Jump to content

Drydock

Edmonton & Area Member
  • Posts

    251
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sherwood Park
  • Interests
    F-words - Family, Faith, Fish...
    I love watching my boys play sports, bonfires and we just moved to the country...

Previous Fields

  • City:
    Sherwood Park

Recent Profile Visitors

764 profile views

Drydock's Achievements

  1. So I had to cut out all of the overflow plumbing in my tank. We have moved and the tank is built into the wall between the living room and the vestibule. There is no room for my sump filter anymore. So the overflow box is cut out, patch applied to the bottom and water tested - no leaks! The problem now is that I can't get the lines from the old silicone off the glass. It's too thin to scrape with a razor, but you can feel a difference when it is wet and you run your finger across it. I tried a bit of paint thinner... didn't even put a dent in it. Do any of you out there have any experience with how to get rid of these or do I just have to 'suck it up'? Thanks, DryDock
  2. Apparently GE Sillicone I is no longer available and has been replaced by a Dap product, but is not rated for 'continuous underwater use'. I'm going with this one: https://www.homehardware.ca/en/300ml-clear-multi-purpose-silicone-sealant/p/2031205 for the modifications on my 210...
  3. Drydock

    CO2 Regulator

    Myrdin, I used a regulator that a welder would use. There was one fitting I needed to convert the threads but it was pretty painless. It wasn't $250... might have been $150...
  4. Actually, in my sump, I find the pump side is the chamber that the water level moves up and down the most due to evaporation. I have my heaters in the chamber where the water enters as it is always at a safe level and I never have to worry about the level dropping and burning our a heater. Just my thoughts.
  5. Dustin, I had to learn about my sump the trial and error way. If you want to come by look and ask questions some time, PM me and I'll give you the tour and answer what questions I can. Roger
  6. Seems to me like he has a lot of fish that will compete for the same square footage. I think that they would tend to like the middle to bottom levels of the tank. I would rather see some other fish that would inhabit the top levels of the tank and provide some dither activity and some different activity in the tank.
  7. I have a deep sand bed in my tank (2" at the front, 6" at the back) and all I have used is playsand. I started my swords and crypts with a root fertilizer (Jobe's from Walmart) I decided against using any peat or mulm layer because I didn't want the hassle. What I have found is that in time, the plants tended to collect organic material around the roots. From my experience, I wonder if it is really necessary in the long run. (I also use estimative index and pressurized CO2) I am very happy with the plant growth I have had. So what would I layer with it? Nothing. IMHO. Just add some root tabs or sticks, especially to start out with. I hear that you can go to a place that sells sandblasting medias and get some different colors. If you wanted to get some smaller round pebbles, see what you can get from Burnco in a 1/2" or smaller rainbow rock or something like that. Just stay away from your limestones and crushed rock. I don't know how fast a rock or substrate could change your hardness. Obviously if you pH is low (acidic) you will speed up that process, but I think that you can keep it under control with regular water changes. Maybe someone else can comment authoritatively on that. Hope that helps...
  8. Drydock

    New to forum

    Go big or go home! Jeff, you are going to fit in real good here. :thumbs:
  9. If all else fails, there is an NLS flake... NC has some.
  10. Ya, does she know about the leak??? If you are already in hot water for that, might as well upgrade!
  11. Ya, my concern would be getting rid of the toxic residue if you used a chemical to strip the paint. I have painted, stripped, repainted and am now re-stripping my 210. (don't ask) I have used the razor blade and I have never scratched the glass... Yes, it is possible, but as long as you are moderately careful, it is probably the simplest way to take the paint off. As far as the UGF, I have had them in the past and always ended up taking them out. IMHO, they are a pain and detrius will still collect under the tray where there is no way to clean it out. Stick with the gravel and regular vacuuming. Or... go for a sand bottom and leave it be. Sand compacts tighter than gravel, so the 'leftovers' stays at the top. If you have good water movement, it will all get collected into your filter. If you have some dead spots, it is pretty easy just to do a spot vacuum to clean things up. I had a 72 with gravel and an UGF... then changed it to sand bottom. Way cheaper and as I said above, the UGF didn't last more than a year before I turfed it. Just my 2 cents.
  12. Are they turning white or developing a scale in them?
  13. The top of my tank is over 5 feet off the floor. I have lots of old T-shirts and a step stool... I am usually in there up to my armpits if I am pruning plants.
  14. Ya, everything comes out of the roots with a few to several 'stems' coming from the same point. From your photo, I would agree that we are talking about the same plant. I have a larger specimen that is rooted in the sand that would look pretty similar to that. I haven't been able to get it to grow more than 4 or 5 stems that reach the surface. I would really like to try and get it to have a nice full look to it. For me, it seems to do better floating than rooted. I have tons of it that grows out of the egg crate around my overflow.
×
×
  • Create New...