Ron

Thanks

I'm interested in the 15,000 lumen light, do you mind sharing the company name or a link?

They aren't that fragile, I currently have 6 Eheim canisters running with the oldest around 8 years and I've never broken a ceramic shaft.

Decide on what you'd like to keep and it'll be easy to figure out a substrate to use.

No offense to the salt keepers on this site but you should checkout Canreef, lots of people with experience keeping salt in all sorts of ways.

Sorry, I assumed you'd be running a sump when I saw the outlet manifold.

Are the outputs going to be below the water level? If so, you should add a check valve above your return pump. You could have made everything with black PVC instead of painting but to late now .

You had shrimp in there already? Have you tested the ammonia/ammonium? ADA Amazonia will leech quite a bit for weeks, I usually cycle my Amazonia tanks for 4 weeks minimum with several complete water changes to get rid of the ammonium.

Nice set up, I love the driftwwod with fissidens. I think you may be SOL on the Mist Type R unless you can find someone who has some old stock.

You could always order a single lid for a 90-P and use one of each.

Nice, you should check to see if the lids will fit with the dual filters on opposite sides. My 75-P and 60-H (45) lids are pretty tight fits with only an inlet and outlet on one sdie.

I noticed you didn't have an ATO on your list; if you want small and less noticeable, have a look at the Smart ATO. If you want one with a back up float sensor, try a Tunze. I have an Avast Marine in the sump of my reef system which works great with my Apex but the back up float might be too big to have in a display tank. How many heads do you need for your doser? Neptune has theirs but it's only 2 heads. Jebao makes one with 4 heads and is only $100 USD.

Awesome, I would have loved to set up a 120-P but the timing wasn't right. Looks like you got a great list of gear, good luck with the build!

I was wondering about that. I can see the need for going slow when acclimating, but if ph and temp and TDS etc are all similar, I wasn't sure if there was any reason to add water slowly during a water change. So if I reminerized my water it would be ok to pump it in, maybe with a valve to slow the flow a little? If your new water has similar parameters as your tank water, I see no reason you can't pump it in. I've never had a problem with it in the past but it's your decision at your own risk. My remineralized water has a fairly low pH and my UGF system buffers it quick. Oh and I don't heat it to tank temp either......

I dump up to 6 gallons at a time. Easy to prep a full 5 gallon pail with remineralizers. Definite advantage of larger tanks, my water changes are usually 5 gallons and sometimes 6 if my tank happens to be low from evaporation.

So far I have 1 ADA 60-H (45), which is 32 gallon and a custom 35 gallon. I have another 60-H (45) and two 75-P (40 gallon) tanks to set up now and maybe another two 75-P tanks on the way

If you're not setting up a full rack full of tanks, I wouldn't bother setting up a system. Personally I only drip when acclimating new shrimp. I have a half bare bottom tank as my main PRL tank and I dump in 5 gallons in 10 seconds when I do water changes. I have a low tech ATO right now but before that I would just dump in 1 L to 1 gallon or RO/DI when I noticed the water level was low. I am moving to all display tanks and trying to keep them as clean looking as possible so no float valves for me. It'll be more work but with only 6 - 8 planned, it' should be manageable.

reefsupplies.ca http://www.reefsupplies.ca/online-store/True-Union-Swing-Check-Valve-1-inch-Slip-x-1-inch-Slip.html

One check valve should be fine, just get a clear one with unions so you can clean it easily.

Better make sure you have a ball valve and a union check valve that you can keep clean on your return line. If you don't, your entire tank will drain if your return pump ever fails.

Need to go over $250 for free shipping though.

I always go RO/DI but RO is fine. I like to start at 0 TDS, RO won't get you there. I like ones with booster pumps which will increase the membrane efficiency and reduce your waste water. I personally run 2 Vertex Puratek Deluxe 100 GPD units, it's too bad you missed a great boxing day sale on them.

You'll probably notice less than optimal water production if you have chlorine exiting your carbon filter. Chlorine will permanently damage your RO membrane if it is a TFC, I believe it's the most common type of RO membrane being used.

I knew jumpsmasher would contribute a great write up. Even shrimp that were once considered challenging are now pretty simple if you take the time and set the tank up properly and don't cut corners.

UGF plates are right on the bottom, reflections are playing tricks on you.