wtac

Unknown plant 1 is Cryptocoryne sp. Unknown plant 2 is Valisinaria sp. looking at the far left leaf Unknown plant 3 is Anubias sp. Not to sound like a bummer but they are in dire need of TLC. The pic under the amazon plant it appears to me like cyanobacteria on the gravel line. Usually a sign of a nutrient imbalance/deficiency of some sort. What ferts/supplements are you using aside from Hagen Plant Grow? Before you start changing bulbs and such, I think getting the plants healthy again would be a starting point and go from there. You will need an iron supplement for sure as the yellowing of the I]Cryptocoryne[/i] leaves. The Amazon sword looks like to me that it was grown emersed (leaves out of water) and the areal leaves are literally drowning. They'll naturally die off and new aquatic leaves will take it's place if the right ratio of nutrients are added. HTH Wilson

Very easy fish to keep once acclimated. Here in ON the cheapest that I've seen is $10ea if you buy 6 or more. When they first were available last spring, they were $60ea, summer $45 and now averaging $20. If memory serves me right, they were taken off the endangerd species list in 2002. I have heard that there's a farm or two in Singapore are breeding them, but can't confirm.

Saw this from another board. Tropheus in Sask

Can you describe how it fries and what plant(s). An increase in light intensity shouldn't give such a negative a reaction. I have a 25g w/ a 24"x12" footprint that's 1/2 filled with water with 130w of PC lighting over it and it's a jungle. It looks like the yellowing plants are Cryptocorynes, an Fe supplement should help. What plant spllements are you using and how often? How frequent are your water changes? What color temp was the Enviro-Lite? I'm thinking that there is a nutrient deficiency of some sort. When you increase the intensity, the plants' need for micro/macro nutrients increases. Also, you don't want to use the same photoperiod. Cut it down by 25-50% and slowly increase the photoperiod by an hour every 2-4 days until a)you get back to the original photoperiod or find that balance of photoperiod and unwanted algae growth. It's just going to take a bit of tinkering. HTH Wilson

Nice looking ray pelle . There's a few Czech ppl I know that are breeding rays with great success. The trick is having them shipped where the handlers don't put the boxes upside down. I know as I have put an empty vial inverted in a larger vial with colored water and sealed, taped to the inside of the boxes and the receiver has mentioned that the boxes have been upside down at some point. IME, Air Canada is the worst for handling here in ON. I'll try to get some info on water parameters (from Czech) for you. Wilson

Is it the only discus in the aquarium? If so then definitely it's some behavioral response to the light ing change if all else is "within check". Wilson

If water params are in check, poops fine, body colorations are fine and the only thing different per se is the changing to new bulbs, I wouldn't worry at all. IMHO, the changing of color spectrum/inensity will trigger some sort of behavioral response. Keep in mind fish and yes, even us humans, are photosensitive. To what degree and resulting effect will differ between species and individuals within that species. Since he's quite taken a liking to that space, it seems to me that he's taking claim to that space, the darting out and shaking is like most animals looking to attract a mate. In a natural setting is very typical. From what we see from breeding facilities, it's our only reference point and we forget that the are, in essence, a wild animal that we've "domesticated". JM2C Wilson

I'm not sure what prices are like in AB but here in ON, an 50gpd RO unit w/DI is ~$400 from the LFS. If you go to a place that sells stuff for potable drinking water (PDW), you can get the same unit for about ~$250. The inherent differences between the 2 are the porosity of the sediment and carbon cartridges. The LFS generally uses 1micron whereas PDW is usually 5 microns. Which is better? Of course finer the better but it will clog up faster and need to be replaced more frequently. You can either get a "tap" that you attach to the water line or get a faucet adapter that will feed the RO unit. I'd use the softened water to feed the RO unit as the RO membrane and the DI (if you get that option) will last much longer. Here's a link to help you with your decision. RO unit I'm not sure how much the LFS (~$0.69/gal in ON) or "bottled water" company, ie. Crystal Springs (~$5.00/5gal jug plus deposit), charges but I'd get some RO/distilled water that way or if you know anyone that works in a lab (university or business entity) you can get distilled or "millipore" processed water that way. Just bring lots of buckets w/lids . Or even ask the LFS if you can rent thier RO unit. Since you have an NaCl based water softening unit, you can throw caution into the wind and jut add the salt mix. I don't think you'll have much of a probelm doing that. HTH Wilson

It really depends on the type of salt that you are using for your water softener. NaCl will be fine, KCl you may get accelerated unwanted algae growth. I have a client that uses KCl for their softening unit and ontop of an irregular photoperiod and hair algae is the only issue that I've encountered WRT water softened source water. I have other clients (myself included) that use municipal tap water for their reef aquariums and no problems. Don't worry too much about hardening softened water. Everything you need to make salt water is in the mix as the LFS associate told you. Just mix, get the right specific gravity/salinity and you're in the right direction. I am assuming this is your first venture in SW, so going with that, use RO water. Start off doing everything on the right note and when you get some experience then you can venture off the beaten path. Just keep your lights off (or just use actinics) until you have something that will use the light energy. This will minimize unwanted algae growth. HTH Wilson

Can't wait to see the revamped project. Keep us posted . Wilson

It shouldn't make a difference. If you have the a tar ballast it should fire T-12's without a problem. When I had my 55g marine, I did mix T-12's and T-8's on HomeDepot shop lights and they fired without problems. Ask the LFS if you can return the bulb if it doesn't work out for you. HTH Wilson

No exact recipe. In a shot glass put in a teaspoon or two, add water, mix and suck it up. The important part is letting the Kalk powder do it's thing. If you can get some injected inside and then cover the hole that it retracted in with powder for at least 30 mins. HTH Wilson

Don't forget taxes and other F'd up surcharges. I did both sides of the border with drygoods and livestock and I paid more importing into ON, Canada.

Yup, it's T. buttikofferi. I see them alot here in Toronto in the "fish for food" market. I personally don't eat fish, except for fisn N' chips .

Sorry, you're looking for pond stuff....brain fart.

Very nice pelle!!!

I've seen Gold's Online there in AB. Try JLAquatics, they're in BC. JLAquatics I've ordered lots of stuff from them and have never had a problem. Since it's out of province, you save on the PST . HTH, Wilson PS: Hemi, I'm in TO. Nice to see an ON poster. I go to Orillia every now and then to visit some relatives up there.

Thanks for the info RD. I'll probably be in Calgary this summer to visit sis and BIL with the wife. Hopefully I'll get a change to peruse the shops and perhaps meet some of you folks. Wilson

I think it's around 300gph. Flowrate will decrease dependant on height for the output (head height), length of hose and number and type of elbows used. How's it running with the new part(s)? Wilson

Yeah, I was pretty PO'd beyond imagination. I wrote to Hagen and haven't heard a thing back. Shoulda listened to that voice in my head. Eh, live and learn. Anytime I have PO4 I use SeaChem PhosGuard over Kent PO4 Sponge. The round beads minimizes chanelling compared to the chips. JM2C Wilson

Those are pretty good prices. The IO 160g is $75 here in ON. IO's RC 160g is pretty whacked at $130!!! What's TM going for in AB?

I don't recommend using pH lowering products unless you have an understanding of water chemistry and buffering (kH) dynamics. The problem using pH down is that yes you can get the pH down to what you want but unless the buffer is "cracked", the pH will bounce back up. Depending on the difference in pH values, this will do more harm than good with pH fluctuations. Water softening pillows are ion exchange resins that "soften" water by lowering GH by means of exchanging Ca and Mg ions for Na ions. For changing pH, kH is the water parameter to alter and the most convenient method to lower it is to use distilled or RO water. In a nutshell, when you lower the kH, you can lower pH. When one looks at the literature on "what water parameters are best", this is under the older information where the the fish is collected from. Today, a great percentage of fish are farm raised overseas, bred in Eastern Europe or from hobiests in the area. As smokey mentioned, water consistency and overall water quality (just elabrating) is the most important factor. If you want to breed them, well, cross that road when you get there. Save yourself the aggrivation and headaches and don't mess around with pH altering products. Keep in mind, raising pH is 100x easier than lowering it. JM2C Wilson

I had PO4 problems and was given Hagen GreenX to try out from the rep. Crashed my tank the next day. After 6 months of getting it back on track, I gave up and shut it down. Lighting: 3x3' double NO FL 2xPhillips 03 Actinics 2xCoraLife 10,000K 2xCoraLife 6500K Filtration: Eheim 2217 w/surface extractor Fluval4 Internal Fluval3 Internal Enjoy what was Wilson

Looks like hell now as I have been neglecting the tank and aiptasia infestation but here it was last year. Hardware: 35gal 36x12x18 Glass Top Wrought Iron Stand CoraLife 210w PC lighting Fluval4 Internal Fluval3 Internal Rena XP2 VisiTherm 100w Heater Timers for PC lighting, 14hr for actinic, 8hrs 10,000K Maintenance:at the time... Water change every 2 weeks w/TM salt Kent CB-A and B 5mL every 2 days or more according to tests/coral/coralline algae growth Kent Iodine 5mL every 2 days Kent Zooplex 5mL weekly SeaChem Reef Plus 5mL every 2 days Livestock: *6 years old *Coral Beauty *Yellow Tang *6-Line Wrasse *Ocellaris Clown *Green Carpet Anemonae Green and Blue Star Polyps Red, Purple and Green Striped 'shrooms Brown Zoo Brown Palythoa HI Feather Duster 2 Serpent Star 2 Cukes Enjoy everyone !!!

Looking good!!! What are you planning to stock it with? Wilson