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Fisher

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Posts posted by Fisher

  1. I think sucking them up with the syringe would destroy them as well.

    Admittedly, I wasn't intending to grow any out for a couple months. But now I am 'cause there's a fry-chaser in our home who uses an eyedropper. None were injured, but the risk is there. Nice setup Jay. Good for you!

  2. After talking with the woodworker in our extended family, I'm going to dispense with the no-hinge removable door (on both cabinets), in favor of hidden hinges. I'm in and out of the cabinet often enough that removing the door each time is a nuisance.

  3. I assume that you would have exchanged it if that was an option.

    I ran the 500 model in a cistern for a few months. It ran quiet and it pushed water until it was time to remove it.

    Here's some information for you to consider.

    By the way the propeller blades are inclined, they are intended to spin counter clockwise to push water away from the motor assembly. The force of the blades pushing water away, also draws the propeller back into the motor assembly (and away from the guard), and in turn, presses the motor assembly back into the suction cup. The same physics that propels a boat.

    Those notches - the lands on the guard and the lands on the end of the column aren't intended to mesh during normal operation.

    The flat section on your propeller column and on the gaurd will lock the propeller if the pump started running in reverse. It's a safety design CatWhat ;)

    Are there burrs in these locations?

    post-5496-0-64280800-1365177182_thumb.jpgpost-5496-0-07197500-1365177184_thumb.jpg

    It'd be helpful to know if your pump is, in fact, pushing or pulling water.

    If it's pulling water, then the pump is running in reverse; the knock is the motor overcoming the safety lock. I would expect a burr to form on leading edge of the flat where the propeller shaft climbs the groove in the gaurd.

    If it's pushing water, then it seems to me the prop is too close to the guard. That could be for a variety of reasons:

    1. the propeller column has crept up the steel shaft,

    2. the shaft isn't seated far enough into the motor (and too far into the cage),

    3. the cage is pushed too far back on the main motor body...

  4. The trim is put on, the screws are all sunk;

    Put on right, once. Gorilla’s strong gunk.

    The Weißen is gone, the day is at hand;

    The putty is drying, awaiting the sand.

    One thing today, that was not on the list:

    Abiding with family; four I had missed.

    They stayed the whole aft; our visit was gran’.

    My heart is now soothed. I am a rich man.

  5. I didnt add co2 in my 20 gallon. Im just wanting to give my plants a boost from the dry part of this experiment. If my plants lag right now, I could have a serious amount of algae to deal with in this tank, and I dont want that. My 20 gal didnt have to deal with a transition period at the beginning being a normal plant and fill style tank. With a dsm there is typically a period of stagnancy while the plants adjust to lower Co2 levels and, especially with the high nutrient values in an npt, this is a prime time for algae to come in and pillage my tank :( boo

    ... marshalling the benefits of dsm into npt. Does Diana mention taking this approach?

  6. heres a trick to slow the flow down without throttling the output of the canister filter back but will decrease the flow back to the tank, take a ballvalve and 2 T fittings with barb fittings on both ends of the 2 T fitting glue the ball valve between the 2 fittings, install this setup in your input and output lines depending on how much you open the ball valve will dictate the amount of water heading back to the tank, this will also allow you to double the filtration of the water by sending some of it back into the canister, this will alow normal flow through the canister with out causing the pump to work any harder then normal operation. this trick can also be used on a sump set up as well.

    see the post at the beginning of this topic, dated 23 September 2012 - 02:57 PM ^_^

  7. Im starting it sans poisson. Once the nitrifying bacteria in the soil gets moving, they will product the co2 required by my plants.

    Ok. So the plants deal with the NH3, NO2- and NO3− and the soil bacteria eats N and burps CO2?

  8. I had aru2s and yellow shrimp in the same tank; moderately planted. The juve shrimp holed up under a piece of driftwood, and stayed close.

    The bigger shrimp swam the tank freely; the aru2s didn't give them a 2nd look. I didn't ever see an aru2 take a crack at the little shrimps. But while the shrimp colony slowly languished, the aru2s were throwing eggs... 1+1=2

  9. Go for broke!

    Browse the web for posts that refer to "plants that taste bad to goldfish." Maybe if a goldfish had a choice of shrubbery, it would be inclined to

    to the shrubbery that does not appease it...

    Gold fish generate waste like a race horse, so they say. one more impetus for aquaponix.

    edit: spelling

  10. I stuck the top on just before supper.

    post-5496-0-20507000-1364784257_thumb.jpg

    (ahem) bar sag: 0.002"... great top deck design James!

    Used to do this on the bar speakers in the 80s. good times.

    On to framing the front door and sheeting in the sides... tomorrow.

  11. looks good! did you see any sag?

    I was in Edm all day today, so I won't get to this until tomorrow night.

    I'd use it for a car ramp, but it's pretty mucky outside.happy.png So once the glue sets, my wife and I will dance on it and see what happens.

  12. Unlike Cabinet #1, the bottom deck on this cabinet is in one piece; no verticle support in the middle.

    Once I stick the top plywood down. I'll see how much the top sags with 300lbs on it. If it sees more than 0.005", I'll prop it up.

    Instead of built-in shelving, this one will have removable storage; a small bookshelf built out of scrap plywood.

    Next steps: buy more carpenter's glue and screws, attach the top deck, frame in the door, sheet in the front sides.

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