damtrees Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 So im thinking of taking the shell off of my hot water tank and wrapping metal hose around the tank and put the shell back on then i will just have a loop from my sump around the hot water tank and back in to the sump. has anyone ever tried it i will have the pump hooked to a temp controller and when it drops it will kick in the pump what are your thoughts am i crazy or can a large tank become energy efficient i plan on switching all the pumps to dc and in theory this should heat for way less than 2 300 watt heaters seem to be on a lotI already have a hot water tank set up with a heat exchanger inside for a hot tub but would figure that to be way overkill for what I need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Znaika Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Two 300W heaters, even if constantly on, result in 14.4kWh / $1.3 per day or $39 per month in electricity costs. Factoring all admin costs you will end up with about $50. The cost of additional gas will be about half of that. Your monthly savings will be at about $25. Whether the effort is worth it - your call. Frankly, I would rather adjust thermostat and airflow registers to heat this room a bit better, so that your heaters took a break and left it at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marky Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 I have in-floor heating that heats my sump in the winter. heaters almost never come on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damtrees Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 thats a good idea i wonder if i just put a sheet of that under my sump how well that would work i always wonderd if domthing like a water bed heater would work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cullymoto Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 A few dollars spent on some ridged foam insulation, used as a wrap behind your background and on all sides of sumps goes a long way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DivineHammer Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 I have seen a few people who run a loop with a thermostatic control from the hotwater heater attach it to the bottom of their moster tanks then run it back to the hotwater tank again, seems to work on the big 500+ gallon plywood tanks so I can't see why it wouldn't work on a smaller set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayba Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 I have seen a few people who run a loop with a thermostatic control from the hotwater heater attach it to the bottom of their moster tanks then run it back to the hotwater tank again, seems to work on the big 500+ gallon plywood tanks so I can't see why it wouldn't work on a smaller set up. Works to heat my concrete slab. Costs squat to run. Can't even tell on the gas bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damtrees Posted April 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Total water volume is around 600 but might be adding another 200 to the same system so i think im going to give it a go as i will basically be using heat lost from my water tank to heat my tanks. Now all I need to do is find a way to store and heat another 200+ gallons every two days for water changes used to go out of the tap but run out of hot water to fast and the temp drops a more then id like I have to do like 3 100 gallons water changes every few days rather do just 1 big one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skynoch Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 How come your not using a heated drip system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damtrees Posted April 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 I was thinking about the heated drip but wasn’t sure how people are getting around not having to used prime with Edmonton tap water. the only other thing is id have to have a run a drain across the room as tank is situated on the opposite side of where the drain is located or id have to trust a auto top off to pump out of the sump when it gets to high. Thanks everyone for the fast and informative suggestions so much more to think about and a drip would make it that much easier may as well have to re think that one I have lots of DIY filter things but is that enough depending on what is in them to remove it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skynoch Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 When dripping with chloramine you would either use a filter rated for chloramine so I would use a sediment,carbon and then a chloramine for the 3rd stage or you could use a dosing system with prime. I've got some links for flowmeters and dosing systems that I have if you need it. If your really handy you could ditch your hot water tank and install a tankless hot water system. Depending on location of everything it would run you around 1500 to 2200 to do it yourself. Drip may be easier lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damtrees Posted April 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Im crazy enough to rent with big tanks though i did look in to installing a tank less hot water heater already as that was my first thought i was even going to ty a small one just for that reason then i would just take it with me when i move. I bought a stash of 15 or so http://www.homedepot.ca/product/ge-heavy-duty-household-water-filtration-unit/977705 from someone with about two full boxes of different filters for them I will look in to if I have the right filters or can get them for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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