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Just leave the leaves above water just like you do in a vase.

Jerry, if you read through some the thread I linked to there is a lot of info. I'll give you a bit here though. My setup has 28 cool white Cree XML running running up to 1500mA (max by specs is 3000mA). My main power, 5000-8300k. 12 royal blue xpg running up to 1000mA. Mostly for the blue colour. In the future I woud use blue but not royal blue. 12 neutral white xpg running up to 1000mA. Mostly for the yellow colour. I forget the exact temp, but around 3000-4500k or so. I have three custom driver boards by O2Surplus. He frequents plantedtank.net. You need drivers or a way to provide the leds with a constand DC current. You can use buckpucks or quality driver of whatever brand you prefer. You also need a power supply unless the drivers are all in one units. Meanwells, Inventronics and comparible drivers are all in one. My drivers give me eight independently dimmable strings of LEDs. 4x7 xml and 4x6 xpg. The drivers have analog dimmers if I don't want to use a controller, or I can have full dimmability and control with the two controllers I have in the mail. I bought my LEDs, most essential parts and the heatsinks from LEDgroupbuy.com. I've never used Martin's stuff but it is just a less DIY way of DIY. Martin's are more just click them together. I had to hand build my fixture and it was painstaking. You can also use thermal epoxy or drilled heatsinks to make things easier. I went pretty all out on my fixture and it probably cost me about $1500 total. It does more than any reef light though.

I do frequent there but haven't come across that specific point. I'll keep my eyes peeled. Not saying you are wrong, just wondering if I'm gonna kill my LEDs.

Too hot and you seriously reduce the life, yes. But I haven't heard anything about running too cool in all my research. Do you have links for this? I'm curious as mine run from all the way off to full power (full power is about 50% of max recommended current for my particular fixture).

Huh? He didn't even ask about co2, so how do we know he isn't using it anyway? The bottle stuff isn't co2. Co2 is co2. The bottled stuff - metricide or excel is a carbon source the plants can use but it isn't even close to the same. Diy works for small tanks but on a 6 footer it would be hell to have enough bottles going. How do you use co2 without artificial light? Darkness plus co2 equal dead plants. You could try sunlight but good luck balancing that beast. Who's general consensus? I know many people using LED light that like and don't like it. It works fine if you like the look, etc. The technology is the same (save for colour) so I'm not sure what you mean by that? Just sayin'. Yes you can. I did it, but went way overboard. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/137085-led-build-6-tank-fixture-up.html

I wouldn't use less than three watt LEDs but that's just me. Those strips consume 19 watts total for 12 LEDs so I would think they are pretty weak.

For sure. I'm trying to get into the aquarium beautiful showing if it's ready to go, but anyone is welcome to come have a look. I'll probably have to steal some stems off you anyway.

Pretty much ran out of things that I can do for now so I pulled out my wood and threw together an idea of what I'm gunning for. I'll have to move it around some as I add the rocks but the idea is there. Let me know what you think... FTS From my entryway From my corner of the couch

It's just a GFI receptacle inside a weatherproof box. I was gonna run all my plugs through it, but if it trips then I lose everything. I haven't decided what to do quite yet. A bunch of GFI that are all independent would be best.

And finally...

Lot's of progress. Here's to pics! Aww yeah. This baby is all CNC'd and polished thanks to Jay.

Jeez, I need to get my butt in gear. I hope I'm ready for this year.

I've only ever used the fluval stuff in the box, but I've only used a sprinkle under the substrate.

If you have inverted U's from one tank from the next and suck all the air out you wont have any problems as long as the smallest U pipe can handle the flow rate. You could do a sump or whatever. I wouldn't do anything with undergravel filters just in case anything clogs. The hard part is keeping the U's inverted and in place. You have to make some sort of bracket. To get the air out you stick tubing up the U into the air space and suck/pump it out. The big dangers with this method is a clogged pipe, water level dropping and breaking the seal of the U resulting in the U draining and cutting the flow, and making sure the U doesn't get loose and once again break the seal. You can't use multiple pumps or anything like airstones with this method. A safer way do to the same thing is nipple all the tanks together will bulkheads and the water level will remain constant across all the tanks. Once again the nipples much be able to handle the flow rate so the water doesn't back up and flood one or more tanks. On the last tank you can pump right back to the first or have an overflow to a sump and then pump back to the first tank. You also can't use U tubes to step down levels. The water level must be constant from tank to tank and to transition to different heights you need an overflow of some sort. With overflows you can step down until gravity isn't strong enough to keep the flow rate up to that of the return pump, unless you have a large tube were slow moving water would flow in great enough volume to satisfy the pump's flow rate. http://www.plantedta...ish-bridge.html

Val's and water lettuce can become nusances in tanks with other plants. They will always spread and take over. Co2 with some dosing will usually get plants growing well even if the lighting is too dim without co2. Excel helps but doesn't come close to being as effective as co2 addition. You can try a DIY yeast and sugar solution to see if it helps. Anubias, crypts, ferns and mosses are good options for beginners. I've never met anyone with a brown thumb, only improper conditions.

Yeah, it's great. Minimal ads and noise, good content. And lots of traffic so you can get help quickly. I joined in 2004 when I first got into planted tanks.

Plantedtank.net is my fav.

Thanks. You gave me the idea!

Got the heatsinks at LEDgroupbuy.com. You can also get them at Heatsink USA. I found LED Group Buy to be the cheapest. I pretty proud of the fixture. I've put a lot of man hours into it. Over 15 hour just to drill and hand tap all the holes. Got the panels all routered, sanded and prepped for magnets. I'm a few short and I need to paint before I install them. I rounded the edges along the top and ends and added grips to help remove the panels. The magnets are pretty strong. The end panel barely stays up but it only wants to slide down, not pull off. The other four have twice the magnets should they should float well. I meant for them to sit on the floor so either way it doesn't matter. I have to spray them with sealer and then I have gloss white paint to finish it. Hopefully I will get a mirror like finish that is like glass when I'm done. I'm using oil based paint so everything should be waterproof.

Haha, well I'm into the fixture for a lot of $$$, man hours and pride so I'd like to use it. Whenever I upgrade it will be to a ready made fixture. The features on mind are pretty intense and would cost a lot to buy. If I didn't want to play with LED than the ATI would be my next choice. I'm into the fixture for around $1500 if you include all the bits and pieces, shipping, tools, etc. I bought a nice solder station and such.