geleen

:welcome: :welcome:

What's an acid test? Run some acid on top of the rock and see how it reacts? Would muratic work or something stronger?

Yes a reaction would mean leaching. Muriatic is great if you have some around, although vinegar also works to some extent.

Congrats!

At that size they could eat freshly hatched brine shrimp.

Spatiphylum and Chinese evergreen grows very well on top of my tanks, the roots are not too long. Anthurium does okay....Pothos grows fast and has long trailers I find them a bit messy after a while. I provide light for 10 hrs a day for them.

It takes more plants than you think too use ALL the nitrates produced by aquarium fish.... 6 healthy and large plants on a 70 gallon is not enough. I have 7 or 8 on a 180 ....it helps quite a bit but still not enough. Both tanks are heavily planted as well and the fish load is medium.

I started to use some bacteria to help with the waste. All of this does help with the WC, as I do less changes on those tanks.

I use guppy grass, duckweed and other floating plants in others and I think that this is more effective in large quantities..

The way that I beat the battle with algae in my non planted tanks was to get rid of my T5 HO lights (the main cause), perform large weekly water changes (the solution to pollution is dilution), and utilize organic eating probiotic bacteria.

I agree, lights and photo period are the likely culprit if one does 50 % WC

For the past couple of years or so I have been using a product manufactured in Calgary, called Bactri-Pond.

Interesting.... calculating for aquarium use, a bit tricky too measure. How do you do this RD.?

I am guessing mixing 1 gm per litre then dosing for aquarium size.......1/2 liter mix for 200 gallons?

John

Oxypro 8604 83 ave while you wait service

Oxypro west drop off pick a few days later.......phone them if that is still true

You have a talent Blake.

J

I have one like that. Silicone on the inside works tape it off apply and wipe to a thin say 1/8 band.

I have dealt with by lowering the water level by ½ inch

Thanks zoopkamol no expert here.

I have noticed the occasional"bruise" on the side of a few species. If it is the same -- it usually disappears again in a week or so.

No idea what it is but asumed rough play for dominance. My Parva male at 4.5 inches is always challenging and has these spots on a fairly regular basis. So do some others.

HTH

J

Welcome

A great photo, kitty's brain is in overtime. Georgeus betta

Right beside the dog dishes! you can throw away the water bowl and give the tank double duty :rofl: :cry:

Ditto don't worry about ph

people breed Angels in Edmonton water at ph 7.8 and I have some torpedo barbs for 4 years, they have grown to 6 inches.

Your puffer might be happy in a 5 gallon, that would free up your 20. You always wanted another tank....don't you? 😜

There are funnel meds...but what kind of fungus ...who knows without a microscope etc. sometimes caused by water issues i.e. lots of water changes. You could try http://www.kordon.com/kordon/products/chemical-preventatives-and-treatments-2/methylene-blue#compatabilities!

That does not look like ich perhaps a fungal issue

Jhemco.com

As you mentioned the filter does not have enough bacteria yet . A few options

Try to get a sponge from an established tank that will help

Quit feeding for 3 days then only once a day just a little they should eat it all in 30 seconds.

Do large water changes until the filters bacteria are established about 4-6 weeks.

Do not clean any algea,as it eats nitrates leave the gravel alone for a few weeks I good bacteria grows on it. once the tank is stable the brown stuff goes away

They are Aytinjo as far as I know, if you call ask Michael.

I will have some Pheudomogul gertrudia Aru II available in about 2 months. Very limited numbers. If you are interested I recommend a deposit to hold them for you.

They are not sexable at this time. I have sold them in the past for 25 a pr. at about 1 inch.

Ac 500. 3.5 cm

If you change it at ⅓ per week the fish will be unefected..make sure to rinse the new stuff well. It will still make a mess but will settle soon.

If its that bad, I'd say you're definitely feeding too much. Pest populations (copepods, snails, hydra, etc) only grow to the amount of food that is available. Cut WAY back on your feeding, and the problem should subside. Large water changes will help, too.

They were looking for food on the glass initially so they likely did not grow in numbers, just looked like it.

There is still an imbalance should clear with time and due dillegence

John

Simple is better , some bio rings and some floss on top with a coarse sponge in the bottum. Purigen is not as efficient as ceramic rings as bio medium, and is a luxury.

Smaller tanks do great with a HOB, above 30 gallon you could choose to use a canister.....Most are quite efficient and cannister wars are common.

A cannister is designed for 1 tank; if you want to set up a system with drilled tanks and a sump you can run all of them of the one pump.

I run most tanks onjust air driven foam filters but not to efficient in a planted tank as there is limited mechanical filtration.

J

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

You could try to grind a bit of food to dust and deliver it with a straw after you suspend it in a bit of water. I have used a syringe attached to airline as well.....you could deliver it in front of them. You could buy a 10 cc syringe at any vet I would think.