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Breeding African cichlids how??


happeboy
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I guess I'm asking about what books or sites are good to get info about breeding and the setups needed or other tips. Specificaly I'm thinking of they species I have now:

Pseudotropheus sp. "Acei" (Msuli) - Yellow tail, Labidochromis caeruleus - Electric Yellow, Copadichromis borley - Red Fin Kanango, Pundamilia nyererei. Or what ever else I may get in the future as I seem to be ever expanding my setups.

I have some time as most are immature but I want to get ready.

thanks

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here is a good link:

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/breeding_cichlids.php

I have found that if you keep 1 or 2 males with 4 to 6 females of any given Mbuna, add water and they will breed. I have had no problems with any of my Mbuna spawning. I keep my water in check with regular water changes once or twice a month. I currently feed NLS which seems to bring out the best in my fish in colors and breeding habits. I never over feed.

the problem with Acei and Labs are they are monomorphic (males and females look the same). Its easy to tell the different sex of Saulosi with males being blue and females being yellow as they are dimorphic.

Mbuna are very easy to breed, just make sure you keep them in a 55+ gallon tank with lots of caves and rock work. If you have a group of these fish its generally easy to spot the dominant male of the group. As long as you have a couple females and not all males you shouldn't have any trouble!

Hope this helps!

nev

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I'd have to agree with just about everything Nev said above, but with one exception. I've found that it's best to either have one or 3+ males in a tank b/c if the only dominant male only has 1 subdominant he can take a lot of abuse and sometimes get killed, two or more sub's disperses the aggression more. All the fish you've listed should easily breed in a 55; I've had my P. nyererei fry spawning in their 20 gallon grow-out tanks and about 40+ others in with them. Your caeruleus may do ok for a while in the 30 (possibly quite a while as long as you don't overfeed), but the others will definitely outgrow the 30 and need a larger tank soon.

Best of luck with them!

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I should add...

Prepare to buy more tanks.

I started off with just an 86 gallon tanks but then I bought 2 10 gallon tanks for holding females.

Once the female is stripped (generally after >20 days of holding) keep your fry in a small plastic breeding tanks with an air stone. Feed only when their egg sacs are completely gone. I currently feed NLS growth to my babies. The fry are okay to keep together in the same breeder tank at the start but after a week its good to divide them in half and keep the other half in another breeder tank with another air stone.

after a week or 2 at most they should be getting big enough to let loose in the 10 gallon tank. I use a sponge filter on my AC intake to make sure they do not get sucked up.

I feed 2-3 times daily and make sure to do a 20% water change twice a week. If you find there is food left over at the bottom of the tank either feed less or get some baby plecos as they are perfect for cleaning up any mess!

Finally I had to bought a 30 gallon tank for grow out. Once your fry hit 1 - 1.5 inches you will either have to sell them quickly or move them to a new home where they can grow out. I find a 30 gallon works perfect.

I will wait until the youngsters get about 2.5 inches before I will introduce them back in the 86 gallon with their parents. This is if I do not sell or give them away before the 2.5 inch mark.

I have successfully spawned these Mbuna - Saulosi, Rusty's, Red Zebra, Polit, Afra's with this system.

I just got my first small batch of Lwanda (Peacock) babies as 4 of the 5 made it and started eating yesterday.

My goal is to breed the Pheno's (Haps) that I have been growing out since 3 inches. The male is about 5.5 inches and the female is about 4.5 inches now. I hope they will spawn once they get a bit bigger.

Good luck with everything!

nev

Edited by nevchewy
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