Blue Ram

I'm guessing by the size of your bottle (1/2 litre) that it is the hagen system with the ladder? If so, that system is meant for tanks 20 gallons and under. In a tank your size, this system will make very little, if any, difference. You can also try adding some seachem excel on a weekly basis.

I have both a 90 gal discus tank and a 90 gal tropheus tank. The discus tank definitely will require more water changes. I do two large changes per week - the tropheus tank - 1 change per week. I have had great luck with my tropheus - have not lost an adult for 18 months. My discus I have had for over two years. Feel free to PM me if you would like any other info.

Unfortunately a blackout is not an option. This tank is on a rack sharing a 48" light with two other tanks. I realize more current would help but the fish are very small (rasbora galaxies and a betta) and would not appreciate strong current. After doing large water changes, how would I go about increasing KN03?

I have a relatively new 12 gal cube tank (set up late June) that is infested with cyanobacteria. It is a freshwater tank that is very lightly stocked and gets a 25% water change weekly. It is receiving C02 via a pressured system. I have three identical tanks in a row with a Hagen HOT5 light over all tanks (48"). The wattage on the light is 54 watts. It would seem that everything is within appropriate ranges ie. water changes, light, etc. I have read some reports that even with the best husbandry on your tank it is still a problem to get rid of. Has anyone used erythromycin phosphate to kill this bacteria? I understand it is the ingredient in Maracyn. Anyone have any other suggestions? The other two identifical tanks do not have this issue.

Hit or miss. The good thing is amano shrimp are not expensive. Try a couple and see how long they last.

The zebra snail will help keep the glass clean but not the plants. If there is lots of cover, you could add a couple of amano shrimp. They will do a good job on the plants but not the glass.

For that size of a tank and the replacement cost, I would replace it. Is the tank still under warranty?

I'd watch the serpae tetras with the gouramis. They are one of the more aggressive tetras but with lots of plants you may be OK. I'd also suggest (gently) that your tank is now at its bioload with the exception of maybe a few oto cats to keep your plants free of algae. I also see you are looking for a red tiger lotus. I have a nice one for sale if you are interested. Also have some windelov java fern.

Is anywhere in Calgary stocking them? I'd like to get a few more.

Unfortunately you CANNOT treat a PLANTED tank with coppersafe unless you want to lose all your plants. It's most likely the new fish were carrying something that was not evident when you put them in the tank. The film on the surface is just excess protein that has not dissolved. Adding some more surface agitation will help but will also diminish some of the beneficial effects of the co2. Moving the remaining fish will not likely solve anything because all of the fish have been exposed to something. Some fish are better able to fight off disease if they are very healthy and depending on the disease of course. I would keep the tank as clean as possible, even doing a small water change every day. It is the best way to keep them healthy so they can fight off disease.

Good to hear from you Harold.

I have 10 sulawesi shrimp (both cardinals and yellow cheek) that survived my trip from Singapore last month while I was at Aquarama. They are doing well and I think they have grown some. I'm looking for some ideas on how to set up their home. I currently have them in a 12 gal cube (15" long x 18" high). I put some natural tan sand on the bottom which shows off their colour quite nicely. Since the tank is at 80 degrees and I do not want to use anything to soften the water (ie. wood, leaves or co2), any ideas on how I can aquascape the tank. I was thinking maybe of using some windelov java fern and golden nana anubias attached to rocks?? It is a beautiful cube tank I had custom made but they are a bit tricky to aquascape.

I have approximately 25 RCS that I started keeping about 3 months ago. A lot of them have grown to almost 3/4's of an inch. I recently started introducing some RO water into the tank when I do the weekly 20% water change to lower the ph. I can now see some shrimplets in the tank so I suspect there are many in there. How many shrimplets would you expect from one female at a time?

Well this morning, the EBJD looked better - its mouth is almost closed and was able to eat some veggie flake with its usual gusto. I don't think the oto has completey passed but it is a 100% improvement. I'll keep him on veggie flake so it's easy to digest for another couple of days. I guess I'd better catch the other otos before he tries that again!

I have been raising a EBJD I purchased 3 months ago. It is now double the size it was and is becoming a tank buster -it's now 4" long. Last night I didn't see it swimming around and when I spotted it - what the !!! It's mouth was completely extended - it tried to swallow an oto cat and it is stuck in its mouth/throat! I removed the JD from the tank and tried to take the oto out with a pair of sterilized tweezers - no luck. Put the JD back in the tank and no change this morning. Is there anything I can do? Will the dead fish eventually deteriorate enough for the JD to pass it?

I went to pick up another power bar last night to use with some aquarium equipment. I was at Canadian Tire and Revy and every power bar I looked at said on the box "not to be used with aquarium related equipment"? My question is why? I currently use 5 or 6 power bars on tanks. As long as you employ the use of a drip loop and your power bar has surge and shock protection, is there anything else that is necessary to make it safe? There is an article in the current Tropical Fish Hobbyist magazine that states: "A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFI) is the most overlooked piece of aquarium gear, and it could save your life or that of someone in your family. These outlets and plug-in extension cords shut off the flow of free electricity from a damaged pen wire or faulty connection (arc) before it can deliver a dangerous shock. Only one-tenth of an ampere of free electricity can kill a person with water as a conductor. This is why they are "code" in bathroom, garage, and outdoor receptacles". Can anyone clarify what I need to use and where to buy it?

Mark I bought some really nice shelving units at Costco recently. They hold about 900 pounds per shelf! They can be configured a couple different ways. Cost was about $80.

Replaced the O rings - no more leaks!

I am having the same issue with two of these filters. They have been set up and running for a long time. When the canisters are running, there are no leaks and the output is normal. When you unplug it, they leak really bad down the back side of the canister molding. If you plug it back in, the leak stops???? I have taken one apart and cleaned and lubricated the seal. It did not make any difference. The only thing that is missing from the flow indicator is the spring but I don't think that is related to the leaking. Could it be a pressure buildup since it doesn't leak when it is running? I'm pretty freaked out because if the power goes out, both of these filters will leak. Any suggestions?

OK.

Anyone have any for sale or know a source I can get some from? Need the smaller size. Thanks,

Thanks for posting the photos. They look great.

Anyone keeping these fish? They are relatively new to the hobby, are wild caught, stunning, expensive, etc. Spencer Jack has some available - no price yet - seriously thinking of getting some. I'm concerned about the apparent aggression between males. Profiles of this fish say to keep either 1 male or many. Anyone have any experiences. Do you think they would be safe with shrimp for a short time?

I don't believe FEDEX will ship live animals/fish.

What size of tank are you using to house all these fish?? Have you tested the water - what are the parameters?