Drydock

I have a sump on my 210 and I'm pretty happy with it. I use plastic pot scrubbers and some bio-balls I scrounged for bio media and filter socks running off a loop on the return pump for mechanical. I have enough plants that I don't run carbon or zeolite.

I have 4 - 96W 12,000K and 4 - 96W Atinics and my plants are growing like crazy...

I don't turn all of them on at the same time... 1 hour atinics in the morning, leading into 9 hours of the 12,000 with the atinics off.

Cool,

So the container holding the pump is just gravity fed, right?

I am a repeat customer of Spencer, so no knocking him... but wild caught is exactly that.

The first time I bought some WC Cardinals, I had ONE come in with an external parasite attached to it. I quarantined for 10 days and lost several in my order, but not a single one once I moved them over to the display tank...

IMO, you have two choices. Pay a little more now, or pay a lot more later as many of us have experienced.

Looking forward to the updates. A false front cover is the next step in my project...

It ate the 72 and now sits in its place

Jason doesn't lie...

Flip, when you come by and get your pleco (Ahem.. ) I'll give you the tour.

wow nice stand and tank what did you buy the tank for? and what type of fish are in there?

I bought the tank to put fish in it...

A very nice gentleman gave me a very good deal on it.

I just added some German Blue Rams and some Red Laser Corys that I got from Spencer Jack.

Other fish include:

Congo Tetras

Emperor Tetras

Turquoise Rainbows

Lemon Tetras

Rasboras

I am looking for a 'centerpiece fish' right now. I'm not a huge fan of Angels and I'm not willing to do the work for Discus, so I'm still looking.

Hello,

Currently we have a 130 gallon outdoor pond with 4 small koi and plenty of pond plants. Because the pond is only 2 feet deep, we overwinter the koi in a 100 gallon cattle trough in our heated garage. I am wondering though if any body keeps their pond plants overwinter as well and what kind of set up would be needed. The types of plants are a couple of lillies, a mint plant, water lettuce and hyacinth. There is no lighting on the garage "pond" but would it work to set up just an aquarium and put a couple of UV lights on it?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Get a fluorescent shop light ( maybe 1 or 2 of the 4' units) and try the phillips aquarium and plant lights... You can probably set it all up for about $50.

Hello everyone,

I started cycling my tank 3 wks ago and for the past four days I've been getting low if not zero readings for ammonia & nitrites, and about 5 - 10 ppm for nitrates (using Hagen's Master Test Kit). Is it possible that my tank has cycled in 3 wks? I thought it would take 6 - 8 wks. I've got a 32G planted tank with 5 Long Fin Leopard Danios and 2 SAEs. I've been doing weekly water changes, and using something called "Step 2" from Pisces here in Calgary.

If you think the tank has cycled (don't worry I won't hold anyone to their word), what kind of fish work best with Leopard Danios? Although they're supposed to be schooling fish, these guys seem mostly territorial, although sometimes they'll group together. Some of my Danios have shredded fins do to fin nipping. Anyway, I was thinking 2 Discus, but will the Danios nip their fins too? Or maybe 2 Angels, but the fin nipping? Maybe 2 Gouramies (sp?) but I hear they're aggressive and I like my Danios. Cichlids are cool but they'll eat everyone, won't they? I won't be getting fish for a week or two but I'd love any suggestions until then.

Thanks all.

If you have live plants, they consume some of the waste products from the fish as well. If you haven't lost any daino's you should be able to SLOWLY add fish. Your tank is an equilibrium - it will balance the ability to deal with waste with what you put into it (within reason) If you suddenly add a bunch of fish and increase your bio-load, your tank will be off-balance again.

What you are doing in cycling a tank is starting from an unbalanced tank (no bacteria or ability to process fish waste) and building up those resources so that you can add a larger bio-load (fish). When people say that their tank is cycled, what has happened is that you have enough bacteria to deal with the waste load from the fish. When you add new fish, you add to that side of the equation, so you have to do it slowly so that the other side can catch up.

As far as what to add... probably some catfish first... corydoras? I don't know if Discus and SAE will be a good idea. Discus are slow and have a significant slime coat that sometimes are a target by other fish. Just ask specifically about that before you spend $$ on Discus.

You should also look at what temperatures your fish like. - Discuss need to be fairly warm (82 ish?) and some other fish and plants can't handle that.

Dainos are a fairly fast fish and you may be able to use them as a dither fish in an African tank or with gouramies (depends which ones) I wouldn't rule out either of those yet. Or you could always get a nice 10G daino tank... :thumbs: Aquariums are like lays potato chips - bet you cant have just one...

I bought a Jager and I was disappointed to see that it really should not be totally submersed...

other than that, no complaints. Just FYI

Try to keep the splash as low as possible when the water goes into the overflow, then into the sump - you'll lose A LOT of CO2 in that case.

That would be my concern too. Not sure if a CO2 system would even be effective???

I have been concerned about that. There is very little splash into the sump. (mostly to cut down on the noise) The drain pipe exits into a filter sock, and is below the water level. I run the level in the sump just above the baffle height, so there is no cascading there. The only place I am trying to eliminate cascade is into the overflow. I have about 2 inches where the water falls down the glass before it hits the surface and is collected to the sump. I'm playing with the valve on the drain, but it is tricky...

what all can i feed my pleco?

Same experience as Charles for me. My 5" common pleco devours zucchini. It kind of comes out the other end still looking like shredded zucchini... I have also un-thawed frozen peas, popped them out of that outer skin and lots of fish, including the plecos have eaten them that way.

I'm gonna try the Bok Choi tonight! I have been looking for new ideas what to feed them.

I have never kept a Betta fish before. I've been told I could add a single one to my 20 gallon community tank thats at work. Some people want a "pretty blue fish" in there.

Current contents are 5 rummy nose, 4 serpae, 2 B.N plecos (1.5" each), 2 african frogs in there somewhere (never see them), and I just threw in 2 small zebra snails.

Would that work? Any special considerations for one of those?

And don't worry, I have a place for the B.N's when they get too big, but they are sloooooww growers.

Bettas are slow swimmers with lots of fins... I don't like the idea of them in community tanks b/c the betta is just too big of a target for faster fish that might nip... rummy noses and the serpaes may enjoy the new target...

Here is the latest update

I have to put on the trim along the bottom and build the 'skin' for the top. My son likes to drop stuff in the sump so the doors are going to be priority #1

For lights, I have 96 W Power Compacts. There are 4 atnic and 4 12000 K. It was a Salt water setup when I bought it, so there is way more light than I need. I need to change out the bulbs anyhow, I'm just waiting to pay off the CC. :boxed:

The atnics come on first and go off last to simulate more of a sunrise -sunset effect. Not sure if it is really affective. I really like the look of the fish with them. The colors on the congo tetras and rainbows really come out it seems.

I am setting up a CO2 system for the plants, they are looking a bit weak right now. I'm expecting them to look worse before they improve. Lots of dark looking leaves and algae taking over on them.

I am looking for a big piece of driftwood to help out with the aquascaping and build in that illusion of depth. I wanted kind of a transition scene darker and lots of driftwood standing on the left, boulders of different size in the center and more of an open area on the left with lots of plants around the edges. I'll probably change my mind...

In the sump I am using a 200 micron filter sock (you see them more in SW tanks) for my mechanical filtration. I was really shocked this morning when I was turning it inside out to clean it when one of my corydoras bounced out. He's home again with no apparent ill affects. If he had made it into the sump, it would have been a nightmare to try and get him out with all the bulkheads and media.

I also have a 50 micron bag that I was using. I find that they clog up pretty quick and I can really tell that the water levels in the sump are down. Once I change it out, the level seems to come back right away, so it is going to be something I have to keep an eye on and maybe grab a couple more so that I can wash 2 or 3 at a time in the washing machine (no soap and obviously without any other laundry)

I also wash them before my wife knows what's going on so she doesn't have time to complain.

For bio media, I cleaned out Superstore of the plastic pot scrubbers. I also have a bunch of bio balls that I got for free. I didn't realize that everything floats and I was concerned about the water flow in the center section of the sump, so I built a diagonal partition that is removable out of egg crate and plexi that I shove all the bio media under. This keeps it submergerd and forces the water to move up and down as it moves through the section. On top, I have my heater placed here and I am going to be growing java moss in here.

Anyhow, it is a work in progress still, but I am pretty happy with it to now. Kelly out at the Reef Shoppe in Lloyd has also been a help. I got the Lockline and filter socks from him and I'll probably be phoning him for more stuff.

That is a good idea for the plug-ins, but are you not worried about the constant moisture the sump will produce under there with the outlets?

I used a 'waterproof' box for the plug ins. It is designed for exterior use. I also mounted it on the back of the drawers, and not on the back of the compartment where the sump is. There is a divider, so it should not be getting direct exposure to any spray.

I will be making a cover for the sump as well and the only spot in the system where water cascades is in the overflow. The water flowing into the sump exits into a filter sock and the bottom of the pipe is below the water surface. The idea is that it is quieter, and the less surface agitation I have, the less evaporation. (and less moisture getting to the electrical)

I have water in and some fish from my 72:

- Turquoise Rainbows

- Congo tetras

- Rasboras

- Lemon Tetras

- Kribs

- Butterfly Plecos

I have also ordered a bunch of fish from Spencer Jack going in:

- Red hook silver dollars

- Red laser corys

- Dwarf flag chiclids

I'm still looking for a really good 'centerpiece' fish to put in. Something that is relatively peaceful...

I'll post some photos in a bit.

I found these neat digital out door chrismas light timers at Home Depot last year for $24 bucks each. Since I often work very long hours I sometimes fail to control how long my lights are on.

To fix this problem I have a timer for each light and CO2 silinoid valve. To keep the mess of timers and cords under control I made a simple board which the timers are screwed to. The timers only have one screw lug so they are further restrained by 1/4"dowels. The 3/4" thick plywood board measures 16" by 22" has one single power bar with 4 christmass light timers plugged in. This board can still have 4 additional timers or aquarium sensor units fastened to it.

If you think this looks ugly I guess you could build this as a shallow cabinet.

This set up is firmly screwed to the wall beside the aquarium 24" off the floor. Everything electrical is neat and organized.

Picture???

Found One...

http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/kh-ph-co2-chart.html

The following table is from a finnish aquaria magazine (Akvaariomaailma)

When I was a beginner I did'n quite figure this up until I saw this

table, so maybe it will be helpful to somebody else too.

---

The relationship of CO2 , pH and KH

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

\ pH |6.0 6.2 6.4 6.6 6.8 7.0 7.2 7.4 8.0

KH\ |

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

0.5 | 15. 9.3 5.9 3.7 2.4 1.5 0.9 0.6 0.2

1.0 | 30. 19. 12. 7.0 5.0 3.0 1.9 1.2 0.3

1.5 | 44. 28. 18. 11. 7.0 4.0 2.8 1.8 0.4

2.0 | 59. 37. 24. 15. 9.0 6.0 4.0 2.4 0.6

2.5 | 73. 46. 30. 19. 12. 7.0 5.0 3.0 0.7

3.0 | 87. 56. 35. 22. 14. 9.0 6.0 4.0 0.9

3.5 | 103 65. 41. 26. 16. 10. 7.0 4.0 1.0

4.0 | 118 75. 47. 30. 19. 12. 6.0 5.0 1.2

5.0 | 147 93. 59. 37. 23. 15. 9.0 6.0 1.5

6.0 | 177 112 71. 45. 28. 18. 11. 7.0 1.8

8.0 | 240 149 94. 59. 37. 24. 15. 9.0 2.4

10 | 300 186 118 74. 47. 30. 19. 12. 3.0

15 | 440 280 176 111 70. 44. 28. 18. 4.0

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

| CO2 milligrams/liter

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

I don't use Co2 yet, (working on it) but I don't agree with the argument that a tank can be 'too small' to add Co2. I think the issue has to be looked at as supply and demand, not total volume. I can under stock or overstock a 10 gallon tank for the demands of my plants just the same as a 200 gallon tank...

A small tank is probably too small for a pressurized setup, but I agree with Trevor that you could try a DIY setup to see if it makes a difference.

I THINK that there are tables you can use and by testing your PH and KH, you can figure out roughly what your Co2 levels are. They may only give you a rough estimate, but it might be interesting to see what your Co2 level is in your tank now before you decide that's the issue.

your tank definitely does not sound overstocked, but how big are your plants? What types?

NUTS!

Hi,

I'm not holding out a lot of hope, but I found these eggs beside a piece of driftwood when I was moving some things around.

I have a trio of L052 butterfly plecos, and that's about the only thing big enough to lay these if they are eggs... There were a few more but I burst them in my curious investigation...

Other fish pairs I have in the tank... Congo tetras, kribs, corys turquoise rainbows...

I do use some root capsules, but I don't think these are from them... I haven't moved any plants lately, they burst and released a cloudy liquid when squeezed and they were definitely not there yesterday.

I am assuming that these are not viable, but any thoughts you may have could help...

I use a couple of the 48" T-8 Phillips Plant and Aquarium bulbs on my 72 gallon. I bought them and the light fixture at Home Depot. They are a bit 'pink' in the color they produce,and I have been happy with my swords and other plants as well. The Sherwood Park store has both T-8 and T-12 sizes and I believe they also had the 24" bulbs as well. You can check them out to see if something there will work for you.

I use the tropica liquid fertilizer and the root tabs as well. Happy with both, as long as you keep the capsules in a cool place. (right Jay???) :P

I don't even have the tank yet still looking for a used one I can afford, but I thought I would get started on the other things I will need for it.

Ya, I see why that is smart, but things can change depending on the tank you find. Make sure you aren't committing yourself to anything in particular until you have the tank bought and in place... (Don't ask why I suggest this )

I think the cheapest way to do a filter is to do a sump or a wet dry filter. It will take up more space though and you pretty much need a tank that has an overflow and drilled for your drain and usually returns as well. (OK, you don't NEED it to be drilled, but 99% of tanks that I have seen that use a sump have built in overflows and drains.) You can do a siphon setup, but IMO that is asking for trouble.

I love my canister (Fluval 403) but I am hoping my new sump will allow me to boost up my bio media and allow me to do more with it.

For electrical, I added a couple sets of plug ins, but I put an inline GFCI module at the beginning. Basically, it provides GFI protection to all plug-ins downstream form it. The bad side is that if one appliance trips it, they all go. But, better safe than sorry.

The GFCI unit was $30 at Home Depot, but is was way cheaper to do that rather than buy all GFCI plugs for the amount I wanted.

I also have an old mechanical timer that my dad was about to toss. I used it on my tank years ago and I'll be using it again for my lights. (If anyone knows here I can buy extra on - off clips for it, I'd really appreciate that.)

I bought this tank in Calgary earlier this summer. It has sat on my deck all summer while I built the stand and figured out where to put it.

The dimensions are 72" by 24" high and 30" wide. There is a center overflow into a 57 gallon sump. The lights are 6 96w PC - a mix of atinics and daylights that came with the tank. (Originally a SW reef tank)

I had to build the stand myself, and a big thanks to Jvision for helping me move it. The stand is 37" high - room for the sump underneath plus lots of storage.

Back view:

Front view:

The stand is 3/4" plywood that has been doubled up on the ends and along the back. Screwed and glued together to laminate it all. Across the front is 2 2x4s that have been screwed and glued together and then an additional brace will be added between the doors on the right side. I also added some 2x4 and 2x6 supports where I could along the sides

I also wanted a nice set of drawers for 'stuff' 2 shallow and one deep one. They are going to be covered up with a cabinet door, just like the other openings.

Here it is in the basement with the tank on top: (when I post it online, it all looks so easy...)

I painted the insides with white Varathane colors in plastic. It gives a really hard finish and I am hoping that it will be temporarily water tight in case of a leak. I also siliconed all the bottom joints up to the bottom of the doors. Hopefully I won't have to try it out.

The lights are going to be mounted from the bottom of the bulkhead and then built in to match.

Right now I am painting the back and 1 side (that's why the tank isn't straight on the stand right now) but I hope to be adding water this weekend.

For foam, I found some of those interlocking foam squares at Canadian Tire. One side gray, the others... rainbow. Rainbow lost the toss. The foam and bottom trim of the tank should be covered up by the trim board that will be added once I get everything finally into place.

Anyhow, I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

Full tank shot