425nm

the dosing amounts are based on the maximum uptake of nutrients by plants...i suggest using ei when first starting out so you know what healthy well fed plants look like..when you get comfortable you can try limiting certain nutrients to see what deficiencies look like..or try different dosing regimes to see what suits your goals...mci, pps pro, pmdd are other dosing regimes you can try..just google or look around this site for more info..

Each dosing regime has its pro's and cons..

ei requires weekly 50% water changes...I forgot to mention that...

Any chance you could point me in the direct of a dosing regime that requires a smaller water change?

Okay cool. Ferts hav been obtained. Out of curiousity, what is the dosing calculations based on?

Algae is caused by something else?

if your using pressurized co2...no the fish waste won't be enough...co2 and no dosing is kind of like taking steriods and not eating...

The ferts come dry..almost the same consistency as salt...You just add to the water..kno3 comes mixed in water due to legal reasons..but i figured out the dosing for you already..

for a 75 gallon...

dose as following:

60 – 80 Gallon Aquariums

+/- 30ml KN03 3x a week

+/- 3/16 tsp KH2P04 3x a week

+/- 3/16 tsp Trace 3x a week plus your seachem iron..dose the iron as directed on the bottle.

Excess nutrients will NOT cause algae..We can get to the cause of algae later...

ok...you need to start dosing nitrates, phosphates, and potassium....your cheapest option is go to All Seasons Garden Center on 10027 81 ave...Ask for 250g of kno3, 250 g of kh2po4 and 250g of trace...

How many gallons is your tank?....Ill give you dosing instructions when i know the size of the tank...

Next cut your light down to 8-10 hours a day...14 is just to much even with a break...

Should the fish wate not be providing the nitrates?

Solid ferts? Will I have to find a way of shoving all of this under my gravel?

My tank is a 75 gallon.

425...what are you dosing right now?....deficiencies can be misleading...

I was dosing Nutrafin: Plant Grow (its crap I know) but I stopped for a month because I was having difficulty with filamentous algae. I just started dosing Flourish: Iron on Tuesday. I also have seachem plant tabs under a few plants.

I am also running compressed CO2 at ~1 bubble/3 seconds.

I have a 5' light ballast running a Life Glo and a Plant Glo for 14hours on and 8 hours off with a two hour break in the middle of the 14 hours.

K is the most important - that's why it's one of the macro nutrients. If you're dosing KNO3 and KH2PO4, then you should be getting enough K. If not, you'll start to see pinholes in older leaves.

After that, Fe seems to be the most needed micro/trace nutrient needed. That being said, I've seen tanks w noticeable deficiencies just dosing Fe - that's why I recommended Flourish. Over dosing trace doesn't seem to have any negative effects, and has better results than limiting sone trace elements.

I shall pick up a potassium supplement soon then. I bought Flourish Iron as my plant's leaves were starting to yellow everywhere but the veins -> sign of iron deficieny yes?

No pinholes yet.

IMO, you don't need Excel if you're already running CO2. I would use Flourish - the one with a comprehensive trace mix.

Doesn't Edmontons tap water contain most of the needed trace elements?

Perhaps better question is, Which is more important Iron, Trace elements or Potassium?

I moved some green fire tetras over from my 75 gallon. Its an odd combo but it works! Its great to see the little guys hoping around from rock to rock.

I'd love to have congos but they get too big from the 40 gallon.

So the bottle tells me that it is inorganic carbon. So if I am already running CO2 on my tank already should I use Flourish Iron instead?

Also, does Flourish Iron also contain glutaraldehyde like flourish does?

So I have three baby buffalohead cichilids in a 40 gallon with a bruno pleco (I realize he'll get large, and will be moved when he starts getting to big) and they hide all the time. I was wondering if dithers would help these guys?

If so does anyone have anyideas for cool preferably African locality dithers?

I am also hoping to house three upside down catfish (Synodontis nigriventris) in here when the buffalos are bigger and more able to compete for food.

Danios can be ravenous egg eaters. Have you seen any of this behaviour?

The fish are placed in breeding traps and can't get at their eggs(not that they've given any).

@nanmer: Its not a matter of availability. The fish aren't mine, I'm just supposed to be breeding them and they're on a recirculating system with other fish. Possible contamination/parasites are deemed to risky for live food to be fed.

My zebra danio are breeding in my planted tank. One thing I feed them, that i have been told is a fish aphrodisiac, is white worms. They also spend a lot of time in the naja grass, this is where I have seen the babies. I plan on eventually getting other danio species once I upgrade the size of my planted tank.

I have been trying to get them some live food, however this would require me to remove them from the recirculating to a more traditional aquarium. Don't think I can swing live plants either.

We have zebrafish as well and they breed no problem. For the most part anyway, some lines are more stubborn than others.

So for the past four months I have been trying to breed:

Danio nigrofasciatus(a.k.a. The Dwarf Spotted Danio)

http://www.seriously...asciatus&id=210

Danio choprai(a.k.a. The Glowlight Danio)

http://animal-world....wlightDanio.php

(The picture doesn't do them justice)

They are housed in a recirculating system in separate tanks which are bare bottom.

In all honesty they don't have enough space (like 10 gallons per 10 fish) but there's never any ammonia or nitrite.

Temp: 27C (Its high I know, I don't have control over choosing temp it at the moment, working on it)

pH: 7

Salinity: 1300 µS (Most tap water is no higher than 100 µS so its pretty salty).

Hardness: (Don't know off the top of my head, I do believe its softer than tap water though).

Lights are on from 8am to 10pm.

Fish are fed brine shrimp in the morning and the afternoon. They are fed trout chow + spirulina flakes + freeze dried brine shrimp + freeze dried cyclops midafternoon twice a week.

The fish are all older than 6 months and the females do appear to be in breeding condition(ie. filled out with eggs).

The parents of the dwarf danios are still breeding but are not in my possession.

The fish are set up in breeding traps separate from the home tank overnight, then have their water changed in the morning when the lights come on (works perfect for our zebrafish and pearl danios)

Does anyone have anyideas?

Has anyone ever heard of salinity inhibiting breeding in danios or anything like that?

Really need these fish to breed.

Cooool. Long nosed corries are adorable.

I'm fairly certain it is the asperic acid in that particular food that caused the problem. It may not cause all fish to blow up with gas but it sure showed that some of the L240's had a very negative response. It wasn't that they found the flavour undesirable either - ate it with gusto and then suffered the consequences later.

I just wanted to put this out there so no one else found out too late that their fish all blew up. You certainly don't

want to be doing unnecessary experiments with new foods on any fish let alone the more expensive ones. It was sure a shocker to me and Jorg.

Aspartic acid is vitamin C. Its unlikely that it was the problem. In humans its cause by Raffinose which is a sugar our digestive tract cannot break down however bacteria in our gut can break down producing gas.

I actually meant to say asparagusic acid which is found only in asparagus as far as I could find out. Just a guess on my part about it being the culprit since it is not found in other veggies and since the plecos didn't appear to have a problem with any others including potato, at least 4 types of squashes and the regular zucchinis, green beans, peas, etc.

Ah, well its possible. I believe that is what causes your urine to smell funny after eating asparagus. I am told green beans are like pleco crack, haven't tried them yet myself.

I'm fairly certain it is the asperic acid in that particular food that caused the problem. It may not cause all fish to blow up with gas but it sure showed that some of the L240's had a very negative response. It wasn't that they found the flavour undesirable either - ate it with gusto and then suffered the consequences later.

I just wanted to put this out there so no one else found out too late that their fish all blew up. You certainly don't

want to be doing unnecessary experiments with new foods on any fish let alone the more expensive ones. It was sure a shocker to me and Jorg.

Aspartic acid is vitamin C. Its unlikely that it was the problem. In humans its cause by Raffinose which is a sugar our digestive tract cannot break down however bacteria in our gut can break down producing gas.

If too much particulate carbon got into the water I can see it getting into the fishes gills and possibly causing problems. This is speculation however.

Would anybody be able to tell me round abouts what these beautiful fish cost?

Also if aquarium bred are common.

Hmm that's a good question.

I'll call my friend in bc that breeds alot of different kinds of plecos and ask.

That'd be awesome

I gave him a piece of blanched broccoli stalk and he's already made quite a dent in it.

My wild caught zebra plecos like mango once in awhile.

Also cucumber,zucchini,peas,spinach,

And nls pleco formula is good for day to day.

Anykind of live/frozen food(whiteworms,bloodworms,vinegar worms,ect)

Excellent, I happen to have some fresh mango. Do you know if they could eat blanched broccoli stalk?

I was wondering if anyone knows what Bushy noses can be fed apart from zuuchini, spinach and peas.

Are there any fruits they'll take once in a while?

I've been told carrots (though my male ignores them).

Anyone ever used one of these?

The "F-system" is used to track generations.

P1 (Parental 1) x P2 (Parental 2)

V

F1 "Then each individual offspring described by whatever genotype/phenotype you desire"

F1 will include any fish bred from your P1 & P2 at any date.

Your Parentals can be whatever you like. Wild-caught or aquarium bred.

F2 starts when you take one of the F1 and cross it to someone else. Whether its a back cross to one of the parents, or a incross to a sibiling, or even an outcross.\

Same idea with F3.

Out of curiousity do you remember why these people think "F3's are to shallow into the pool?"

"CAS/BB/01" could be a way you name/number each individual fish or generation of fish coupled with the F system.

The gene pool doesn't get "diluted" unless you keep incrossing your fish for several generations without sufficient outcrossing.

The F number of a fish is still important, allows you to map out the family history of your line. The map of that history is actually what a pedigree is.

I don't agree. Unless I have been completely misinformed the F system in aquarium fish is used to track the number of generations the fish have been removed from wild stock.

What I outlined is what the F system is used for in regards to genetics, though perhaps not in the aquarium hobby.

Using it as a measure of distance from wild type isn't ideal as it could place too much value on wild type fish, encouraging their collection from the wild.

The "F-system" is used to track generations.

P1 (Parental 1) x P2 (Parental 2)

V

F1 "Then each individual offspring described by whatever genotype/phenotype you desire"

F1 will include any fish bred from your P1 & P2 at any date.

Your Parentals can be whatever you like. Wild-caught or aquarium bred.

F2 starts when you take one of the F1 and cross it to someone else. Whether its a back cross to one of the parents, or a incross to a sibiling, or even an outcross.\

Same idea with F3.

Out of curiousity do you remember why these people think "F3's are to shallow into the pool?"

"CAS/BB/01" could be a way you name/number each individual fish or generation of fish coupled with the F system.

The gene pool doesn't get "diluted" unless you keep incrossing your fish for several generations without sufficient outcrossing.

The F number of a fish is still important, allows you to map out the family history of your line. The map of that history is actually what a pedigree is.

Bit of filter sponge should work. Should even be able stuff into the intake and have it stay there.

Be sure to cover any filter intakes if you're fish are intent on rearranging the sand. They will spit it right into the intake and it'll bugger your filter/.s.