Jayba

Do they get transparent? Or merely yellowing? I would think iron or too much potassium. But start with the iron and see if it perks up

Steps

- Divide the tank in half with a black piece of Plexiglas with a 1 inch hole in it.(sonewhere around center)

- vacuum clean the side that won't be the blacked out side. Then net out daphnia

- Black out the one side of the tank 3 sides plus the top

- place bright light over non blacked out side. The daphnia are attracted to the light. Then vacuum the blacked out side and remove the center divider. Done

Henry is one of the smartest fish nerds around. Too bad he won't be as accessable. I would think he is going to concentrate on ponds and water recovery.

Yes keep it up for another at least another week. Lots of O2 at the higher temperature, and salt will help with respiration.

Jay

This is another post I made----》

If you fully understand how ich lives, then it is easy to understand how to kill it. Ich is a parasite, which requires a host to live. Fish are the host.

Ich has three life stages. The first stage is the trophont stage, this is the feeding and growth stage of ich. It embeds on your fish, and essentially breaks down the cells around it and absorbs them. The fish's natural immune defenses will protect the trophont by encasing it with thickened skin and slime coat. It will grow until it reaches roughly the size and appearance of a grain of salt. At which time it sheds it's cilia, drops off of the fish, finds a home in the substrate and develops an outer shell. This shell is virtually impenetrable, and therefore ich is still protected through the second stage of life.

The second stage is the Tomont stage in which it lays in the substrate and begins multiplying. It will divide as much as 2000 times inside it's protective shell, but does not feed during this stage. After it has divided the hundreds of new ich parasites essentially "hatch" and sprout cilia. The free swimmers are called theronts. They swim around trying to find a host (fish). If they find one they attach and begin the trophont stage all over again. During this free swimming stage, ich is vulnerable to medication and other treatments. Furthermore it will die quickly if it does not find a host.

Time frames for each stage are extremely dependant on temperature. Higher temperatures speed up the life cycle dramatically. It may take ich several weeks to go through all three stages in a cool pond, while at 80*f + it will go through all stages in a matter of a few days to a week.

One of the reasons so many myths, surround this parasite is that treatment is mis-understood by many people.

Treatment must be maintained, for whatever time it takes to catch all parasites in the free swimming stage. It is vitally important to understand how ich lives in order to treat it properly and completely irradicate it.

Many recommended treatments are either not maintained for long enough time, or not a surefire treatment. There are many methods that might kill it, but can't be guaranteed. A method that isn't completely sure may be a big helper in the battle, but should not be used as a complete treatment IMO. Treatment must be maintained long enough to ensure that all ich is dead, it only takes one free swimmer to find a host and completely infect a tank again. Above 82* F, 3 days is actually enough time after the last trophont falls off of your fish. I always recommend, as do many people, extending treatment a minimum of one week after all signs of ich are gone. That way if you happened to miss seeing one on the fish, you still get the job done. 2 weeks would be extreme overkill, but then some people are happier with extreme overkill.

At the first sign of ich in a tank, you should begin treatment. Mark your calendar, if you don?t want to go through treatment repeatedly. ICH is fully protected while on your fish, and while in the substrate. It is vulnerable to treatment only during the few hours of it?s free swimming stage while it locates a host. With this in mind, when the ich spots are gone from your fish, it needs to be understood that you have not yet begun to eliminate ich. Treatment should begin immediately to prevent further infestation on the fish, But It will do nothing to the parasites already on your fish. Furthermore if you stop treatment after the fish look better, you are shooting yourself in the foot, and inevitably will need to treat again at some future point. Do it right the first time and put this little bug behind you.

I wouldn't shop based on price too much. Good work to a certain extent is worth the extra little bit.

Heck I'll build you a cheap tank, but I hope you have good insurance....so how big you want it? I'll keep it +\- 3 cm for oops factor. You wanting things square? Cause that'll slow things up quite a bit.....

:-)

That's awesome! I had a Barilius Canarensis do almost the same thing. He jumped out and ended up stuck behind the tank on the rack, between the 1 inch styrofrom the rack shelf and the wall. I used a stick to flick him along for a couple feet and a couple minutes. Tossed him back in the tank covered in dryer lint and missing a ton of scales. Didn't seem to phase him after a couple days. Tough SOB.

I saw one on kijiji just last night. It's in Red Deer though. The price may be worth the trip.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-pet-accessories/red-deer/aquarium/1028723875?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

At least he made the point to say they cannot live in those little containers.

Just got the bug. But having rare plecos breed will always make me smile.

Have yet to breed Cory's but soon enough. I will get to it when work stops interfering with my life...

I have heard of guys using bleach. It should evaporate out after a couple days and sterilize everything. Never actually tried it though.

Does anyone know if there is an online store in Canada that sells Cloram-X? I would love to get some. thx.

Spencer Jack sells it. Cichlaholic.com

Kinda like the sun, just a billion times smaller. Just don't look right at the lamps for an extended period of time and it'll all be OK.

The EMF given off by your cell phone or bedside alarm clock is a bigger hazard than a light bandwidth over a tank.

Fairdeal brought them in some time ago...

Just wonder how much it goes for the pricethe group of small german peacock out there? I left after lunch just wonder?

The reality is most heaters made for the aquarium industry are crap. Buy a controller, or roll the dice.

I am a Jager fan,they are thermally shatter resistant and have some Fluval (mirrored) ones. But controllers make even crap heaters like store brands better. As they take the cheap contacts out of the equation.

Reytube those are stunning!

Is that a red bay snook? Do you have some better pictures? Kinda hard to see.

I was quite surprised at the prices up until about 2:30. Next go round I am rounding up all my bristlenose and Val's. Would have made a killing. I came home with a dozen wild x domestic rams. A lace plant and some corydora napoensis. Just need to figure out who vender 173 was as I want more of them....

I have done one filter at the end and another mat as a divider. You just need to lengthen the lift tube to shoot into the far champer. You could use 2 lift tubes for more water flow. This will make it easier to regulate tempurature.

I use 30 but I would think both would work. You would only need 1 tube. The water being sent into the other section would cause a higher water pressure on one side and cause it to migrate back. THe concern I have is fry getting sacked up and shot over to the other side.

I may bring some juvi L066,L134 and some Melontenia Parva (a CARES program fish) Some apistogramma baenashi and whatever else I can easily round up.

And yup another joined in and have a total of 80 eggs collected, if this batch goes as well as the first batch I'm going to run out of room to house fry and all I have left is a 15 long.

Wish I had your problems! Haha! That's awesome!

Well, here is why I hopped on the bandwagon. I was running a total of 4 4 foot 2 lamp t5ho lamps and 5 36 inch 2 lamp t5ho 3 footers.

822 watts x10 hrs a day=8220 watts÷1000= 8.22 Kwh per day x 365 days x $.09/Kwh= $270 a year. Lamp replacements alone if done anually (which is half as often as suggested) at $25 per bulb is $450 a year. So it costs me approximately $720 a year.

It'll take me 2 years to get my investment back. I also have the ability to do sunrise, sunset, mid day sun, low light for pleco tanks and whatever else blows my hair back.

So I wouldn't call it jumping on the bandwagon, more like not missing the boat. Makes me think about my dad actually, still listening to records waiting for something with the same warmth of sound to finally make the change to. ;-)

The one looks emaciated. There are many reasons why she could be looking like that. Is she eating? Is she happy? Is she harassed by anyone? Where did you get her. Is she scratching? I would put money on a parasite if she is happy and eating. I run all my fish bought from stores through a heavy med list as farmed fish are notorious for parasites. I medicate more delicate wild caught fish as wasting is common in angels and apistogrammas. I'd start with meds that won't cause stress and deal with protozoan and worms and flukes like Praziquantel. It doesn't need to be injesued. It's absorbed through the skin and gills. Of she is eating metronidazole soaked food as well. But once they get as thin as your female it's touch and go.

Hope this helps.

Jay