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Nyasa

Calgary & Area Member
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Posts posted by Nyasa

  1. Thanks for the reply RD,

    I believe Cochrane now receives some of its water from Calgary. I don't think they have the capacity any longer to meet Cochrane's demands. Either way the water is probably not treated with chloramine. It seems I had a bit of a bump in my ammonia and nitrites that quickly resolved after a second water change two days later. This would lead me to think that maybe I undertreated my tap water and the chlorine knocked out some of my biological filter. How would overdosing with Safe cause a spike in ammonia?

    I appreciate your insight and experience with this product. I actually read the rather lengthy thread you contributed to on monsterfishkeepers as well. Great information. I am going to look into how my water in Cochrane is treated more closely. I may be switching back to good old sodium thiosulfate. Can you recommend a quality chlorine test kit?

  2. Hey Neil,

    I am curious what your experience with Seachem Safe has been.

    I started using a water conditioner years ago as I have more tanks now and having buckets of water around the house dechlorinating is not something my wife approves of. I have been using Prime for many years and have been very happy with this product. However recently considered trying the Seachem product Safe as I have a couple larger tanks and felt this would be more cost effective in the long term.

    I tried this product the other night when doing a water change on my 125 gallon tank. I changed about 40-50 gallons of water. With the Prime I would add 0.5 to 0.7 mL for a 5 gallon bucket. With the Safe it is so concentrated I opted to add it directly to the aquarium. I decided to add 1/2 a tsp which should treat 100 gallons of water as I was adding to whole tank volume. I added this prior to adding water.

    A couple of days later I notice the water is cloudy and there is a dead fish. I test my water and discover my NH3/NH4+ is 0.25-0.5 ppm. My nitrites are 0.25-0.5 ppm and my nitrates are ~10 ppm. I don't routinely test my nitrogen cycle but haven't had NH3/NH4+ or N02 anytime in the last couple years. The tank was cycled and has been up and running for 5 years.

    The confounding factor is that I also decided to treat a black beard algae problem that I have been battling. Just received all these chemicals in a recent mail order. I had read that double dosing with Flourish Excel kills bba.

    Now I am not sure if the Seachem Prime treatment or the Flourish Excel caused the spike in ammonia and nitrite. I doubt it was the single dead fish. Did I undertreat with Seachem Prime? Should I have used 3/4 teaspoon? Or did the 25 capfuls of Flourish Excel factor in? I treated a smaller tank with twice the recommend treatment of Flourish Excel post water change using Prime and had no spike in ammonia or nitrites.

    I am a little reluctant now to the try the Safe again. I did a 40 gallon water change with Prime after discovering the ammonia and nitrite spike.

    Has anyone else had a similar experience using Seachem Safe and/or Flourish Excel?

  3. My house is exceptionally hot today. Lots of south facing windows and no air conditioning. Came home to house temperature of 31C this evening and my tanks were 32C. Fish appear to be fine.

    Due for weekly water changes so I figured I would help bring tank temperature down by using cooler water to try and get them down to 26C. How should I best do this? Or will this sudden drop stress them more than the current temperature they are at?

    I'm using buckets and watering the plants outdoors with the discard. About to refill now. Should I start with water of ~30 C or use water more like 20C and bring the temperature down quicker? I'm thinking slower gradual changes is better, but I may not get it cool enough. Any thoughts or experience with this would be appreciated.

    Thanks, David.

  4. Hey there,

    I bought a polypterus delhezi a few months ago. I was originally worried that he wasn't getting much to eat as he was hanging out at the top of my tank and rather lethargic. I would float frozen directly in front of him which he would peck at before it sank.

    About 3 months later he has grown from 4" to 7" and is getting thicker. He now actively swims around the bottom and feasts on NLS cichlid pellets that get missed by my cichlids. He is a voracious eater and very active. I believe he has eaten many of my julies' fry as well. I am no longer worried. It seems he has hit his growth spurt and hasn't quit...

    I keep him in my 120 gallon with my 2 frontosa, 2 cytocara moorii, baenschi peacock, leleupi pair and julies. I filter with a Fluval FX5 and do 40% water change every week. I realize he may soon eat my julies and my leleupi but I am fascinated by this fish.

    It sounds to me that your fish is well fed and doing well. Perhaps moving him to a larger tank will boost his growth.

  5. Blue dolphins (cytocara moorii) can get quite large. You could start out with a group of 4-6 juvies but eventually you will likely only want to keep a pair in a 90 gallon tank. I have a pair in my 5' 120 gallon tank with my frontosa. The male is ~ 7" and the female is about 5". They are beautiful fish.

    You could keep them with most Malawi haplochromines that aren't too large or aggressive. They also compliment yellow fish nicely. I keep an Aulonocara baenschi in this tank. Yellow labs (Labidochromis caeruleus) would also go nicely with them.

  6. I think that you will have better success achieving a specific pH if you add baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to your water when doing your water changes.

    I assume that you have a pH test kit. A little playing around with baking soda and your tap water and you should be able to find a consistent formula to achieve the pH you want.

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