jet_ran

Can' go wrong with the Fluvals or the Eheims (in my opinion, I am sold on these 2 brands). They both cost more. You get what you pay for. I have been running the Fluval FX5 and the Eheim 2028 Professional II in my 180 gal for quite a few years with no problems. They are both silent running in my opinion. Excellent water quality as well. If you are not in a hurry to get the filters why not do more research on them. Check out www.petsandponds for pricing. Big Als usually have good year end Boxing Day deals on the Eheims

Hey everyone been browsing for awhile so this is my into as well

I have had a couple plants in my 45 gal freshwater for awhile nothing that needed a co2 or significant lighting. I'm making the switch to probably a DIY co2 and now looking for some lighting options.

Before I spend the $200 plus that is what i saw at Big Al's today just looking for some advice. I think i should need in the 90 watt range if it is still planned out that way but really just looking for some recommendations that are cost effective that I can purchase. I currently have a black hood with a light that sits on top a plexi glass piece in the middle. So I am also looking for a new lid I assume and i guess that would be a glass top or something now adays. Any help would be great. Thanks.

Check out these websites if u have the time------> www.aquatic-eden.com and www.socaquascapers.com. Hope u will find them helpful and good luck

Hi. Check out this site. It helped me alot. www.aquatic-eden.com

So I just recently picked up my filters for my 180, and now I have to start wondering about the planting game. I've noticed some pretty clever set ups when its comes to starting a planted tank and I'm not exactly sure where to start, but I want to ensure I have everything from the get go before I start this bad boy up. My main question is when it comes to co2 and what I should be looking for, I'm wondering if a DIY system using two or three pop bottles might be my cheapest method of going about this, or would buying an actual co2 system pay for itself in time saving measures and in cost. The tank itself will be housing my bichir eels and a large swimmer, but I really want to run a fairly heavily planted tank. Also when it comes to actually buying a co2 system, where do I even start? This whole thing eludes me :P. (Also on a side note, what substrate would be best used for this tank, I've noticed some people using miracle grow and then putting a nice sand substrate over it and that looked really classy and nice, and would work great as my eels need a sandy or glass bottom.)

Any help is great help

I have decided to go with an FX-5 maybe 2 on my 240, But would like to try and plumb it into the overflows as the intake and have the output plumbed to a spraybar. I was thinking of filling the overflows with bio-balls and puting a piece of sponge on top for a pre-filter before the water goes into the filter. Can this or will it work, or am I asking for trouble. Tank stock list (I'm hoping I can get them, trying for all wild) 6 X Altum angels, 8 X Red hook silver dollars, 4 X Red streak gold severums, 12 X laser orange cories, and a few plecos to be decided on later.

Hi. I used one of those devices on a 30 gal. In my opinion, the vac is more suited for a bigger tank as the rate of suction (if there is such a word, lol) is too great for a small tank. Use the extra money for something else . Hope this helps......

Maybe he forgot to add the dechlorinator or the sudden change in temperature between the tap water and the temperature in the fish tank could be the factor. I always age my water with a heater in the container. Hope the tips helps. Sorry for the loss

I spent 5 days in Calgary with my mom and left my husband to care for all the fish during my absence. He phoned me up a few days ago to tell me we lost several fish from a colony we keep (total of 16 died when all was said and done) and a couple from another tank. He tested all water perameters and found them to be within the correct range and was baffled. The next day he got thinking about what the two tanks that lost fish had in common. Then he remembered he bought a new rubber hose to better service our needs in the fish room. He did water changes to both these tanks using the new hose to refill the tanks.

Could this be the culprit? Is there something to be said about spending the big bucks and buying a Python hose from the fish store?

We got to thinking...we have been heavily into fish for 1.5 years now and have always used an old rubber hose to service the tanks. We have never before had a massive dye off before now.

Could a new hose contain contaminants that olders hoses have already washed out?

Any insight would be appreciated.

In my FX5, I put the prefilter rings at the bottom tray with the Fluval fine filter pad on top of the rings. On the top two trays I put the Biomax media. I clean the filter every 2 to 3 months depending on how dirty it gets as I also use the Eheim Pro II in my 180. Seems to work great.

The Fluval water polishing pad is for removing really fine particles and it is recommeded that u should replace it after a week of use.

I got my 250 Gallon, and along with it got two new Fluval FX5 filters. I've been searching on the net for Media suggestions/placement, and have really come up with little to no definitive answers. I also just picked up a new FX5 for my 120 gallon, so I'm in a hurry to get these things cycling.

On monster fish keepers, they have a thread on it, but it ends up being very contridictory in the end. They start off by saying to use "dish scrubbies" (those plastic woven dish scrubbers), which i'm sure are great for an aquariest on a budget, but Bio max should be a lot better.

I'm thinking something along the lines of bio max in the bottom two trays, and in the third, a small layer of pre-filter rings, and then the blue polishing pad at the top. (I heard the white fine polishing pads for the FX5 are crap and require a lot of maintenance due to clogging).

What does everyone run in theirs? Any suggestions??

Thanks

FishyFishy!

I got my 250 Gallon, and along with it got two new Fluval FX5 filters. I've been searching on the net for Media suggestions/placement, and have really come up with little to no definitive answers. I also just picked up a new FX5 for my 120 gallon, so I'm in a hurry to get these things cycling.

On monster fish keepers, they have a thread on it, but it ends up being very contridictory in the end. They start off by saying to use "dish scrubbies" (those plastic woven dish scrubbers), which i'm sure are great for an aquariest on a budget, but Bio max should be a lot better.

I'm thinking something along the lines of bio max in the bottom two trays, and in the third, a small layer of pre-filter rings, and then the blue polishing pad at the top. (I heard the white fine polishing pads for the FX5 are crap and require a lot of maintenance due to clogging).

What does everyone run in theirs? Any suggestions??

Thanks

FishyFishy!

hi. are you overfeeding? did u check phosphate level? too much sun light or leaving light on for longer than 8-10hrs per day? water changes? hope some of these questions helps? i know, it doesn't specifically answer your question with regards to which of those equipment is a better algae cleaning tool

My Bristlenose pleco's are starting to suck at keeping my glass free of algae, not sure if they are lazy or scared to come out. What do you guys prefer, a scraper or the mag-float. Right now I am using the scraper but I am not to impressed with the results. Lets hear some pros and cons of each method.

I would go with the Fluval E300 or the Eheim Jagers. Can't go wrong with them. Check it out. Maybe go online and get some reviews or feedbacks first. They are a little pricey but I highly recommend them. I would go with 2 heaters just in case one heater fails. Have fun with your new tank

just wondering about some ideas for heating my new tank.. it has a ray in it, so i would like to not burn her. i was looking at a couple or three 300w stealth heaters.. the tank doesnt have a sump, other wise that would be where it would all go. so any of you ray guys have any recommendations on heating me new tank? thanks

colby

I have been running pressurized Co2 in my large tank for over a year. I cannot believe I waited so long before switching over from a DIY setup. Yes it can be somewhat pricey to get the equipment initially but it is well worth it.

Now I am looked at swapping out my DIY Co2 in my upstairs (35G) tank. I am looking around for a 5lb tank and the required regulators etc. So far, I have found the Milwaukee regulator with solenoid, needle valve and bubble counter from Mops.ca for $131 which is by far the best price I can find. I have ordered from mops before and have always had good service / products.

Anyone know of a better price for a similar setup?

http://www.mops.ca/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/sk...4b4e+1259341654 $131

http://www.jlaquatics.com/info/156/CO2+Equipment.html from Jand L but higher price and you still need to add a bubble counter.

http://www.bigalsonline.ca/BigAlsCA/ctl366...tssolenoidvalve $150

Ebay is hit and miss, there are good deals IF you look for them everyday.

I have a 'bid' in for a 5lb tank for $35 US and $10 shipping. I am pretty sure I won't beat that price for a new tank.

See if can find them at a place that sells welding supplies

hihihi, if u r still stocking your tank, may i suggest some clown loaches, cherry and gold barbs, and yes, those ranbowfishes (the boesemanis) will definitely add some color to your tank. Good luck and hope to c some pics soon.....:-)

Hi everyone. I joined the forum a months ago and I finally would like to send my greetings to every member. I like this site as everyone is helpful. To the admins : keep up the good work.

I started in the hobby about 2 years ago and u can say that I am addicted to it. I currently have 2 tanks, a 180g and a 75g. Wished I have more room. In the 180g, I have a 20inch redtailed arowana, an 8inch tiger datnoid, 8 clown loaches (3 - 7 inch), a 5 inch gold nugget pleco that hardly grows( not to mention lazy), and an 8inch regular pleco. In the 75gal, I have some giant danios, gold and albino tiger barbs, rosy and red glass barbs, blue and boesemans rainbows, spotted corys, kribs, a bristlenose pleco and a sriped raphael catfish.

Till next time, take care and keep on posting......

Well I used 2 caps of Prime with the water change this time and everyone behaved normal so I guess it has to be the chlorine. I have never had an issue with the smaller tank but I guess the increased amount of water must make a difference. I figured 20% of a 33 gallon would make the same difference as 20% of the 135 gallon. Guess I need to buy some more Prime.

Hi. I recently bought the Fluval E300 heater. Can anyone pls tell me if it is a fully submersible heater? Thx.

Fluval E300 Advanced Electronic Heater

Innovative electronic heater for fresh and saltwater aquariums

Advanced aquarium heater detects abnormal or non-optimal conditions

Heater microprocessor monitors and displays aquarium water temperature The most technologically advanced submersible aquarium heaters available today. Fluval E Series heaters use an advanced digital microprocessor to continuously monitor and display aquarium water temperature. Internal thermal sensor continuously monitors aquarium water temperature for greater accuracy and reliability. Innovative color-coded temperature alert feature changes LCD screen color if aquarium water temperature varies from the pre-set temperature (Green = Safe Zone, Red = High Temperature Alert, Blue = Low Temperature Alert). Easy-to-use adjustment lever allows precision temperature settings in 0.5° increments and integrated heater guard offers advanced protection for fish and invertebrates. For fresh and saltwater aquariums. Features: Electronic Technology: Electronic monitoring system, thermal sensor, and LCD temperature display Precise Temperature Setting: With the easy to use adjustment lever, the temperature can be precisely set in 0.5° increments. Advanced Safety: The integrated fish guard offers advanced protection. Fish and invertebrates cannot come into direct contact with the heater core. The heater is protected against shocks from large fish. Mounting Bracket: The heater easily clips on or off of the slim line mounting bracket or can be vertically adjusted for precise placement. The included adapter provides the option of side glass mounting when traditional rear glass mounting is not possible.

300 watts

for aquariums up to 100 gallons

14" long

Thanks very much for your help.

Hi. I recently bought the Fluval E300 heater. Can anyone pls tell me if it is a fully submersible heater? Thx.