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FishTankBoy

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Posts posted by FishTankBoy

  1. The initial startup costs are high depending on the size of tank, but it does get cheaper from there. For a 75 gallon tank, it worked out to $1000 for start up and then maybe $400 - $600 each year after that.

    Lobsterboy the original poster got out of the hobby so don't look for a response from him.

  2. You can buy bulkheads at Pisces (plus a huge range of pvc adapters) or at Concepts Aquatics. You can pretty much get every pvc item at Western Pump. They also carry the proper swing arm check valves. Don't use the ones at Lowes/Home Depot as they have a metal spring in them.

  3. A 10 lbs co2 lasts my 90 gallon for over a year. I am running an electronic solenoid with a Milwaukee PH controller though. Do you have a solenoid on your setup?

    When you installed the regulator to the aluminum tank, did you use a permaseal or a new nylon washer? Also use teflon tape when attaching the regulator components together?

    Tell us about your full setup. What items are inline after the needle valve (e.g., Needle Valve --> Bubble counter --> check valve --> Reactor). Or, you can spray some soapy water all along the line to see where the leak is coming from.

    I would suggest that you just keep the 5lbs bottle as it should last you at least 8 to 14 months. If you run the electric solenoid on a timer, have it turn on 2 hours before lights on and 1 hour before lights off.

  4. I had great success with mineralized top soil walstad style for 8 months. If you go with rosette plants (swords, crypts, lotus, aponogetons), you will prosper. The problem came when the bottoms of my stem plants got so laggy and shed all its leaves. When you uproot the plant which you are never suppose to do, the soil gets released into the water column and toxifies the water. This leads to fish death and water changes.

    In order to have no water changes, you need a very small bioload. Definetely a lot of plant load on the surface to hide the surface scum. If you plan on having a mechanical filter, you sure need to keep up with maintenance on that, otherwise go with a power head. You also need a proper balance of lighting to match the type of plants you have, or algae will take over.

    In the end, I don't recommend it as I had short lived experience with it (i'm used to having an aquascape thrive for 2 - 3 years before I tear it down completely and rebuild). I would prefer a ADA Aquasoil or Fluval substrate instead. These substrates are essentially the same thing (high nutrient) but dont' break down as quickly.

  5. I apologise for taking it off track.

    Glass tops are nice because it gives you flexibilty. Like you said the light source is easy. With a secure glass top you have a multitude of lighting choices., , , and none of your investments end up getting "bumped" in to the tank. :o

    Thanks for the info. I never thought of your comment as rude whatsoever and was never offended. I am pretty sure that you will find a difference if you take the same PAR test under 12" of water. But since I have never tested this myself, I cannot attest to its accuracy or not. Only from what I have read on other forums.

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