geleen

so i recently moved 5 of my discus upstairs into a 70 tank.

little did i know i had a pair.

i had 15 in a 115. sold a few moved some into the 70g.

so yesterday a few were cleaning a piece of wood, and there tubes were down. today they have laid eggs.

should i move they remaining 3 discus back downstairs? will it distrupt the tan kto much?

not to much chasing, there is also tatras, rams in the tank as well?

will they eat all there eggs or be good parents>

gina these are 2 i got from you?

the smaller powder blue and the large meanie!!! that have paired off.

do they stay a couple now???

Several things to consider:

1:/ they will likely have several goes at it and will likely eat the eggs within a day or 2. And they should be separated as the eggs or fry will not survive in a community tank.

2./ In order to have viable eggs and healthy fry the temp should be 88F

3./ PH will need to be lowered to have a higher hatch rate;likely to 6.5

4./ Kh and Gh should be below 6

In Alberta that would mean mixing 60 70 % RO with tap water

Once you have fry you will need to change75 -90 % with pre heated water daily, in a bare bottom tank.

Good luck and have fun

John

Gorgeous!

John

I recently purchased some plants from another forum member as a result of my WTB classified and was absolutely impressed. I came back home with the plants and (after adding the plants to the aquarium) I edited my WTB classified title to indicate that I've found what I was wanting to buy. I then wanted to add an additional reply to the classified's thread to say thank you to the seller and let everyone else know that it had been a more than successful transaction. Unfortunately, my classified had already been sent to the archives and I was unable to post my reply.

I think that it would be very beneficial to have some mechanism of posting feedback about a transaction. Several other aquaria-related forums use iTrader (looks like it’s an exclusive add-on to the vBulletin forum engine) and I have observed that it is used and referenced with great success. I don’t know if there is an analog for the IP.Board engine that AA uses, but I suspect that other members might find it helpful to find and add member transaction feedback in a central location… be it a simple moderated forum, or some spiffy add-on function.

My two cents. I am now going to PM my kudos to the member who sold me the plants **coughcoughjvisioncoughcough**.

I like it! I have met some very nice folks here and this would help to acknowledge them.

John

"Does anyone have any recommendations on water conditions to keep happy discus?"

I would do some research on simplydiscus.com.

To grow out your discus to optimal size you will have to change up to 75% water daily for the first year.

Tap water pre-conditioned for 24 hours and heated to 88 F is all that is needed.

To grow-out healthy discus and trying to maintain a high tech or even a planted tank, at the same time, may be too much to ask for, and would not likely be attempted by the most experienced discus keepers.

Young discus need to be fed 4-6 per day and the accumulated waste can not be removed efficiently in a planted tank.

Pure clean water is key!

One more note: you will be seriously overstocked in a very short time

j

no started out at 0, yes all filter media was from an other active filter.

If you had enough filter material from an other established source you may have over dosed the ammonia. I would do a 50 % water change and monitor. When the NH3 drops to 0.5, I would add ammonia to 2ppm.

If that disappears in 24 hours you may have cycled the tank with the existing media.

J

Edmonton uses Chloromine compounds in it's treatment process, which will require the use of some kind of agent to bind the chlorine in the water. (Some other communities still use simple chlorine which dissipates after ~24 hours of airation).

Chloromine is a combination of ammonia and chlorine, so what Prime does is break the two apart, then binds with them, individually. Once it has bound it's done it's job. So simply... dose the original tank with a proper amount of prime, and let it do it's work on the chlorine and ammonia. Once that original chlorine and ammonia are dealt with (within minutes with proper circulation) then any additional ammonia you place in the tank will NOT be bound by the Prime as it's chemical process will have been used up. It is possible due to the various amounts and concentrations of ammonia and chlorine in the original water that the does of Prime may not be used up the first day, but I assure you that after your first 'cycle dose' of pure ammonia to the water, the remainder will be used and you'll be on your way.

Do not add any more Prime unless you do a water change, and I don't believe that is done until the cycle is complete, correct? I have to admit it's been a long time since I looked at the process, exactly.

This sounds right.

You will be adding so much additional ammonia the prime will no longer effect it. You can test this with your daily monitoring of ammonia levels.

I just started a 20 gal. tank by taking a little filter material and other good stuff from other tanks and putting it in the new filter. It was ready in 3 day's. Going to a larger tank, this method will speed things up considerably.

John

Hi, im getting back into the fish hobby, but unfortuanatley I remember almost nothing about it, so could you help please? I have a 20g tank that has just been cleaned. I am hoping to get some tetras (freshwater), and thats about it. Basically, how do i do the fish thing. I only have assorted equipment, a filter with ammonia, sponge and charcol (should i use other filter inserts?). I have chlorine remover, and some cycle. I also have some aquarium salt and some fake plants (should i use real ones?). And food, what kind should I use? I have some algea flake, flake food for tropical fish, pellet food for tropical fish, micro granules for small tropical fish, and some freeze dreid blood worms. Lastly, how do you cycle a tank? I really have no idea how to start this, so could you guys please help me?

Thanks

A good place to start would be to google "fishles cycling" Takes about 4-6 weeks. If you have access to a established tank you could squeeze a sponge from that filter into your tank and speed things up.

Some people use a product called stability and add fish ....I am skeptical of this method.

I would not use any other media than some pot-scrubbers or ceramic rings and a sponge on top for polishing the water.

Once cycled get some fish and some fresh food, any food older than 1 year should be discarded.

Plants are a personal item. They make things look very nice. Lots of info on planted tanks on the net.....enough to keep you reading for a few day's.

John

Nice crinum werner!

Ditto! Can I come and borrow it for a while?

John

Anybody know anything about rummynose tetra breeding? Mine have been doing funny things: if the school stops moving near the bottom, a couple of them will curve their bodies and roll slightly to their side. Startled me at first since it looks like a "nearly dead" float. But after a few seconds they go back to normal. I suspect this is a breeding behavior?

I haven't found any really in depth info online. Does anyone have breeding experience with these? I'm pretty sure the ones I have are Hemigrammus bleheri.

I would think that Heiko Bleher would know he discovered them :-) Try posting on simplydiscus forum,as he writes there from time to time.

Perhaps name the post "Asking Heiko Bleher" he usually responds.

John

"OH and the bottom panel is cracked so im probably going to have to either buy a new peice of glass and replace it or ill have to buy a new corner tank.

"

Pretty risky if the bottom is cracked....does it hold water? I guess you could silicone a piece of glass over the top but would you want to risk it?

J

I was reading up on breeding my rainbows and killifish, looks like breeding mops are the recommended breeding technique. Has anyone else ever used this technique? I was thinking of going to wal mart to find some nylon or acrylic yarn to make these mops. Any tips on making one, or using them to breed with? Any help or suggestions would be great

Just google spawning mops for many examples. :thumbs:

Also read here: http://members.optushome.com.au/chelmon/Contents.htm

John

Ok but you would have to drill larger holes now,or am I wrong? How difficult will that be. You may have to build a jig to keep the bit from moving . You will have only 1/8 of material to work with.

John

What kind of shrimp are you talking about? Are you talking about the little Gammarus that live in a bunch of hte 'lakes' around town? Your fish would love them, but they may carry diseases. Aparently, they're pretty easy to keep and breed, tho.

Not a clue...I scooped some out of a ~1 acre deep pool with hundreds of koi and goldfish. They look kind of ugly and dark and I may just chuck them. It seemed like a good idea at the time.

John

Grrrrrrrrrrr sorry to hear this :banned:

John

Prime is great and relatively cheap.

For discus the water has to be preheated and airated in a storage container for 24 hours to prevent the CO2 in tap water from taking the slime coat off.

John

Has anyone fed live, fresh water shrimp? The ones I captured are about 3/4 inch long.

I am not sure if I even want to put them in the tank; they move quite fast.

Would they reproduce in an aquarium?

John

I was watching my fish this morning, and I noticed one of my male boesemani's doing the dance around the 2 females I have. Unfortunately they were ignoring him for the most part. It is very exciting to see since I only got the females about 3 weeks ago It is really neat to watch the males because they get a gorgeous stripe along their head and nose when wanting to breed. I noticed too that the male became quite aggressive towards other fish, almost like a cichlid would lol. If they do breed, should I remove the eggs asap so they don't get eaten?

Yes!

There is also hybridization if there are other Melanoteania species in the tank.

I have had success with hanging a homemade mop in the tank 4 day's in a row, removing the mop and hatching them in 5 galllon or smaller at 25-28 C in about 8-10 day's

John

so in the last month ive been slowly losing fish in my 80 gallon tank....

now i have 8 angel fish in it, like 15 cories, and then one goldfish, and one 7 inch pleco

i lost a wood shrimp, a flying fox, and 2 other plecos...and possibly some cories(not sure as theres alot)

these were all slow moving fish and tended to rest around on the bottom and be sluggish at night.

who would be the culprit? is it most likely the pleco like im assuming?

Must ask; are you sure of your water parameters? Did you measure? This may be a slow deterioration of your water quality. Has your filter been cleaned just before you started to lose fish? You are surely close to maxed out in that tank and may need 50 % water changes per week or more. Perhaps there has been a large build up of dissolved solids over a long period of time.

Ammonia builds up near the bottom first so that is perhaps why you lost the plecos.

J

I've been trying to cycle my 30 Gallon Tall. It'll be 3 weeks on the 31st and nothing seems to be happening - ammonia level has been steady at 4ppm since October 10. I have not added any ammonia since the initial dose and no nitrites have shown up either. I've got a Rena Filstar XP1 for filtration. Filter components supplied with the unit are installed. Dechlorinator was added to the water before adding to the aquarium and their is plenty of surface agitation. Temperature is set to 80F right now. Pure ammonia is being used for the fishless cycle. I've tested the tap water with different concentrations of ammonia added to see if my test kit (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Master) was working and it is. Any ideas of what's not working? Any other thread I read about fishless cycling see nitrites fairly soon after starting.

Patience is required this may take up to 6-7 weeks. You will find the ammonia start to drop soon then it takes more time to get the nitrification bacteria to grow and convert to nitrate.

The use of stability as per bottle instruction will speed thing up.

J

Looking very good indeed! Nice to have the tools to do that.

John

Would living in the tiny apartment stop you from having sex? :eh:

Well, if I shared it with a bunch of other people, I probably wouldn't. I'm not the type that likes an audience. But that's just me.

My sentiment exactly.

If the space you are living in is not ideal perhaps one might feel unhappy and or depressed and sex could be the last thing you'd want.

John

John, I agree with your initial assessment. My haps colored up and stopped trying to kill each as much when I moved them into the 150. I think your question about the 3" fish in the 10 gallon and the 12" fish in the 90 is also interesting. On that one I think it depends on the species. Some fish use more of the tank than others. I also think it has to do with the skiddishness of the species. I couldn't imagine my tinfoils growing to 10 inches in a 90 gallon because they would be smacking into the glass so much! I could see an Oscar managing in that 90, however.

BTW, Rocker, 14,000 tetras in a tank would be insane! :thumbs:

Who would want 14000 tetras? :shock:

I spawned some apisto cacatuoides in a 10 gallon, the male who is 3+inches was very unhappy the whole time he was in there. It did not stop him from fertilizing the eggs and being a good parent though. :smokey:

The lake kutubu rainbows.... same scenario; the male came from a 90 into a 33 he was P#$@$$d the whole time. Again no problem getting fry

I guess with some time the fish would do ok but would they have trived?......I don't think so.

John

Here is a subject for discussion.

I have noticed, as I am sure a lot of fish keepers have, that the fish behave different and seem more content,relaxed and happy as their tank size increases.

Sure stocking levels have an enormous impact. But on the whole they seem to do much better in a larger tank, and add to the owners enjoyment because they seem more content.

Sam Chicklet just posted some pictures of a fish that improved after being moved into a different environment for instance.

This brings into question keeping a 3" fish in a 10 gallon indefinitely for instance. Or a 12 " in a 90 gallon.

Opinions and observations please.

John

I feel your pain. I have been wanting to buy some good quality apistos for some time now. I have seen some at pisces, but they have never really caught my eye. Definitely not very good quality. I hardly ever see anyone selling them around here. I know there are some online stores I have seen them on, but that's about it.

John, do you have any pics of your parents? I have really wanted to get some cacatuoides.

Yes a bad one with an old camera from August this year.

I recall when I was much more active in teh hobby that htere were quite a few apistos available and generally in many different stores. I recently am trying to get back into the hobby in a bigger way and want to get back into the apistos but am having a hard time finding them. It is really ahrd way up norther where I am but even when I get to Calgary and Edmonton there does not seem to be a big selection. Is there still a good following of the dwarfs? I know when I lived in Calgary there was even quit a few folks in the club there that were breeding anumber of different apistogrammas. There are a few species that used to be popular that even seem to have fell out of favor, spcifically macmasteri and steindachneri. Let me know what you all think. It may be harder to get back into this side of the hobby than I thouhgt.

Look forward to others thouhgts on the matter.

DWaynew

I have spawned some cacatuoides orange flash a month ago:the fry are doing well. :thumbs:

John