425nm

Any chance you could point me in the direct of a dosing regime that requires a smaller water change?

Okay cool. Ferts hav been obtained. Out of curiousity, what is the dosing calculations based on? Algae is caused by something else?

Should the fish wate not be providing the nitrates? Solid ferts? Will I have to find a way of shoving all of this under my gravel? My tank is a 75 gallon.

I was dosing Nutrafin: Plant Grow (its crap I know) but I stopped for a month because I was having difficulty with filamentous algae. I just started dosing Flourish: Iron on Tuesday. I also have seachem plant tabs under a few plants. I am also running compressed CO2 at ~1 bubble/3 seconds. I have a 5' light ballast running a Life Glo and a Plant Glo for 14hours on and 8 hours off with a two hour break in the middle of the 14 hours.

I shall pick up a potassium supplement soon then. I bought Flourish Iron as my plant's leaves were starting to yellow everywhere but the veins -> sign of iron deficieny yes? No pinholes yet.

Doesn't Edmontons tap water contain most of the needed trace elements? Perhaps better question is, Which is more important Iron, Trace elements or Potassium?

I moved some green fire tetras over from my 75 gallon. Its an odd combo but it works! Its great to see the little guys hoping around from rock to rock. I'd love to have congos but they get too big from the 40 gallon.

So the bottle tells me that it is inorganic carbon. So if I am already running CO2 on my tank already should I use Flourish Iron instead? Also, does Flourish Iron also contain glutaraldehyde like flourish does?

So I have three baby buffalohead cichilids in a 40 gallon with a bruno pleco (I realize he'll get large, and will be moved when he starts getting to big) and they hide all the time. I was wondering if dithers would help these guys? If so does anyone have anyideas for cool preferably African locality dithers? I am also hoping to house three upside down catfish (Synodontis nigriventris) in here when the buffalos are bigger and more able to compete for food.

The fish are placed in breeding traps and can't get at their eggs(not that they've given any). @nanmer: Its not a matter of availability. The fish aren't mine, I'm just supposed to be breeding them and they're on a recirculating system with other fish. Possible contamination/parasites are deemed to risky for live food to be fed.

I have been trying to get them some live food, however this would require me to remove them from the recirculating to a more traditional aquarium. Don't think I can swing live plants either. We have zebrafish as well and they breed no problem. For the most part anyway, some lines are more stubborn than others.

So for the past four months I have been trying to breed: Danio nigrofasciatus(a.k.a. The Dwarf Spotted Danio) http://www.seriously...asciatus&id=210 Danio choprai(a.k.a. The Glowlight Danio) http://animal-world....wlightDanio.php (The picture doesn't do them justice) They are housed in a recirculating system in separate tanks which are bare bottom. In all honesty they don't have enough space (like 10 gallons per 10 fish) but there's never any ammonia or nitrite. Temp: 27C (Its high I know, I don't have control over choosing temp it at the moment, working on it) pH: 7 Salinity: 1300 µS (Most tap water is no higher than 100 µS so its pretty salty). Hardness: (Don't know off the top of my head, I do believe its softer than tap water though). Lights are on from 8am to 10pm. Fish are fed brine shrimp in the morning and the afternoon. They are fed trout chow + spirulina flakes + freeze dried brine shrimp + freeze dried cyclops midafternoon twice a week. The fish are all older than 6 months and the females do appear to be in breeding condition(ie. filled out with eggs). The parents of the dwarf danios are still breeding but are not in my possession. The fish are set up in breeding traps separate from the home tank overnight, then have their water changed in the morning when the lights come on (works perfect for our zebrafish and pearl danios) Does anyone have anyideas? Has anyone ever heard of salinity inhibiting breeding in danios or anything like that? Really need these fish to breed.

Cooool. Long nosed corries are adorable.

Aspartic acid is vitamin C. Its unlikely that it was the problem. In humans its cause by Raffinose which is a sugar our digestive tract cannot break down however bacteria in our gut can break down producing gas. I actually meant to say asparagusic acid which is found only in asparagus as far as I could find out. Just a guess on my part about it being the culprit since it is not found in other veggies and since the plecos didn't appear to have a problem with any others including potato, at least 4 types of squashes and the regular zucchinis, green beans, peas, etc. Ah, well its possible. I believe that is what causes your urine to smell funny after eating asparagus. I am told green beans are like pleco crack, haven't tried them yet myself.

Aspartic acid is vitamin C. Its unlikely that it was the problem. In humans its cause by Raffinose which is a sugar our digestive tract cannot break down however bacteria in our gut can break down producing gas.

If too much particulate carbon got into the water I can see it getting into the fishes gills and possibly causing problems. This is speculation however.

Would anybody be able to tell me round abouts what these beautiful fish cost? Also if aquarium bred are common.

That'd be awesome I gave him a piece of blanched broccoli stalk and he's already made quite a dent in it.

Excellent, I happen to have some fresh mango. Do you know if they could eat blanched broccoli stalk?

I was wondering if anyone knows what Bushy noses can be fed apart from zuuchini, spinach and peas. Are there any fruits they'll take once in a while? I've been told carrots (though my male ignores them).

Anyone ever used one of these?

I don't agree. Unless I have been completely misinformed the F system in aquarium fish is used to track the number of generations the fish have been removed from wild stock. What I outlined is what the F system is used for in regards to genetics, though perhaps not in the aquarium hobby. Using it as a measure of distance from wild type isn't ideal as it could place too much value on wild type fish, encouraging their collection from the wild.

The "F-system" is used to track generations. P1 (Parental 1) x P2 (Parental 2) V F1 "Then each individual offspring described by whatever genotype/phenotype you desire" F1 will include any fish bred from your P1 & P2 at any date. Your Parentals can be whatever you like. Wild-caught or aquarium bred. F2 starts when you take one of the F1 and cross it to someone else. Whether its a back cross to one of the parents, or a incross to a sibiling, or even an outcross.\ Same idea with F3. Out of curiousity do you remember why these people think "F3's are to shallow into the pool?" "CAS/BB/01" could be a way you name/number each individual fish or generation of fish coupled with the F system. The gene pool doesn't get "diluted" unless you keep incrossing your fish for several generations without sufficient outcrossing. The F number of a fish is still important, allows you to map out the family history of your line. The map of that history is actually what a pedigree is.

Bit of filter sponge should work. Should even be able stuff into the intake and have it stay there.

Be sure to cover any filter intakes if you're fish are intent on rearranging the sand. They will spit it right into the intake and it'll bugger your filter/.s.