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dereks

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  1. Any chance you could get your hands on some Eretmodus cyanostictus?
  2. The top of the front slips behind the top moulding. I was originally going to embed a couple rare earth magnets into the 2x4's on each side on the bottom with metal brackets attached to the false front. Once I tried it out though I found I had built it just right so the mouldings on the sides of the front holds it with just friction - just luck I guess - works great! Not too sure how long of a span you can go with a 2x4 on it's side...would have to do some calculations re: your full fish tank weight.
  3. Thanks for all the comments. Wouldn't take much more to chang the size of it either. Just a matter of adding support between the corners as the length gets longer. Also, cost wouldn't go up significantly either, as I only used half of the 1/2" plywood sheet.
  4. I've been trying to cycle my 30 Gallon Tall. It'll be 3 weeks on the 31st and nothing seems to be happening - ammonia level has been steady at 4ppm since October 10. I have not added any ammonia since the initial dose and no nitrites have shown up either. I've got a Rena Filstar XP1 for filtration. Filter components supplied with the unit are installed. Dechlorinator was added to the water before adding to the aquarium and their is plenty of surface agitation. Temperature is set to 80F right now. Pure ammonia is being used for the fishless cycle. I've tested the tap water with different concentrations of ammonia added to see if my test kit (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Master) was working and it is. Any ideas of what's not working? Any other thread I read about fishless cycling see nitrites fairly soon after starting.
  5. I decided to make a stand for my new 30 Gallon tall (24" x 12" footprint). Some requirements: Low enough so my 2 year old daughter can watch the fish. Inexpensive Stained wood (I've always liked the look of maple, never really liked oak) False front for easy access to the canister filter and other storage. I came up with a quick plan and a list of materials (costs are approx as I threw out the receipts): 5 2x4 studs @ 1.56 each = $7.80 (this is for a 24" x 12" footprint) Box of 2.5" screws = $9.00 2' x 4' x 1/4" maple plywood for sides = $10.00 1/2" maple plywood for top and front = $40.00 Maple moulding/trim = $10.00 Stain = $5.00 Tools needed: Mitre Saw Drill Air compressor/brad nailer Wood glue Square Level Sandpaper Here's a drawing of the final stand plan. Corners of stands are actually a combo of 3 2x4 pieces. Longest span without direct support from underneath is 14.75 inches. First, you'll need to cut out the 2x4's: Bottom: (2) 21.75" & (2) 13" Top: (2) 13" & (2) 24.75" cut at 45 degree angles Corners: (8) 19" & (4) 22.5" Assemble according to plan. Bottom 2x4's are placed on their sides. Two of the corner 2x4's are placed directly on top of the bottom rails while one rests on the floor on the inside of the corner. Be sure to screw all 3 corner pieces to the top, bottom and othe rcorner pieces. This will make the stand very rigid. Cut out the 1/4" maple plywood into 2 - 24" x 13" pieces and attach with wood glue and brad nails to the sides of the stand. Cut out a 25.25" x 13.625" sheet from the 1/2" plywood for the top (you'll need it to hang over the top slightly for the false front). Attach with wood glue and brad nails. Cut out a 25.25" x 23.75" sheet for the false front. Add moulding around the top of stand. Add moulding around bottom of stand but do not attach the bottom side mouldings to the bottom front mouldings (this will allow the false front to come out). Add trim to the sides of the false front and to the back vertical portion of the stand. Sand any imperfections and stain desired colour. Add aquarium.
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