Crystal

:welcome: to AA!

Those are some nice fish!

The store labeled them as "orange hachet danios", but I believe they are called "Chela dadiburjori". Both my friend and I have tried to breed them, but to no success.

Just testing out my new camera (boxing day special - Merry Christmas to me! ). Way too many settings... over 100 pictures to figure out which worked best. Female blue ram: Male blue ram: danios & regal tetra: Finally a setting that could catch my danios... Why is it that the setting that works is the one you find last? ps: is there a size limit even though I am posting it on photobucket? I couldn't find one...

Awesome pictures! Wish I had enough room in my parent's house... Maybe when I get my own house. Curious, in the fourth picture, the arrowana in the top left - what kind is it? Sorry, don't know much about them.

I noticed some in my one tank too(the baby platy love them), 2-3mm long, thinner than a hiar. I don't think mine are planaria, I think they are some king of nematode?

:welcome: I am sure you will figure the forums out in no time! :smokey:

I hope to get the tank in about march or april, as my job will change to be more online and require less desk space. I just like to do a lot of research before getting into anything new . I can probably get a 10g, but unfortunately anything bigger just isn't possible. I am in a small department and there is very little room (and the only available room is on my desk). Simply no space for a larger tank or I would go with that. I figured since I saw several signatures with 10g convict breeders that they would be fine in them. After a little more research I decided to go with shell dwellers, specifically the multies. I believe 4 adults can fit comfortably in a 10g, or at least 3 in an 8g. Found a really helpful site for shellies: http://www.shelldwellers.com/index.php?board=2

I have a version of the multitank syndrome... I originally had a 10g, and upgraded it to a 55g. I added a 65g this year. The odd part is, I don't want a bigger tank... I want several 20s! Since I think it would be easier to breed certain species I like in them, but they just don't get along in a community tank when breeding. Anyone else have this version of multitank syndrome?

It seems shelldwellers are highly recommended. Any good shelldweller suggestions? What kind of shells would be best? My one attempt at a sand substrate didn't turn out so well (don't think I stirred it enough). How would coral sand work with them? Would Malayan Trumpet Snails help stir up the sand or would the snails be more trouble than they are worth? I am also considering the Honduran Redpoints, anyone have any experience with them?

I am considering getting a tank at work. My boss is easy going and I would easily get a 5G, if I try I might get a 10G ( I am aiming for the 10G). I have never tried cichlids before (though recently added a few blue rams to my 55g at home). The tank would have a HOB filter, lights, heater, auto feeder, gravel, live plants, etc. The water is probably 7.2 - 7.6 (same source for whole town). I am looking for a colorful, active, hardy cichlid that could live in such a small tank. I would prefer a cichlid that breeds easily (I love the babies! :heart:), I can easily transport the babies to my house when they are a few weeks old (5 min drive). I suspect I can only get one pair in the tank and have no problem with that. I was kind of thinking of kribs or red jewels, but not sure how they would do. Any other suggestions from those more experienced with cichlids? What kind of bottom feeder can be put in to help clean up? I hear snails are considered delicious, would an albino BN work? Though I suspect breeding parents may mean no other fish, period.

My tank smelled when it was temporarily overstocked, even with the carbon and 15% daily water changes. My HOB filter stunk horribly when live bloodworms (midge larvae I think) got into the filter. It also smelt a bit when the filter media rose above the water level. How many fish are in your tank? Is the filter "clean" (not clogged with something rotting in it)?

:welcome: to AA!

I used to have a small setup and breed guppies (100-150 fry a month). Almost my entire breeding stock died within a month - you could tell something was slightly wrong, and the fish would die in a week or so. Ammonia, nitrites, nitrates at zero. ph and salt good. Then I caught the culprit. It is some kind of very small leech-like parasite in the gill (not much bigger than the point of of an .5 mm penwhen curled up), I and several fish stores have been unable to identify it (though we also noticed that a lot of their guppy stock also had it). The gills seem to gape a bit more than usual and be a bit inflamed, a week later the guppy was usually dead - and you could occasionally catch the parasite crawl out of the gills a couple of hours before the guppy died. They can't swim, though they when falling they can alter their fall in a leech like swimming motion. You can't actually see the parasite in the gills, only when they come out. To boot, I tried over a 1/2 dozen medications (one at a time of course - then in combination when they didn't work) on the few ailing survivors, none worked. The survival rate was zero so I even tried 1.5 and double dosage in quarantine tanks with an extra bit of salt, the parasite still survived (I saw squirming them on the bottom after the host died). My entire stock was wiped out in 3-4 months. Funny thing though, the parasite never went after any of my other fish (platies, tetra, danios). But I tried to reintroduce guppies into my tank 2-3 months later, no luck - the parasite is still there, and I still see it occasionally behind one of those plastic breeding traps I keep my hatched spixis in (and that trap is over two feet above the bottom of the tank!). If anyone knows what this parasite is from my poor description, I would really like to know. Also if you know how to kill it I would love to know (besides squishing them when you catch them). Might have to take one to my friend in the science lab and see if she can't figure out what it is...

I have found several plans, and intend to combine them to fit my tank setup and preferences. Just so happens I go to the city tomorrow and should be able to pick up the materials. It will be 6 - 10 weeks before I start to see results - and even then it is more to reduce water changes than eliminate them. Almost all plans I found rated a fully cycled denitrator at 2-3 drops per second so it may not do that much - but any help is appreciated :thumbs: . I have my plans drawn and ready - now to get the materials and build it. Wish me luck!

Does anyone have any experience with denitrators? I have a 65g goldfish tank which gets 2 - 25% water changes weekly, but when I go away, whoever I can get to housesit just feeds the fish. My other tanks have enough plants to keep nitrates down if I go away. I can't ask them to do water changes - also the thought of one 25% weekly water change is tempting. I can't seem to find much information on them - but I did find one site that sold them: http://www.fishnfriends.com/FishSpecies/ac..._DeNitrator.htm How well these actually work? Are they reliable? I believe I could spend $200-300 if it would reduce water changes to once weekly. Or are there any other methods to reduce nitrates? Any comments, opinions, and thoughts are welcome.

I talked fish and wildlife, and from the sounds of it, it is easier for them to 'take the fish because its wildlife' rather than issue a permit. He didn't seem to want to talk too much about it, maybe he isn't familiar with those laws. He said he was going to wait until his supervisor returns from holidays on Monday and leave it to her... I know the US will issue permits there. I am sure there must be something similar in Alberta! The Fish and wildlife guy wasn't sure they would issue me the permit, so there is a permit, but what it is for exactly I am not sure. I am searching for it, but it is elusive, or maybe I am not looking in the right places... Any ideas on where I can look? Or does someone out there know the legislation regarding keeping native fish?

I have no predatory fish. My biggest tank is 65g, it has my 13 inch pleco and some pond goldfish overwintering. It would probably take it a few years to reach its max growth, but still I don't think a 65 gallon would hold it for long. I don't suppose someone out there would want it? I make it to west edmonton about once a month. Are there any other options?

That looks like it. So I have a Lake chub and a white sucker... The lake chub will stay about the same size as my goldfish, but the white sucker will get 2 feet long. I will not have the room the white sucker will need when it is full grown. These are native fish, what are the options here? I know there is a law against releasing them, I am not sure of the laws that regulate keeping wild/native fish in aquariums. Do you need some sort of permit? Or am I better off calling the local fish and wildlife people here to see what they say?

The lake chub fits exactly. I didn't think they sold those in pet stores... The second one really has me wondering now. The second one has no whiskers, and doesn't stick to the glass at all like the plecos/algae eaters do. It picks at fish food, plants, and rests on the rocks. The pond is on our deck, and none of my close neighbors in the area has a fish tank that I know of. I am beginning to wonder if some fish from the nursery's dugout could have hitched a ride in with my water lilly.

This tomato was on the plant for 2-3 months. It is one tomato that kept growing and growing, putting out more and more lobes. http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...weirdtomato.jpg http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ormedtomato.jpg http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...edtomatotop.jpg It was the only tomato that plant grew all summer. Tasted great, but huge... It is sitting on a stove, the black cicrcle under it is for a 9 inch pot. :shock:

I was emptying my pond and I found two 'mystery fish', both different species. Their origin was possibly plants from the pet store, though I really suspect the lilly from a plant nursery. Help IDing these mystery fish please. This one is a 'topedo' shape. About 4 inches long, looks about full grown. Gets along excellent with my goldfish, two days in the aquarium, and he is tamer than most of my fish! Would actually like to get more of these guys, love their shape and the way they swim! His scales are very shiny and reflect light with the slightest movement - entrancing to watch. http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ryfishes009.jpg http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ryfishes008.jpg http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ryfishes006.jpg I am guessing this one is some sort of bottom feeder by the down turned 'sucker'. He is about 3 inches long and has that *look* of a fish that has a lot of growing to do - almost like a baby arowana. He is very quick and flighty, had to put him in a smaller container to get picts. http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ryfishes004.jpg http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ryfishes005.jpg http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ryfishes001.jpg http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ryfishes002.jpg I looked through many books and google searches and can't seem to find out who these guys are. Any one out there know?

This year I kept: Goldfish (but had to pull the fantails out at 68 - too cold) Rosy Red minnows Mountain cloud minnows guppies (removed at 60) platies (many babies from them) (removed at 60) Botia lohachata - Pakistani loach (removed at 60 - but an elusive one is still in there and temps have dropped below 50 at times!) Kuhlii loach (removed at 65 - do not let them get any colder) All lived well together. The guppies and platies are so voracious - no mosquito larvae in my pond. the mountain clouds cleaned up many small insects. The loaches surprised me, doing very well, but forewarned the Kuhlii loach prefers temps closer to 70 and above - I had to pull them when temps dropped. I actually saw a Rosy red jump 3 inches out of the water to get a fly on the wall! Honestly, I did feed them!

your timing is a little off... About 2 hours before you posted I cut most of the Parrots feather plant down to catch my warmer water fish - platies, guppies, and loaches. The pond at its best looked very similar to the original photos, just a few more lilly blooms and parrot feather plant had grown to cover 3/4 the pond (some of those stems were 6 feet long! :shock: ). But here are a few current photos... My first attempt at photobucket , this is a learning experience, please be patient... many photos were compressed pretty small by accident. If you have any advice about photobucket and linking pictures to here, please let me know... Overview of the pond http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ondoverview.jpg here is the very much trimmed parrots feather that once dominated my pond http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...rotsfeather.jpg Water lilly, leaves are going yellow from frosty temperatures we had http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...rrent=lilly.jpg My solar fountain! it's awesome, only works when direct sunlight hits 75%+ of it http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...rrent=lilly.jpg My calla lilly, nice red blooms gone, but each time it finishes blooming, it sprouts another bud column... The cold killed the last one before it got big http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...nt=callatop.jpg 'Guardian heron' keeps all herons, and other predatory birds away. Looks great too. http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/c...ardianheron.jpg As for overwintering lillies, no, I am a bit unsure of how to do it, but was planning on trimming all greenery off, wrapping in damp papertowel and putting in the cool(18-20C) toolroom over winter, is this right? As for reeds, i have Cattails, I believe their roots freeze solid over winter in ditches anyhow. I was going to put one in the garage (no insulation/heater) and hope for the best, the other I was planning on giving the same treatment as the lily and see which lived in spring. Any advice would be useful and appreciated. *nudgenudge*

Ok, I seem unable to find a short summary on aquarium chemistry, so I have researched and made my own summary. Many sites are contradictory and it can get confusing, and these are some of the most common questions I see asked. Please feel free to comment, correct, or add to it. Aquarium Chemistry PH: Ph is a measure of Acidity and alkalinity. The ph scale has a range of 1-14, with 1 being acidic, 7 neutral, 14 basic. Lemon juice has a ph of 2.3. Toothpaste has a ph of 9.9. Changing ph from 8 to 7 is 10 times more acidic. Different species of fish have different ph requirements. If you are going to change your ph, do it slowly or you could kill your fish. Ph swings are very hard on fish. Stability is generally more important than changing ph by half a point. Eg. A fish that prefers water with 6.5 – 7.1 could live in water with ph of 7.5, as long as there are no swings. There are a few fish species require that the ph be perfect though. Whenever possible leave well enough alone. It is often easier to buy fish that match your water. Raise ph: You also need a buffer to prevent the ph from falling to its original point. Material: Ph level: (also depends on amount added) Crushed Oystershell - 7.4-7.6 (slowly raises ph+KH) Crushed coral - 7.2-7.6 (slowly raises ph+KH) Limestone, seashells - 7.3-7.6 (slowly raises ph+KH) Dolomite chips Chemical Additives off lfs shelf - varies with product + amount Lower ph: much more extensive work than raising it, as you must remove buffering to prevent ph from rising back up to the original point. Material: (ending ph depends on amount of material and buffering ability of the water) RO, distilled water, or water from a tap water purifier - lacks buffering ions and salts – mix with tap water. Note: pure Ro water is very unstable as the KH can no longer buffer the pH effectively. Adding the salt to the water brings the KH/pH balance back. driftwood Peat (can be difficult for beginners) Co2 injection Hardness: There are two kinds. General Hardness (GH) sometimes referred to as Total Hardness Carbonate hardness (KH) is the measure of bicarbonate and carbonate ions in the water. This is the buffer – a measure of how much acid can be added before ph is affected. Hardness (and therefore buffering ions) can affect ph. The harder the water, the more buffering ions present, which means a higher ph. Less buffering ions, means lower a ph. Buffering: Dissolved minerals that help resist changes in ph. Provides stability for the ph. Measured in KH 75-100mg/L is fine for most tanks, and 100-200mg/L is ok for a higher ph. Increase Buffering: Stick baking soda in the oven for 1hr at 350F will turn it into pure Sodium Bicarbonate. Add 1 tsp per 10 gallons, check levels ½ hour later, add it slowly to avoid stressing fish. Ensure there is very little/no Ammonia or it will become much more toxic!!! Weekly water changes reintroduce natural buffering minerals/salts to replace the depleted ones. Decrease Buffering: Water changes with water lacking or low in buffering minerals/salts: RO or distilled water will work. Phosphate: detritus (dirt, waste, dead plant matter, fish food, etc) is the source of phosphates. These can bind with buffering ions and reduce the buffering zone and ph. Note: Phosphate also acts as a binding buffer, sudden removal of most phosphates will release the buffering ions and the ph can rise suddenly. Old tank syndrome is sometimes attributed to the slow rise of phosphates over time. When phosphates bind with too many buffering ions, it can cause the ph in the tank to drop. Nitrogen cycle: ammonia --> nitrite --> nitrate The establishment of the nitrogen cycle is what is happening when you cycle your tank. Ammonia and nitrites are very toxic to fish and in a new aquarium there are few bacteria to convert them into a less harmful substance. Nitrate is less toxic, but slowly builds in the aquarium over time. This is why the weekly water changes are so important. When your tank is cycled, there are a crew of bacteria to convert Ammonia into Nitrite and Nitrite into Nitrate. (was a nice chart I made showing the nitrogen cycle - but it is in word doc - will try to convert to pdf later and add it in) The bacteria live in the gravel, on the plants, and in the filter. When you replace your filter or if you wash your filter with tap water the chlorine will kill these bacteria, forcing the cycle to start over again. Use water changes to remove ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Nitrate levels will slowly rise over time, plants and algae may use some. In an aquarium nitrates in the water will produce nitric acid, which in turn will reduce the pH if there isn’t enough buffering capacity to neutralize the effect. Suggested ways to cycle your tank: Use some gravel from an established tank Put filter media into an existing tank for a few days before the new tank is set up Use NutraFin Cycle or other additives to jump start the cycle (adds beneficial bacteria) Use water from an established tank (up to 50% tank) In order for the nitrogen cycle to really start working it needs something to work with – Ammonia (fish waste). After the tank has been running for at least 1 week (24-48hrs if very impatient) you can add a couple of fish to the tank, 2-3 small hardy fish for the first 5-7 days, then you can add several more, and few fish several days after that. You will be rewarded for your patience. Too many fish too fast will overload your filter and can kill your fish. Test the water daily during cycling for ph, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. A small spike may be noted in ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, ensure it drops back down to 0 or near it. The cycling process can take 2-8 weeks. Sources: *http://www.aquahobby.com/articles/e_adjusting_pH.php http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=aquariumwaterhardness http://aquaweb.pair.com/forums/archives/lo....cgi?read=30543 http://en.allexperts.com/q/Freshwater-Aqua...akeing-soda.htm http://www.firsttankguide.net/ph.php http://www.myaquariumclub.com/naturally-ra...d-kh-18982.html