Fisher

hey noot. how's the sil9 doing?

Distinct "in figure and landscape"? I'm pleased to announce the cabinet is strong enough to hold four empty artesians. See Exhibit A below. After a short discussion last week about matching the conduit color to the wall or to the cabinet, cabinet#1 is in place. The 25g is now on the other side. On to prepping tank #1. No end caps, no Warsteiner, no Hefe either. So we had to make do yesterday with Grolsch and Hacker Pschorr (and a siphon hose). The upshot? The conduit is now painted which means my BA was better than mendoza, I'm watching the end of the Saints/Chargers game with a cold Schneider's in my hand, and I'm replaying the good memories I have of the Thanksgiving visit we had with our son and his family. I'm a rich man.

Close. I was going to clamp the conduit to a 2x3 just under the top. I wasn't confident a single clamp that close to the top would withstand the leverage. Figuring out paint options has been an education. Priming the light stand tomorrow. End caps, end caps everywhere, but n'er a 1/2" to be found. On the upside, Happy Thanksgiving! If you're going to :beer: leave the driving to someone who hasn't.

Nice looking cat! I saw similar patterns in an abstract that talks about variants of P pardalis (disjunctivus). Wu does touch on hybrids in Taiwan; very provocative read.

A gizmo with two uses. :thumbs: Thanks for th tip!

Our province offers free well water testing for private wells used for drinking water. The chemical analysis will give you some objective metrics (including toxicity) that will help you assess your options. We have a 300g cistern which complicates matters for us. The smell can come from different sources, but well dwelling bacteria is a typical culprit. Our water is high TDS, ph, sodium compared to CDW guidelines... we thought it was high iron, but it's not. We pay $3.85/5g for water, and we only go though 5g a week for coffee and drinking. I don't know much about RO because our current circumstance doesn't warrant it. But I think your well metrics will impact RO maintenance....

Initially, I put four ¼” magnets into the panel frame, attached washers to the inside of the panel and checked the fit. I wasn’t confident in how snug the magnets held the panel, so I bought magnet cups to direct the magnetic field forward and increase the draw. The cups get pushed into a 3/8" hole. But I drilled each cup so I could run a screw through the bottom into the frame. The holes are countersunk so the magnet sits down in the cup like it’s supposed to. Reaming ¼” holes with a 3/8” bit tore some wood and scuffed the finish. I touched up the frame with stain and a Q-tip… right over the carpet. Luckily, no drips. I polyurathaned the panel pretty heavy, so I'm sanding out a couple run lines and drip drops. Apart from picking out paint for the conduit, end caps, warsteiner, and some Hefe-Weißbier, I'm in a holding pattern. The first length of conduit I bought, I had cut in half at the store. Then I discovered 5' was 30" too short. But I formed the fixture stand you see, and a mirror image for stand #2, in the first try.

Grunt work and german beer is a good pair :beer: and so are we. I'll let him know the idea wasn't mine.

It's a pile of work on a weekend when our family is coming to visit though

Maybe Here's the plan: Clear out both corners, Shift the center cabinet 7/8" to the right, Put cabinet #1 in the left corner, Reassemble the 25g in the right corner on the old stand, Assemble (and start cycling) tank #1. or, I suppose I could tie steps 4 & 5 together and just transplant the 25g into tank #1.

Thanks for pointing out their sale. We scooted through on our way north. But Cafe Amore Bistro was on our itinerary, so we passed on the AI bbq

I saw your canister at AI yesterday. Quite a unit.

the tank is 18" high. The light stand is 30 " rise above the cabinet top. The vertical bend is > 90o (to the inside) to account for sag once the fixture is attached. The horizontal bend also has a slight upward kick for the same reason. The camera angle doesn't show either. the horizontal bend is < 90o in order to center the front horizontal section, left to right, over the tank. The right end looks farther right than it really is because of the camera angle. See below. Originally, I wanted to flush mount the light to the conduit arm, but I haven’t found an esthetically pleasing way to do that yet. Plan B is to put a pair of hooks in the conduit and use the Hagen suspension kit that came with the fixture. My big surprise was discovering that wad of electrical cord on the Hagen Glo fixture is 10' long. That's plenty of cord to run back through the conduit, and out the bottom end inside the cabinet. Yay for small victories.

k I wonder where they got their burger...

If you're concerned that the frame will compress under the tank weight, and bind on the panel, then yes! Pine compressive strength is ~ 8400psi parallel to the grain. I reckon the panel will pop out. Once I set up the tank, I'll share any shortcomings I discover. I'm used to seeing dresses that are backless and covered at the front, not aquarium stands. So I wrestled with this design, and admittedly, I intended to sheet it all in. It's anticlimactic to see the wall when the panel is out, but backless allows me clear access to the walls and wall outlet. Thanks for the encouragement folks! I'm way over budget, and way over time, and I'm having a ball!

1/2" EMT couplings attached to the frame with conduit straps. The couplings have a centering boss on the inside that must be removed in order for conduit to pass through. Short work for a 12" bastard cut, round file. I'll paint the conduit after it's bent. The final height of the fixture stand will be adjusted here. There's 10" between the lower coupling and the bottom of the cabinet

The amount of flow resistance in two spray bars with 12 holes each is the same as a single 24" spray bar with 24 holes in it. Agreed, fewer joints makes for stronger construction, always. The T arrangement I described was to put a bypass circuit between the discharge and suction lines, close to the canister. That would bleed some discharge flow back to the canister and reduce the flow to tank. You conclusion is spot on! Any time fluid flow deviates from straight, flow resistance and line pressure increases. Flow resistance, suction or discharge, impacts the impeller chamber. Canister manufacturers design soft "over the rim" transitions for that very reason. Two 90s generate more resistance (and line pressure) than an unkinked hose following a gradual curve. Glue, as jvision already addressed, will keep the joints together. The FX5 User Manual says the stop valve(s) can be used to throttle flow to suit tank needs. With their impeller chamber design, I'm surprised it doesn't say how, or how much.

I was excited to see the cabinets side by side. The first coat of stain was too light. The second coat is what brought out the red. After seeing them together, I won't huck the project in the firepit and start over The cabinet is 3/4" longer than it was when I dry fit the frame because of the trim. Now it's a 1/4" too long to scoot back against the wall. (pith!) How-ebb-ah, the middle cabinet is off center 7/8" to the right. So once I shift it over, both corner cabinets will fit.

Whenever there is an increase in discharge diameter, the result is a pressure and velocity drop. That's what you are doing when you take your thumb off the end of the garden hose. Add more holes in your spray bar, increase the dia of the ones already there, increase the spray bar length and you increase the cumulative discharge diameter. The LV spot soaker (grin) is stuffed with poly mesh to help diffuse the initial discharge inside the ball. Very cool! If the metal makes you skiddish, you could build one out of a fishing bobber. PVC floats for fish netting are available down to 1.5" dia... How ev-ahh: One way to reduce discharge flow into the tank without throttling the discharge out of the impeller chamber is to add a bypass circuit between the discharge and suction lines. Water flows in the direction of least resistance. So a couple Ts, one valve, a foot of hose/pvc... and some clamps, assembled in the right sequence would allow you to lovingly vary the flow to the tank by redirecting some of the flow back to the canister. Maybe another millwright can check mah theory.

Hi Jessica_L. I was considering dwarf frogs not so long ago, and I discovered that dwarf frogs (genus Hymenochirus) and clawed frogs (genus Xenopus) are, at times, labeled interchangeably. So it's nice to find a website like this one, that tries to distinguish between the two, and tankmates for either. I can't find any info in that website that addresses inverts as adf tank mates (that I noticed anyways). However, shows one way to reckon that relationship. The tank in the video has plenty of plants which act in the shrimps' favor. But the owner is aware that her frog(s) see the shrimp as prey. Take a look at the video comments. She keeps both in the same tank; shrimp annihilation isn't the final conclusion.-f

I don't have any experience with the condition, but I understand the theory behind it. Your canister uses an impeller (centrifugal) pump to move water. In industry, impeller pumps can be throttled by varying the impeller rpm. Your canister impeller runs at a fixed rpm. The water that moves through the impeller chamber also cools and lubes the moving parts. If you throttle the suction side too much, your impeller will be subject to hydrodynamic cavitation. The pump isn't able to draw enough water into the pump chamber to keep up with the discharge rate. This creates enough negative pressure at the impeller that air bubbles form and implode on the impeller blades (which makes the sizzling sound, like BBs or marbles). It damages the impeller. When you throttle the discharge, water doesn't move through the impeller chamber as fast, so it 'slips' around the rotating impeller. *Fluid slip creates friction.* All impeller pumps do this anyways. But nominal flow rates prevent fluid slip from being a problem.

I'm forming the fixture stand from 1/2" EMT. It will run up the vertical strut in the back corner, and through the hole in the cabinet top. After about a 20" rise will be the first bend. I plan to run the fixture wiring back through the EMT, and into the cabinet. I'll run the canister hoses through the top too. The cabinet door still needs another coat of stain and some varnish. It's a removable panel that will look the same as the sides. Instead of a pull handle and hinges, it'll be held in the frame by magnets. The plywood has enough flex for me to use a "push to release" latch to kick the door out of the frame. It's almost time to cut up some sticks to frame cabinet #2.

Thanks much! I didn't plan to build any more than two. :shifty: But I might be convinced.

Trimmed the top with 1x4; the bottom with 1x3 pine. I decided against a hidden hinged door after I learned from a certain someone that Rare Earth was a magnet before it was the name of a band. The door is just 1/2" ply that sits inside the frame.