Fisher

best wishes... I trust your changes will be (to quote Adams' book) "circular" -F

Thanks for your supportive comments, and thanks to Chelsea for explaining my design in lay terms. Holidays are over so progress has been slow, hence no new photos. The top and bottom are on, and sanded. Revision #4: I'm going to omit the right side compartment door and just cover that side with ply. I'll omit the inside panel so I can still access the compartment through the main door. I've finally decided to leave the back open so I can get to the wall outlet if I need to. Well said. It's an aquarium stand, not a parkade.

If anyone still has this on their shopping list, CA can supply it.

yup, fishtanks! I have a rectangle stand holding up a 25 tall, but it's pretty tippy on carpet. My primary purpose is to build two corner cabinets that will accommodate 30x12 tanks. However, these cabinets will flank and compliment a feature cabinet in our living room. So the dimensions are strictly intended to do that. The back sides are 36" long, the short sides are 18". I'm not following you: NDS suggests lateral load (shear) per #8 multipurpose screw is ~85lbs. I haven't looked in IPT yet, but 90lbs comes to mind. I estimate 30 screws in the top frame alone. 60x85=5,100lbs. 60% IPT safety factor = 3,060lbs. I'd be safe if the screws experience any shear, that is, if the vertical supports were not flush with the top plane (where the coffee cups will sit) and bottom plane (what contacts the floor). However, all 9 vertical supports do precisely that. So the weight on the top will transfer to the floor. The Revision #2 photos probably illustrates it the best. The top and bottom frameworks are true, so screws only serve to fasten them to the vertical supports. It seems the upright supports you are proposing and the uprights you see are one and the same. There is no center support on the left side, like there is on the right. The span is 24" front to back corner; 12" to the left corner. When I sit on the strut, it flexes 0.020" I estimate that will be reduced to 0.010" when I put the top plywood on.

hanks for the props and feedback.

The Intent; two corner cabinets in the living room built from plywood and 2x4s: The Action: Whittled up a few sticks. Built the bottom frame and carried it up to the living room to verify the floor space. Built the top frame, stuck it on the bottom frame. Verified the height. Revision #2: The joint is 135o. Ripping a 45o mitre edge on a 2x3 wouldn't give me much to screw to. So I made the two front vertical supports out of 2x4. Yes, I see the screw heads sticking out... already countersunk. Formed the horizontal framework for the bottom. After looking at the struts, I realized I have nothing to attach the edge of the plywood bottom to. Revision #3: Moved the front strut against the frame and planned to rip enough 2x2s to run inside the bottom frame. Picked up enough wood to finish framing cabinet #1, build cabinet #2 and plywood them both. With so much rain yesterday, it looks like tomorrow will be Charlie Mike.

Aquariums and beer making. Now that sounds familiar. One summer day, my son brought me a 10gal tank and said, "You should get back into it Dad." ... and I did.

sometimes the chemical comes up in discussions about anchor worms. it has other uses though.

If you really want to take it further creekbottom (and I ain't suggesting you should), you can put the new impeller on the old shaft/bushings -and vice versa- and see what happens. A new impeller will wobble on worn shaft/bushngs. A worn impeller will wobble on new shaft/bushings. (but even if they wobble, they won't fall down)

He doesn't want them to sneeze out of the water and get fish snot on his hand

How are you doing with this?

I spied them on fairdeal's SA list and started snooping around. A few posts back in Feb I think. I thought I'd check if anyone already posted a topic on them before making a new one. We'll see if Mr Grouper chimes back in.

I was doing some research on C. arnoldi and found Fascinating creatures!Do you still have these fish?

sherlock is shutting down his 180. His ad might give you some ideas. edit: sp

It'd be handy if you had access to another 2215/2217 to swap out parts. A way to test if the bushings are worn is to apply a bit of weight on the pump head while it runs. Gently and gradually push down; not lots, say 3lbs tops. If the noise changes (or stops), that's an indicator the bushings might have some play in them. When I bought spares for my canisters, the shaft/bushings cost ~ a third of a new impeller. But if you need an impeller, then changing the shaft/bushings is a good practise. You can always keep the old parts in case of an emergency.

Wow creekbottom! That really sounds like impeller imbalance, or the impeller is impacting the pump cover/impeller chamber. The impeller is comprised of two major parts; a ferrite cylinder (the end that you plunk into the impeller chamber first) and a plastic impeller head (with blades). I know you said the impeller blades look ok. If all the blades are there, that rules out imbalance. Does the plastic impeller head separate from the ferrite cylinder (blade movement)? If the blades are impacting the impeller chamber or the pump cover (7253069), then you’ll see wear (a burr) in on the top or bottom edge of the impeller blades, and maybe even some scuffing on the adjacent pump part (chamber or cover). This might be premature, but it might be time to simply replace the impeller. There are two schools of thought regarding this action creekbottom; buy a 2215 impeller, or buy a 2217 impeller. If you replace the impeller, it’s worthwhile replacing the shaft/bushings too.

You might have a loose part rattling under the head cover, but there's not much under there to rattle creekbottom. The impeller, which is the only moving part, is held fairly firm by the motor magnet in the impeller chamber. That's what you are tugging against in order to pull the impeller out of the chamber. The AC HOBs are the same way. Here is an exploded view of the 2215 Classic. 7438430 is the shaft/bushings. Can you locate both bushings in your canister? If either bushing is missing, there'll be plenty of play for your impeller to rattle. Perhaps other 2215 owners can chime in on this, but I don't think the bushings are bigger than 3/16" Ø On my 2213s, one bushing stays stuck in the impeller chamber. The other bushing comes out with the shaft when I remove the securing piece. So when I clean out the impeller chamber, I hold the canister head over a bowl, or pail in case the bushing falls out (which it hasn't so far). Shine a light into the impeller chamber (hold your mouth the right way) and you will see the bushing (or an empty bushing seat). If a bushing is missing, the rattle will be prominent but not necessarily constant. So describing the nature of the noise, as jcgd already pointed out, is vital. If I unplug my 2213s during regular operation, they will chatter for 2 seconds when I plug them back in. This also happens during brownouts. One of my canisters started cavitating last month; a distinctly different sound to my ears. Not as sharp, higher pitch, longer duration. Each one of mine hums during regular operation, but I can't hear them unless I open my cabinet doors. Then again, I'm paying my dues after years of doing my Rock 'n Roll duty.

aw pith!

It sounds as though you're confident you have no air lock creekbottom. - Hydrodynamic cavitation occurs when there is a restriction on the suction end; the pump isn't able to draw enough water into the pump chamber fast enough. This creates negative pressure at the impeller, air bubbles form and implode (which makes the sizzling sound, like BBs or marbles). This kind of cavitation damages hydraulic pumps of all stripes. Possible solutions: Check your double tap valve (if you have them) to make sure your suction end is fully open. Check the strainer and siphon tube to be sure it's not clogged. - If some of your lower filter material is slipping past your floss, you just might find filter material laying in your spray bar. Is your floss tucked snug against the canister wall? Is your floss above or below the upper lattice screen? - The only other thing I can think of is to carefully pull the impeller out, check that the bearing/shaft is still in one piece, and that the bearing seats are still in place. And while you have it apart, clean the area where the impeller sits (I use a Q-tip for my 2213s). Put it back together and see what you have. Best of luck!

have they hatched yet Jay?

I'd cast my lot on water change, salt and temp too. When you do your water change, remember to add the proportionate amount of salt to the water you replace. best of luck!

Say Maxwell, does routing your co2 through your canister make the impeller chatter?

+1 I had these pikers in my 25g a few months back. After reading Jayba's thread (and the links therein), and buying some lev from Spruceguve, I treated my tank as described above. Pulled out the decor/plants (and rinsed them); vacuumed the substrate each time. It was a pain in the keester, butt it worked ^_^and it reinforced the value of sound QT. There are a several threads here on dewormers. I might have used something else if Levamisole wasn't so popular among AA membership, or hard to get.

+1 Here's an article on levamisole dosing penned by the infamous Jayba. Best of luck!

... sick! That reminds me of those kijiji ads that say "sold" -05-