 2 hours before you posted I cut most of the Parrots feather plant down to catch my warmer water fish - platies, guppies, and loaches. The pond at its best looked very similar to the original photos, just a few more lilly blooms and parrot feather plant had grown to cover 3/4 the pond (some of those stems were 6 feet long! :shock: ).

But here are a few current photos...

My first attempt at photobucket , this is a learning experience, please be patient... many photos were compressed pretty small by accident. If you have any advice about photobucket and linking pictures to here, please let me know...

Overview of the pond

http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ondoverview.jpg

here is the very much trimmed parrots feather that once dominated my pond

http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...rotsfeather.jpg

Water lilly, leaves are going yellow from frosty temperatures we had

http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...rrent=lilly.jpg

My solar fountain! it's awesome, only works when direct sunlight hits 75%+ of it

http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...rrent=lilly.jpg

My calla lilly, nice red blooms gone, but each time it finishes blooming, it sprouts another bud column... The cold killed the last one before it got big

http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...nt=callatop.jpg

'Guardian heron' keeps all herons, and other predatory birds away. Looks great too.

http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ardianheron.jpg

As for overwintering lillies, no, I am a bit unsure of how to do it, but was planning on trimming all greenery off, wrapping in damp papertowel and putting in the cool(18-20C) toolroom over winter, is this right?

As for reeds, i have Cattails, I believe their roots freeze solid over winter in ditches anyhow. I was going to put one in the garage (no insulation/heater) and hope for the best, the other I was planning on giving the same treatment as the lily and see which lived in spring. Any advice would be useful and appreciated. *nudgenudge*

Ok, I seem unable to find a short summary on aquarium chemistry, so I have researched and made my own summary. Many sites are contradictory and it can get confusing, and these are some of the most common questions I see asked. Please feel free to comment, correct, or add to it.

Aquarium Chemistry

PH:

Ph is a measure of Acidity and alkalinity. The ph scale has a range of 1-14, with 1 being acidic, 7 neutral, 14 basic. Lemon juice has a ph of 2.3. Toothpaste has a ph of 9.9. Changing ph from 8 to 7 is 10 times more acidic. Different species of fish have different ph requirements. If you are going to change your ph, do it slowly or you could kill your fish. Ph swings are very hard on fish. Stability is generally more important than changing ph by half a point. Eg. A fish that prefers water with 6.5 – 7.1 could live in water with ph of 7.5, as long as there are no swings. There are a few fish species require that the ph be perfect though. Whenever possible leave well enough alone. It is often easier to buy fish that match your water.

Raise ph: You also need a buffer to prevent the ph from falling to its original point.

Material: Ph level: (also depends on amount added)

Crushed Oystershell - 7.4-7.6 (slowly raises ph+KH)

Crushed coral - 7.2-7.6 (slowly raises ph+KH)

Limestone, seashells - 7.3-7.6 (slowly raises ph+KH)

Dolomite chips

Chemical Additives off lfs shelf - varies with product + amount

Lower ph: much more extensive work than raising it, as you must remove buffering to prevent ph from rising back up to the original point.

Material: (ending ph depends on amount of material and buffering ability of the water)

RO, distilled water, or water from a tap water purifier - lacks buffering ions and salts – mix with tap water. Note: pure Ro water is very unstable as the KH can no longer buffer the pH effectively. Adding the salt to the water brings the KH/pH balance back.

driftwood

Peat (can be difficult for beginners)

Co2 injection

Hardness:

There are two kinds.

General Hardness (GH) sometimes referred to as Total Hardness

Carbonate hardness (KH) is the measure of bicarbonate and carbonate ions in the water. This is the buffer – a measure of how much acid can be added before ph is affected.

Hardness (and therefore buffering ions) can affect ph. The harder the water, the more buffering ions present, which means a higher ph. Less buffering ions, means lower a ph.

Buffering:

Dissolved minerals that help resist changes in ph. Provides stability for the ph.

Measured in KH 75-100mg/L is fine for most tanks, and 100-200mg/L is ok for a higher ph.

Increase Buffering:

Stick baking soda in the oven for 1hr at 350F will turn it into pure Sodium Bicarbonate. Add 1 tsp per 10 gallons, check levels ½ hour later, add it slowly to avoid stressing fish. Ensure there is very little/no Ammonia or it will become much more toxic!!!

Weekly water changes reintroduce natural buffering minerals/salts to replace the depleted ones.

Decrease Buffering:

Water changes with water lacking or low in buffering minerals/salts: RO or distilled water will work.

Phosphate:

detritus (dirt, waste, dead plant matter, fish food, etc) is the source of phosphates. These can bind with buffering ions and reduce the buffering zone and ph.

Note: Phosphate also acts as a binding buffer, sudden removal of most phosphates will release the buffering ions and the ph can rise suddenly.

Old tank syndrome is sometimes attributed to the slow rise of phosphates over time. When phosphates bind with too many buffering ions, it can cause the ph in the tank to drop.

Nitrogen cycle: ammonia --> nitrite --> nitrate

The establishment of the nitrogen cycle is what is happening when you cycle your tank. Ammonia and nitrites are very toxic to fish and in a new aquarium there are few bacteria to convert them into a less harmful substance. Nitrate is less toxic, but slowly builds in the aquarium over time. This is why the weekly water changes are so important. When your tank is cycled, there are a crew of bacteria to convert Ammonia into Nitrite and Nitrite into Nitrate.

(was a nice chart I made showing the nitrogen cycle - but it is in word doc - will try to convert to pdf later and add it in)

The bacteria live in the gravel, on the plants, and in the filter. When you replace your filter or if you wash your filter with tap water the chlorine will kill these bacteria, forcing the cycle to start over again.

Use water changes to remove ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Nitrate levels will slowly rise over time, plants and algae may use some. In an aquarium nitrates in the water will produce nitric acid, which in turn will reduce the pH if there isn’t enough buffering capacity to neutralize the effect.

Suggested ways to cycle your tank:

Use some gravel from an established tank

Put filter media into an existing tank for a few days before the new tank is set up

Use NutraFin Cycle or other additives to jump start the cycle (adds beneficial bacteria)

Use water from an established tank (up to 50% tank)

In order for the nitrogen cycle to really start working it needs something to work with – Ammonia (fish waste).

After the tank has been running for at least 1 week (24-48hrs if very impatient) you can add a couple of fish to the tank, 2-3 small hardy fish for the first 5-7 days, then you can add several more, and few fish several days after that. You will be rewarded for your patience. Too many fish too fast will overload your filter and can kill your fish. Test the water daily during cycling for ph, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. A small spike may be noted in ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, ensure it drops back down to 0 or near it. The cycling process can take 2-8 weeks.

Sources:

*http://www.aquahobby.com/articles/e_adjusting_pH.php

http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=aquariumwaterhardness

http://aquaweb.pair.com/forums/archives/lo....cgi?read=30543

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Freshwater-Aqua...akeing-soda.htm

http://www.firsttankguide.net/ph.php

http://www.myaquariumclub.com/naturally-ra...d-kh-18982.html

The pond is still up, but I removed the water hycinth today, as the 1.4 temp had them slightly brown. Surprisingly, off the ground on the deck the plants are much less affected by the near freezing temps that have occurred recently - whereas my flower bed really needs help now. The pond will not be up much longer, 1-3 weeks tops.

These ponds are very durable (for thin plastic) and leach no harmful chemicals, just remember an old blanket under it to avoid punctures. Cheap and temperary for those who are not certain they are up for pond care - or like me, not quite time for the permanent pond - next year I will get it.

I have pulled the few platies, loaches, and the guppy - found numerous babies in the plants I cut back.

My mom thinks the cutest thing is that when we put those fish in there, they were so scared - straight out of feeder tank (you saw how crowded they were...) and then there were no other fish in sight. They swam so hard, got to the other side of the 8 foot pool and had to stop to rest. Now, they never stop, my mom says she gets to watch as I wade in the cold water with a net to catch elusive goldfish and rosyreds....

Trading the pleco is hard because of distance to the nearest pet store, and mainly because its my Mother's favorite fish - the only one she bought me that lived.

My old goldfish were about 10 inches (the moor was 7 inches) long before they died and both the goldfish (black moor and a comet) and the pleco peacefully lived in the same tank. The pleco is currently living with small tetras, barbs, guppies, platies, and mystery snails. There is never a problem, unless I leave 1-2 day old fry in the breeding trap (I only made that mistake once). I have pulled dead fish in the tank (age) that the pleco had never even touched. I don't believe the pleco being preditory isn't a issue in this case, it is very spoilt and well fed. if it becomes a problem, I will have to do something to correct it.

As for the clown loaches, now that I know how high a temp they would require (many sites lie), I will not purchase them.

I would not buy a fish to have it unhappy or in a wrong tank setup/conditions.

Thanks to all for their comments! :thumbs:

I think the issue will be with the clown loach's. IME, they like a much higher temp, 27-30 and need a much larger tank, 90-120gal to be happy. Also with them, while 3 is better than 1, 5 is better than 3, and 7 better than 5, and so forth.

Optimally, the 13" pleco should be in a 90-120gal tank as well, butI sure he will appreciate any extra water he is given.

I know the pleco should have a larger tank, but a 65 is as big as my room will allow. The person at the pet store had told me 4 inches max...

As for the clown loaches, I was curious, but their required temp is too high for the temp I had planned, and if they need more than 3 my tank would be too small or the bioload too heavy. I believe I will have to forego them.

Thanks for all the help. You are all so helpful.

The coldwater/tropical issue is one I have heard, but my research shows that plecos are fine in 20 water, being from South America and Central America in flowing streams which vary from 18-24 degrees. As for goldfish, koi definately prefer cooler water, less than 20. But my comets in the pond get sluggish and slow when water drops below 16-17 degrees, and seem happy in 19-22.

I have heard many say that there is a cold/tropical issue, but can someone explain it to me?

The 65 gallon will have a aquaclear 110 (110-500gph) on it, overfiltering as I know the goldfish will have a heavy bioload.

I am soon getting a 65 gallon tank :thumbs: .

I plan to upgrade my 13 inch common pleco out of my current 55g tank and into the bigger one. I would love to add 2-3 clown loaches, but I have no experience with clown loaches. Would the pleco and clowns coexist? I plan to add several caves and hidey holes.

Other occupants will include some barbs (gold and rosy), but will mainly overwinter 3-5 of my pond goldfish (comets, each 3-5 inches long).

My first tank was a 10g and had two goldfish (I know, way too small, put it down to inexperience) and the same pleco. This pleco rarely moves during the day and has had no problems with any fish. Some plecos are said to pick on goldfish, but my pleco never bothered my goldfish or anything else.

Would the clown loaches be ok with the pleco, goldfish, and barbs?

I have several breeding traps that I previously used for my guppies. I am not sure how well it would for danios though, danios are stream fish and require room to swim to get enough oxygen. The oddest thing about these danios is that they are shy and easily spooked, I am not sure how they would fair in a small space with several others. I will try it though, I will just do it on a weekend when I can keep my eye on them in case of problems.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will have to try them.

We had a huge storm roll though a day after I put them in the breeding tank, I removed them a day and a half later (yesterday) because I suspected eggs.

How large would their eggs be? I would think the eggs/fry would be very small, as the leopard danios are almost twice the size of the Orange hatchet danios. The leopard danio fry were very tiny and even when you knew they were there it was hard to spot them.

I have 7 Chela dadiburjori which I am trying to breed (common name: orange hatchetfish, orange hatchet danio, dadio, etc). I have previously breed (by accident) leopard danios, but I am looking for suggestions for breeding these hard to find beauties. Most sites claim that they are hard to breed, but I have found these also say they are frail, while I find them hardier than most of my fish.

I am feeding them up with frozen+flake foods. A common suggestion is to seperate male from female, but there is VERY little difference between them, 1-2 I know are female and 1 I know is male, the rest are about average. The fish are about 1 yr old. I plan to put them in a seperate breeding tank to lay the eggs, removing the parents in 2-3 days or when I see eggs. I have a seperate breeding tank ready with mesh to seperate them from the eggs, with plants both anchored and floating, water is a bit cooler with an airstone for some current. My Ph is about 7.4 (near impossible to change due to natural buffering), temp 20C, ammonia/nitrate/nitrite 0. The tank receives early morning light.

Any other advice/suggestions? I can use all the help I can get as this is my first intentional breeding of egglayers.

Here are a few pictures of my makeshift pond. An 8 foot wide, 18" deep kiddie pool which sits on our deck. I will be making a permanant above ground pond late next year when we redo our garage.

The fish are mostly rescued feeders who had awesome colors (50-60), a couple of shubunkin, as well as a few platies and a guppy who refuse to give up freedom. sorry for the fuzzy pictures, none of the fish were eager for pictures and refused to sit still.

The plants are parrots feather (covers 1/4 of the pond), cattail, lillies, hornwart, water lettuce, water hyacinth, and some others.

The filter is actually for a 400-500G aquarium and we just rigged it. The feeder ring is actually one of those water noodles, kept from drifting by being tied to the side with fishing line and a paperclip.

Wish the pictures could do the fish justice, these are some of the prettiest goldfish I have ever seen in a store.

Pool: $50. Plants: $75. Fish: $25. Filter: $120 (on sale for $80) = Awesome pond within a college student's budget

:welcome: Welcome!

I used to breed guppies. Mine seemed to prefer water about 21-22 degrees. My ph was 7.5. As for the lights, do you have a hood with lights? They would accept that.

A few tricks to get them to mate:

Weekly water change of 25%, replace with cooler water (mine was 19-20). or try slightly warmer water.

You don't mention if you have plants. Guppies ussually don't care, but it helps the females relax and stay stressfree when pregnant.

Rearrange the tank ornaments and plants.

Supplement feeding, flake is what mine basically got. But they love fozen daphnia and brine shrimp - avoid blood worms though, I have had friends who had guppies die after feeding guppies dried bloodworms.

If you are feeling adventurous (or desperate) go to the lfs and get a guppy of different coloration. (I had some red fancy longtail crosses that wouldn't stop chasing the females even to eat - I had to stock seven females to one male).

Good luck!

I live in Athabasca, and if you want I still have a few of my red fancy cross males, if you want some just pm me.

The tank sits where a fair bit of day light hits it, usually indirectly. I did have hair grass that was doing pretty well and my java moss thinks its a bad weed, it triples in size every month or so.

Thank you all for your suggestions.

I just have two 18 inch aquarium grow-light florescents on my 55 gallon. Not too sure how you measure light, and I would have to look at home for the wattage.

Hi, I know very little about plants.

I am after some suggestions for Hardy, short (2-3 inch) plants. I am looking for some that will form a fairly dense carpet in hte front of my tank, and can tolerate a couple of mystery snails and shrimp crawling over it, and small tetras spawning in it.

My ph varies between 6.5-7.8 from the tap depending on the season, I try to keep it at about 7-7.5. No added CO2, fertilizer is usually liquid form, though I can get the small pellets.

I was thinking maybe micro sword or riccia, but know next to nothing about them.

Any suggestions?

Hello!

I have enjoyed aquariums for almost 10yrs and I am happy to have finally a nearby fish club! :thumbs:

I have previously bred guppies. I have a number of snails that I am hoping to breed (brigs, red ramshorn, spixi). I also have a pond (well, if you call a 300 gallon kids swimming pool a pond! ).

Tanks: 55 gallon peaceful community, 10 gallon rearing/quarentine/other tank, 300 gallon pond.

Happy to be here!

Although, I have never managed come across the Jungle parasite guard, I have tried using several other chemicals with varied success. I have never used a lot of salt due to some of my more sensitive fish.

I have the most success using a chemical called coppersafe to treat ich, and usually add 1/2 dose of livebearer to help the fish with the scratching. Coppersafe is the only thing ever seems to work on neon tetras (The local pet shops around here seem to have a variety of ich which is resistant to malachite green).

Caution: If you have any kind of invertibrates (snails, shrimp, frogs, etc) many chemicals used to treat ich and other diseases/illnesses will kill them. If you use chemicals remove the active carbon from the filter.

When you get new fish, try to quarantine them for at least 2 weeks before adding to the main aquarium.

Sometimes ich can come in with water changes at certain times of the year. I haven't had a problem with this since I put 1 penny in the gravel for every 10 gallons of water (not sure if it really works, but it seems to).

I hope your fish get better soon.

Like it says, any info on Anentome helena? Snail eating snail I understand, but I only see it in Euro forums. Not imported into North America? Hope I'm wrong.

I have found them on Aquabid.com, but they are scarce still.

Here is some information on the Anentome Helena.

Most of this information comes second-hand from several different sites, but

primarily from a seller on aquabid whom was generous with his information.

Name:

The Anentome Helena, commonly called Killersnail or Assassin snail.

Appearance:

Trumpet shaped shell with yellow and black coloring - very pretty. Youngsters said to have a browner

appearance which grows into the yellow/black.

Food:

These guys will eat algae, fish food, but their favorite food is snails. They

will not eat others of their species, or any of the larger mystery/cana snails.

They love pond snail, ramshorn (not sure about the mini ones), and Malasian

Trumpet snails (MTS), and other species as long as the Anentome Helena is

bigger than the snail in question even the victim's trapdoor (if they have

one) may not save it. Depending on size of the snails in question, they eat 1

snail every 1-2 days (some sites report as many as 2-3 per day and other report

1-2 per week). If no snails are available, a high protein diet is recommended.

Compatibility:

No snail-eating fish (loach, chiclid, etc) or other snail-eating-snail species.

Has been reported to have been kept with shrimp, snail-friendly fish, and other

larger snails with no issues.

Breeding:

Anentome Helena are not hermaphrodites (require both a male and a female).

They apparently do not lay eggs if they do not eat snails (or other high

protein foods). When they are breeding, they lay one aquatic egg a week (Note: this

has been contradicted in one other site, when ideal conditions were met and

about a hundred eggs appeared from 3 females in a month - only 1 out of 50

tanks with the same conditions saw this occur).

Size:

Max size 2-2.5 cm

Origin:

They are native to several different locations in Thailand (most common, but unconfirmed)

(and unverified rumors of other locations in Europe, Indonesia, SE Asia)

Tank size:

Min 5 gallon

Lifespan:

1-3 years

Their tolerance for copper and other chemicals/metals is unverified

- treat them like Pomacea Bridgesii for water chemistry.