ubr0ke Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Apples and oranges...Terrestrial and aquatic....post a link dealing strictly with an aquatic enviroment..Where's your uptake rates?...In what conditions do plants uptake the most metals or minerals?...There are so many variables...light, co2, plant mass, plant type, ,growth rates, nutrients, stock, pruning etc. Edmonton's tap water has 60ppm calcium...Is there any plant out there that can uptake 60ppm of calcium before a top up? No.. Is it safe to say that if you filled up a glass of water with the tap..And everyday you replaced evaporated water with tap water that in time metals and nutrients would build up?..I know it is and without knowing the exact uptake rates of the plants in specific enviroments you cannot say that it wont in an aquarium as well... It alll comes down to water changes or no water changes....Is no water changes possible without buildup?...yes in a perfect system...But most of us do not have that so I suggest do your water changes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubr0ke Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 How do minerals "build-up" in an aquarium ?What specifically are these accumulating minerals? How are they aquired - by what action do they increase in number? The article in question stated that instead of doing regular water changes, one should "Only perform top offs for evaporated water." The mineral build-up we're talking about is in reference to this particular recommendation, and not suggesting that there is some sort of natural accumulation due to biological processes, etc., etc. in all systems. The article only recommends that "This no water change rule should only be used for tanks with high plant density." Would the plants use sufficient minerals to compensate for the accumulation from top offs? Potentially, in some high growth tanks and with some tap water parameters. However the article doesn't even mention mineral levels here, but instead warns us to be wary of CO2 fluctuations from water changes?!?!? the co2 issue is somewhat correct...But only applies to non co2 setups....Tap water has a fair bit of dissolved co2...this can simply be tested by checking ph of tap water in a glass then 3 hours later testing the ph again...The ph will rise .3-.4 sometimes more as gas is released...this doesn't mean you shouldn't change your water tho....just less frequently or when lights are off.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
werner Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Of course the CO2 will fluctuate. The article seems to indicate that it's a horrible disaster waiting to happen (?!?!?!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishclubgirl Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 How do minerals "build-up" in an aquarium ?What specifically are these accumulating minerals? How are they aquired - by what action do they increase in number? The article in question stated that instead of doing regular water changes, one should "Only perform top offs for evaporated water." The mineral build-up we're talking about is in reference to this particular recommendation, and not suggesting that there is some sort of natural accumulation due to biological processes, etc., etc. in all systems. The article only recommends that "This no water change rule should only be used for tanks with high plant density." Would the plants use sufficient minerals to compensate for the accumulation from top offs? Potentially, in some high growth tanks and with some tap water parameters. However the article doesn't even mention mineral levels here, but instead warns us to be wary of CO2 fluctuations from water changes?!?!? the co2 issue is somewhat correct...But only applies to non co2 setups....Tap water has a fair bit of dissolved co2...this can simply be tested by checking ph of tap water in a glass then 3 hours later testing the ph again...The ph will rise .3-.4 sometimes more as gas is released...this doesn't mean you shouldn't change your water tho....just less frequently or when lights are off.. Are you trying to say we should do our water changes in the dark?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubr0ke Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) Fluctuations are a not as much of an issue if they fluctuate at non limiting levels..which depends on light.. But if they fluctuate between non limiting and limiting levels problems occur..bba..stunted growth.. In non co2 tanks.. co2 remains constant at 3ppm with some surface agitation or airstone etc..with a water change levels could spike up to 15ppm..This is fine once in awhile...but to often and the plants have trouble adapting and stunt...thats when you see bba in a low light tank.. fluctuations seem to trigger bba.. If you were to do 50% water changes daily before the light cycle and as long as the nutrients were there the tank would also work...The light cycle would have to be shorter but the key still is consistency. Not in a dark room but when the tanks lights are off...hah This only applies to non co2 tanks...but ya I think water changes done after the lights turn out might be a solution to the co2 spike...If co2 is only usable to plants during the light cycle then im thinking by the time the lights come on again co2 levels will have returned to around 3ppm which is normal for a non co2 tank.... Edited July 6, 2011 by ubr0ke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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