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Ro Unit


jeremoose
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Hey all, I really want to get some CRS and CBS and I want them to breed so it seems I'm going to require RO.

I was looking at this setup:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Reverse-Osmosis-3-Stage-50gpd-Aquarium-Marine-Tropical-Fish-RO-Compact-System-/300742038978?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item46059f55c2&_uhb=1#ht_1966wt_754

Any reason NOT to go for something like this?

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Got one like that and it did what it's supposed too. For faster water production, also get a permeate pump. Makes the membrane life longer too and to don't waste to much brine water.

hb

Thanks for the help, I shall order it then.

EDIT: also if I have the desired TDS/PH can I pretty much forget about KH/GH? Sorry, I'm REALLY new to this water chemistry stuff.

Edited by jeremoose
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I have these water parameters and my CRS SS/SS+ are breeding fine.

Temp: 70

PH: 6.5

TDS: 150

GH/KH: I don't bother checking them.

I use a PH and TDS meter to check the water and every WC. I use PH Down as usually R/O is Ph/7 and use Mosura or Fluval Mineral for shrimps to add TDS.

hb

Okay thanks very much, this is exactly what I was looking for.

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I just use 100% R/O water and mineralize using something like Mosura Mineral Plus, GH Bee Shrimp GH+ or Fluval Shrimp Minerals.

I fine it is a lot easier this way and it ensure that get constant water all the time as tap water may fluctuate seasonally.

The pH in my bee shrimp tanks range from 4.8 - 6.8 but anywhere around 6.0 - 6.8 should be fine.

If you use an active buffering substrate like ADA aquasoil it should buffer the pH automatically to the above range.

If you have an passive setup using inert gravel or none at all, you probably do any pH adjustment outside the tank and might need to add something to keep it from jumping around too much. I used Ebi-ken Sosei, which is basically type of Fluvic powder to keep my ph aorund 6.8 in my tiger tanks. In either cases make sure you don't have any rocks that might buffer the pH up.

For hardness, get a GH / KH test kit and uses those values to determine your hardness.

GH: 3-6
KH: 0-1

TDS inside your tank can increase due to several factors (age, additives, food etc;) without affecting your GH/KH

When mineralizing your R/O water, TDS can vary from 100-200 depending on how "dirty" the product is that you use. When I am trying out a new product I usually mineralize to around 100 TDS and than test my GH and add more if needed.

For Mosura Mineral Plus & Bee Shrimp GH+ my GH is around 4-5 @ 100 TDS. With Fluval Shrimp Mineral it get the same GH at around 150 TDS.

Once you established those figures as a benchmark, you can just use a TDS meter for future water changes.

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