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Psylant

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Posts posted by Psylant

  1. I know I'm new but I just thought I would throw in that I have had success with concrete decorations with a pond sealant applied basically as paint.

    Thanks for your input. I've posed this question on a another forum and someone recommended using portland cement + shredded fiberglass + acrylic fortifiers + sand, painted over a foam structure with fiberglass matting on it. You paint it on until it's 3/4" or so thick and then use acetone to melt away the foam you can't chip out. Then seal with some type of clear epoxy. I might have a look for the materials tonight. I'd like to get this done before it gets too chilly to work outside!

  2. very strong. I'd trust that more than a man made clay cave

    I've tried to silicone slate pieces together before and they often fall apart without much stress on them. That's what worries me. Maybe if I am overly liberal with the silicone and do a better job of cleaning the rocks it would work better. Perhaps I could use some plastic or metal mesh and seal it in silicone to help provide some structure?

  3. Will anything be on the cave? If not I found a neat idea that you could modify while looking at diy caves for axolotls. This might work for you. http://www.caudata.org/forum/f46-beginner-newt-salamander-axolotl-help-topics/f48-axolotls-ambystoma-mexicanum/f59-axolotl-tank-set-ups-filters-substrate/85464-do-yourself-homemade-hides.html

    Maybe tie some plants to it if I get adventurous but nothing heavy or large. I would like to make something more natural than those caves and irregularly shaped. Maybe I could buy a large rubbermaid tub and melt it with a heatgun or something if I get desperate but I'd like something more abstract if possible :). Keep in mind the puffer will get very large and strong as he matures. Basically imagine him as a toddler :) haha.

  4. There is some stuff like concrete called Fijicrete that is being used for dry reef rock, I would assume it's safe for freshwater as well. There are some Youtube videos of it being used, if you want to check it out.

    Thanks for the idea. I took a brief look around and I think this is used as a glue more than as a building material.

  5. Hi everyone,

    I have a 450g aquarium that I'm looking to put a fairly large (3'x1.5'x1' or so) natural looking rock cave in my tank. I was going to make this out of clay but it cracked while drying at the pottery studio into a million pieces. I just don't think it's meant to make things quite this large! Does anyone have another idea of a material this could be done with? I've heard fiberglass and concrete aren't very fish safe so I'd like to steer clear of those. Ideally the cave will be one large solid piece so that my Mbu puffer can't knock it down. I''m hoping my clown loaches will use it as a refuge if required :)

    Looking forward to hearing ideas from the community! If all else fails I could just make a stack of large driftwood pieces.

  6. I don't think you need to have a chlorine filter on that system. If your water was being treated with chloramine you would though -- it doesn't evaporate. If you let the water drip/splash into the tank most of the chlorine would dissipate almost immediately. Plus, the very small amounts of water changed via drip wouldn't leave me worrying at all. I would suggest a filter if you were worried about heavy metals, etc. though.

    Edmonton's tap water is treated with chloramine - filter is definitely required

    I had no idea. Good to know :)

  7. I don't think you need to have a chlorine filter on that system. If your water was being treated with chloramine you would though -- it doesn't evaporate. If you let the water drip/splash into the tank most of the chlorine would dissipate almost immediately. Plus, the very small amounts of water changed via drip wouldn't leave me worrying at all. I would suggest a filter if you were worried about heavy metals, etc. though.

  8. I've owned a lot of different LEDs and built my own. LEDs do fade over time very slowly, but usually do not shift in kelvin (color). They can fail all at once for a multitude of reasons, but usually not if everything was working fine and unaltered, and water didn't get in the system to cause a short.

  9. Thanks for the replies. The plan so far then is a 90 gallon with M. Lacustris, GBR, rummynose, clown loach and green laser corys. Anyone see any issues with that mix?

    Sounds fine to me as long as the filtration is pretty good. The loaches (I assume you're buying small ones?) take a long time before they will become too large to bother the others in my opinion, as they are very slow growers. I would try to place a small powerhead along the back or sides that will provide a gentle stream for the loaches/rainbows to play in, while allowing some slower waters for the GBR and rummynose. That might be the only problem I foresee.

  10. As in your well water isn't buffered? Or just the difference in pH between Edmonton and your new place?

    If you're just worried about the difference between places, the drip acclamation should be fine.

    If you're worried bc your well water has very poor buffering capacity, regular monitoring, large regular WCs or constant drip WC system will keep things in check. Also, you could add some coral, shells or limestone to the tank to increase buffering capacity, if you like. Regular monitoring should be done if you go this route so you know when a WC is needed to reset the pH and/or hardness, or when it's time to replace or add more.

    I think this is excellent advice. If your buffering is in question the constant drip will be your best friend. Most of your fish you mentioned prefer soft water anyways!

  11. Thanks for the review I'm sure it will help lots of people out there looking for specialty tanks! :)

    I've always wanted to visit this place just to see what it was like. One of these days... I don't get into that area much.

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