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L46 zebra


dpaul
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Oh, more tank parameters:

I am on well water. Out of the ground it is hard to very hard. 10 grains. I also have a lot of sediment...looks like coal flakes. If I don't filter my water, I get ANTS coming through the pipes! (GROSS) My well is punched through Limestone, so that explains my high pH and kH.

Anyway, I soften my water so it is soft in my Zebra tank. kH is VERY high. Thus, my pH 8.5 NEVER budges. Like I said, this tub is 85 gal...maybe 70 actual water cuz it's not to the very top. I tried mixing in over half RO water to lower my pH. Total waste of time. It didn't move. So I hope the Zebra is as adaptable as they say...and will breed too! ;)

So anyway, in Zebra tank:

pH 8.5

Water: soft <20

kH: over 430ppm

Temp: 85F

No iron or other metals that I know of. My well water goes through an earth aggregate sediment filter, then the softener.

What I can't figure out, is if I measure my pH immediately out of the tap, my pH is 7.6!!! I only wish it would stay there, but after a few hours sitting in a glass (or a couple of days sitting in a big bucket) the pH ALWAYS rises up to 8.5 and stays there. My LFS could not explain this, and I have no idea why this happens. When I got my water tested by a pro when I got my water treatment equipment, the pro said my pH was 7.6. And it's NOT my test kits. I have a wide range and high range pH test-tube tests and I bought the very expensive battery powered pH meter. All 8.5 in older water. Getting off topic, but have always wondered about this. Hmmm Anybody out there have any ideas?

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wandj. thank you for the excellant posting.

The pH rises _ This is a normal process. As the CO2 gasses off, the pH will rise.

You stated your water paramets are:

>>pH 8.5

>>Water: soft <20

>>kH: over 430ppm

>>Temp: 85F.......

If you drop the KH, the pH will drop and stabilize.

What are you refering to with this number>>Water: soft <20. GH or ??.

What equipement are you using to soften the water??.

Smokey

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Hi. I have one of those fanshy smanshy farm/acreage water softeners. Typical water softener salt. If I don't soften, I have so much Ca and Mg that I get white, flaky and heavy crud forming everywhere...especially my heaters. I know I can use peat, lava rock medium and driftwood and I have. But have not seen any results yet. I will try puttin peat in my Fluvals for sure.

And thanks for the pH explanation. Now it all makes sense. I read somewhere that there is little O2 in well water...cuz it's in the ground. So now I know why the pH rises after sitting...O2 is entering/CO2 leaving. Mystery SOLVED. Thanks.

I found my test results. I did them about a month or so ago.

My Zebra tank dissolved O2 according to my meter is 7. I assume that's good. One of those new Milwaulki meters. (Probably spelled that wrong)

If I used my RO unit, the pH is 6.9

GH is (using my softened water) 40ppm

My raw (well water) GH is 220ppm

My softened water kH is 430ppm mg/L

My well water is 370ppm mg/L

Calcium of my softened water is <20 (very low)

I had done an experiment with peat. I soaked some in a pail for a 3 days. Starting pH is 8.5 of course. At the end, it went down to 8.2

So it does work. However, if I have a tank that has been lowered to 8.2 by whatever (peat, driftwood), I would have to be very careful with water changes right? No?

Anyway. So there ya have it. I would like to meet Mr. Roberts. Would like to meet the guy who raised my fishies. ^_^

As for the Zebras, I hope they don't mind my wonky water. But I thought they would like the softened water over my well water no?

Also have 3 x 150 Watt heaters in that tub.

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I have been using peat conditioned water exculsivly for all my discus.

Blackwater.

I have a dedicated peat fiilter and I am designing an inexpensive model for the average person to use. Easy to build with material from any hardware store shelf.

Depending on the final water numbers; pH / KH - I want; a gallon of peat moss will condition an incrediable amount of water ... with no waste water [ like my R/O unit].

the model I am building holds two gallons of peat moss and will condition in excess of 700 liters of water to KH@ 65 PPM. Currently the KH I am using for the adult discus.

Raw TAP WATER IS

pH=7.8

GH=220 ppm

KH= 189 ppm

The tannins and humic acid from the moss are very benifical for S.A. species.

Smokey

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  • 1 month later...

wandj; Bob R.'s article regaurding the breeding of the L-46, zebra .

I would suggest you contact A.C.E. [Aquarium Club Edmonton]. Bob wrote an excellant article, and it was published in their monthly publication. They may have a copy of the article, in their libary.

TFH published the article. January 1995. You could try their site.

Smokey

B)

Edited by Smokey
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Hey! Thank you Smokey!

Boy you guys, do I ever feel stupid. I didn't know what ACE meant. I typed it in Yahoo! and I got some "african cichlids" website, so here I thought the article was on a cichlid website. And I couldn't find it anyway.

And get this...I just joined the real ACE (aquarium club of edmonton) just last month! See how I feel stupid? I am a club member and I didn't know what ACE meant. So I guess I can ask Gabriel. He is the librarian. These abbreviations mess me up! I searched for the article on the net through TFM (Tropical fish mag right!) and it looks like they don't have articles avail to see.

So I will email Gabriel. Thanks you guys. I'm not the smartest tool in the shed, so it's nice when people help out. :rolleyes:

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For any members who may be interested:

Bob Roberts _ Hypancistrus zebra, L-46.

Published in Aqua Babble, November, 1996; pages - 18 & 19.

Aqua-Babble is the offical publicatiion of the Aquarium Club of Edmonton.

Tropical Fish Hobbyist; 1995, January issue. published Mr. Roberts success; a very good article. :wub:

Bob was creditted with being the first person to have successfully bred the Hypancistrus zebra, L-46.

Quite an accomplishment. :thumbs:

Smokey

B)

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