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Kent's very reputable. I'm not sure how much TropicMarin salt is in AB but it's about $110 for a 200gal mix vs $100 for TM and IO (Instant Ocean). Since I've been using TM for quite awhile and had excellent results. The difference of $10 for me is a pint for the wife and I. Quality time yanno . The only probelms that i have found was a bad batch (I didn't get one but have had clients with it) where the pH of the new SW had a pH of 9.0+!!! Wilson

Pretty good lighting!!! Since you have a pressurized CO2 system, why not take advantage of it . Try changing a bulb or two with CoraLife 50/50 (used in SW aquariums) and get some reddish plants such as Alternanthera sp., red Nymphaea sp. lillies or Rotala willissii(sp?) to puch it up a bit. I'm typing from Toronto, ON so I'm not too sure of what's available to you in AB . The blue wavelengths from the 50/50 are great for plants with red pigments and will encourage the reddening of some plant species. What other plants are available to you in AB? Wilson

I had a bunch of C. orientalis in the late 80's to mid 90's. Lost them due to a vengeful psycho hosebeast of an X-g/f.

Very nice, tanked!!! Glad to hear that you didn't have a catastrophe from the funky reg. What kind of lighting and bulb type are you using? Wilson

First choice for the past 15 years: TropicMarin, Instant Ocean second for my reef. When I had fish only I used CoraLife. What are you using? Wilson

I haven't seen Convicts looking that nice in a longtime. Good looking Apost too. Wilson

Very nice set-up!!!

Great vid and nice pair of MCs. Nice set-up from what I can see of it . Are you using SouthDown playsand or the Sugar Sized CaribSea aragonite substrate? Wilson

It retracted into it's crevace (naturally) and then I just covered it in about 1/8" of the powder. This time I left the pumps off for 30 mins. It's been about 18 hours and no signs of it coming back. What I did wrong in the past is not waiting long enough before putting the pumps back on. Hopefully I don't have to do it again...LOL Hope it helps out those with aiptasia problems. Wilson

"Shooting" it up. The pumps have been shut off for about 5 mins.

Here's the 60cc syringe with 22g needle. 18g would be better but I ran out. There's 3 tsp Kalk and water.

Here's my method of killing aiptasia. Here's the last and tough one that I've been trying to kill and this is the 5th attempt. It's about 1.25" tall.

No probs Wilson

That's a pretty sweet deal!!!

Eheim Classics are my first choice. Rena FilStars/Eheim Pro are a close seconds. Eheim Pro w/Wet-Dry are too finicky (IMHO) for the price you pay. Honestly forget the rest of the canisters. Fluval X04: 4-5 changes since it's introduction, well, if they didn't get it right the first time... Magnums: I never had that didn't give me problems in one way or another. Diatom capability is nice but a real PITA to prime w/powder. Better off with the Whisper Diatomagic. Those are SUPER EASY to use diatom filters :thumbs:!!! HTH Wilson

LOL...forgot about pickling salt (PS) as Smokey suggested. The issue that I have with PS is that it contains Ca and Mg salts. If your water is already hard, you're just going to make your water "harder". IMHO when using salt, it's more of a therapeutic agent and support for a medication regimin. For the LFS when they receive a shipment, I would definitely use salt in the form of NaCl. This balances osmotic issues from different "salt content/tonicity" from water in the shipping bag to the selling aquariums. If you have a conductivity meter, check the water that they come in with and then check the aquarium that they're going to be put in. If there's a big difference, you may have problems with them acclimating. Most can make the adjustment but if you have sensitive species, this may be an issue. Regarding the difference b/w NaCl and KCl isn't a biggee. If one has a well planted aquarium and does wish to use salt on a regular basis, KCl salt will be more of a benefit to use as plants uptake K is very high compared to other elements/nutrients. Yes table salt has iodine, but it's the anti-caking agent in table salt that does more harm than iodine. JM2C Wilson

IMHO, the Fluval 403 will be fine for your g/f. Why one of your g/f went wonky could be many reasons. Environmental factors, genetic predisposition, diet, etc. If your water parameters are in check (pH=7.2-7.6, kH=4-8dkH, GH=6-12dGH, NH3=NO2=0, NO3=less than 15mg/L) and feed them lots of vegetable matter you can't do any better than that. It's just up to the fish to live. Just my opinion: Do keep in mind that these fish have been selectively bred for centuries. From what I've seen and experienced personally and professionally, it's a weakening strain of fish and not as hardy as they were 5 years ago. Same goes for Siamese fighting fish. I lost one after 6 years (from LFS) and the others that I have bought and kept in the past 2 years from the LFS haven't made it past 8 months. Just weird yet logical at the same time. If you wish to switch to an Eheim, IMHO/E, they are worth every penny and then some. I have an old 1811 from the mid 80's that's still running like it was new. For a 77gal with g/f I'd go for a larger model. A 2217 will barely do the job 2-3 years down the road when they get to the size of a baseball, assuming they are of the "fantail" bodyshape. Personally I prefer the "Classic" Eheims. The single quick release attachment for the 2 hoses I have found to be a PITA, whether it be on a Rena FilStar, EheimPro, Fluval...whatever comes out inthe future. Keep in mind, all Eheims have been designed and engineered to prevent bypass of water during the filtration process. Though Fluval and FilStar "claim" a no bypass filtration system, one has to look closely to the fittings within the canister. I'll take some pics later and post. HTH Wilson

I'd use salt for water softener units. Fewer contaminants and literally the same stuff at the LFS, just different grain size. BTW, if you have plants, get the salt that's KCl instead of NaCl based. Just take a peek at the label, it should tell you its composition. Wilson

My experiences with C.orientalis and bleheri is that they do not tolerate water with a GH above 10dGH. Almonds leaves or blackwater extract do help in acclimating. Snakeheads are now banned in ON. Just as a note, WC fish coming out of India is a tricky thing as transportation from the collection site to port of export can be quite precarious for the fish, especially of they're from areas of pristine, fast flowing water. Rosaline Sharks (P. dennisoni) are pricey due to being coveted but also a 50% mortality from point of collection to port of export. On top of "changing hands" to the LFS, they've been to hell and back. HTH Wilson

LOL..."12 steps" are implimented in different "X" Anonymous programs.

Since it's well planted, I don't suggest using any type of "aeration" as it will gass off CO2 which your plants need. It will also affect water chemistry (buffer/pH) down the road. That's another kettle of fish, pardon the pun.

The rattling sound seems to me that here is still air in the head of the canister. Try tipping the can at ~45* while plugged (full of water of course) in and it should start pushing water. When it does, slowly upright and "smak" the side of the can to burp out bubble trapped at the head and in the foam block. If the output is quite low, a new impeller and shaft may help if the shaft is worn or the imoeller has lost some of it's magnetism. If it doesn't work, the windings in the head is slowly failing. HTH Wilson

New bulbs have a stronger intensity than old bulbs and that generally is the cause in some algae problems. Next time you replace bulbs, cut the photoperiod back a few hours and then increase every few days until you get back to your regular photoperiod. As for the plants, it seems like to me it's become a water quality issue. Get your water tested and a pic would help too . pH, kH, GH, NO3, PO4 and we'll go from there. Wilson

WOW...that's an amazing price. When I bought my concolors 5 years ago I parted $20CDN ea. Then again the Far East has been breeding more of the "fancy" varieties the pst few years. I remember WC C. sterbae going for $40CDN ea. Now I see them for $10CDN ea. Wilson

C. concolor are one of my fav cories. I like the subltile colors of orange, red and bronze. Not a common cory to run into. If you don't mind me asking, how much were they?