Baos

Whats the deal with killifish? I've had a few people ask me about them but havn't seen them in the lfs. or maybe I'm just not looking hard enough?

Where would I find some 3" rocks for the aquarium for cheap? Specifically a buddy has just inherited some turtles and needs to setup a tank.

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I've used my fair share of air pumps, I have about 5 that died or work some of the time. I'm almost to the point that I will buy a cheap air compresser, stick an air filter on it, and turn down the pressure for the fish tank. Whats a good brand or model that won't quit and will continue working on both sides of a dual air system. I'm looking to supply two 36 inch air walls and possibly a side accessory. Approximately 2-3 feet deep.

I recently purchased one off e-bay for 140bux, your savings is in the lack of their assembly. Besides removing chlorine, It removes everything else in your water. The combined ppm to the limits of my meter rate it lower than 20ppm. It's almost the same as distilled water. It will have no buffers(add alkalinity and ph down to establish buffers) and you may need to add some trace.(ups the cost) However I have heard of some brita filters that go right on the tap and remove chlorine on the way out.

I travel all over alberta throughout the year(gfs family is south), generally edmonton, calgary, crowsnestpass, lethbridge, medicine hat, swift current(sk) It might be possible to detour my trip and pickup some of these rocks if anyone wants, pictures might help =)

The fish are doing fine now. I've adjusted for a little more tap water to my equation. And thanks to my new ro machine, water changes are faster. As for finding fish that suits your own tap water... Well what would be the fun in that. Without the challenge of trying to adjust to their home environment, trying to breed them, and keeping a tank as alien as possible... well it wouldn't be a challenge. I'd own the same fish as everyone else which isn't really that interesting.

I decided to try an experiment. 2 buckets, one regular untreated tap water, the second only my usual amount of real clear ph down to reach 6.4. NO OTHER ADDITIVES NO RO ADDED. After aproximately 10 hours the tap water bucket reads at 80mg/l kh, while the ph down bucket reads at 50mg/l kh. I'll continue this experiment and see if it'll drop all the way to 0 in this state. I'm thinking this product must either mask the kh, or control alkalinity on it's own somehow.

originally for breeding blue rams. I have been told that soft water is better for egg layers. I've had them lay eggs several times but never get anything to hatch. Eventually I'll attempt this again. It's also the same recipe as the discus keeper in Sherwood park. btw the exact link of my ph down http://www.realclearproducts.com/Lwrsphprodspecs.htm

The fish are doing great... really great. but... after a crap load of kent cichlid buffer, I again have 0 kh. the test that should start blue, is starting yellow. I'm going to take my water to big al's and have them test it. I'm done adding stuff to my water at this point as it only seems to stress the fish. I am considering some water changes. oh, and a side note, now that I again have 0kh, my water is crystal clear. I also added extra ammonia remover crystals last night. My ph down that I use is real clear, it's a pond product and I use a very small scoop(1ml in diameter) aquatic bio science www.aquaticbioscience.com . It was recommended by the family pet store in Sherwood park for discus water. I don't keep discus yet, thank god.

My water is 60% ro water, 40% tap water(70 to 80 mg/l kh). I also used all the water from their 30g tank. so only 60g is new water. I keep my ph at 6.4. earlier today it hit 7.0 ph and with adding about half the container of kent cichlid buffer(and ph downing the mixture in a bucket) my water has hit 6.8 ph which might not be bad as my fish were definitely experiencing some water quality problems before that point. I kept the charcoal filters off for about 4 hours after adding my mix. my kh is currently 30mg/l My hardness is at 80 now, was at 60 before(which I prefer). So far no losses and not a huge amount of rubbing anymore. I also double dosed with prime for safety's sake.

I also used large rocks that were in the bottom of the 30g and it's old filter the emperor just below the 400. The biowheel didn't dry out either.

My live plants which aren't many is just a small floating plant, some bamboo, and lots of java moss.

picked up 2 bags of sil3 today 160lbs for $14 I think. It was exactly what I was looking for. I love the color. It's not that dusty either. I'll be trying to figure out the cloth background this weekend. I might also hit the river up for driftwood. know any good spots?

Hi,

I'm doing some planning (and lots of reading) in preparation of my first tank and have read some contradictory information.

I read that Bettas are compatible with Cory Cats and Tetras but I also read that they require different water temperature.

Bettas - 75-86F

Cory Cats - 72-79F

Tetras - 68-74F

It would seem I could have Betta-Cory Cats or Tetras-Cory Cats but not all three. Or am I getting too hung up on these temperatures and should be okay if I maintain a range of 70-75F?

I have my tetras in 81 degree water. not to say it'll be true for all. I understand most people keep bettas in little bowls on their coffee tables with no concern as to temperature.

x

I transfered a 30g from the fishbabysitters to a new 90g and added another filter thats claims to do 400g/hr. Anyways I think the charcoal took all my alkalinity away, I tested in at 0. after adding about 6-7 teaspoons of kent cichlid buffer for kh to a bucket, then ph downing the water and adding it to the tank. I now have 10 mg/l alkalinity. I kept my filters off for 3 hours. but.. I'm a bit scared the filter could take the new alkalinity out or something else is causing the water to be different.

All seasons garden center on whyte sells digital ph meters, also tds meters but for aquarium use I would pass on those. Most of the drip tests you do, you need to know tds of calcium, or.. ammonia.. but to have a meter add it all together, well... thats just useless except to tell you that you have 200 more dissolved solids than you did last week in your tank and maybe to tell you to do a water change, but maybe not.

fish-club.org threw an auction about 4 months back. I grabed a bag of geophagus iporangensis for 21 dollars.

I'm not big on the fake background thing. I'd be interested in hearing about some alternatives

not the greatest photos, and keeping in mind a relatively new transfer out of a 30g they were traped in while I moved. And yes I am looking for sand.

Is the clown still with us? during a heater malfunction I discovered that clowns could do alright in 90 degree water, at least for a few days. It's what I've done every time I've had an illness. After 3 days I did have one of my sae's pass away. I don't like the idea of trying to medicate any tank with clown loaches present. Also keeping in mind all my fish are warm water fish who are kept at 80-83 degrees.

You say you drained the water out from inside it? Where did the water get in, around the top? If the water can get in it DO NOT SUBMERGE IT!!!! Once it's dried out completely I'd use it again but you'd have to make sure it stays out. Whenever you break a heater or drop one in that's a hangon type, ALWAYS UNPLUG it first before you try to remove it.

I have had a "inexpensive" submergeable one which leaked water in . My fish were very unhappy and I had a hard time figuring it out until I reach into the tank while I had a cut on my finger. In the cut is where I felt the voltage. This heater had been putting voltage into the water and the fish were being zapped 24/7. As soon as the heater was out the fish got better. Others will report getting zapped seriously by broken heaters in their tanks.

like any electronic, once it gets wet, its done. for the cost of a new heater vs replacing all your fish and the headache involved, i would spend the money and just get a new one, its good "piece of mind", check the equipment section in the buy & sell

You wouldn't belive the things I've spilled on electronics, and trust me they are currently working today. certain components when bad can be replaced and resoldered with parts from radio shack. If a residue is left behind it can be sprayed and cleaned with circuit board cleaner. If it's just water, after it is dried out, and if it hasn't smoked, it should work. But to be on the safe side monitor the temperature in a bucket of water with the heater inside(hanging off the edge). Also pay attention to weird sounds or smoking.

Here's a few snapshots of my tank http://www.geocities.com/TelevisionCity/2034/fish/

You guys are not easy to find. I've signed up to about 5 fish boards before finding the link to this one on fish-club.org. I bought some geophagus iporangensis at the auction a few months back and well, this board is the only one not over 2 years old still talking about them. Are they hard to come by? And you think they'd be worth more than 5 bux.

I keep a 90 gallon tank with

4 corydoras sterbai (had them breed once)

2 clown loaches(plan to add a few small ones)

6 geophagus iporangensis (currently pairing off)

5 blue rams (need a male)

3 siamese algae eaters

1 rainbow threadfin(will add more, they died off during a ph spike)

water ph 6.4

The water is mixed 6L tap water to 10L ro water.

temperature is 81 degrees