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Sump and bio-balls


Guyzer
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Little about me:

I have had fresh water fish as a hobby for over 5 years and really want to start to get into cichlids and breeding. I have a 75 gal community tank with I wide variety of fresh water fish. (3 Clown Loaches, 2 Bala Sharks, 2 Iridescent Sharks and 3 Geophagus Jurupari) I live in Calgary and think this forum is better then the cookie cutter fish forums on the web.

I’m going to set up a small fish room (5 – 10 tanks for starters) in my basement and have decided to use overflows on my tanks and a central sump. I have 2, 30 gal tanks, 1, 20 gal and few 10gal tanks for now and I will most likely use the 10 or 20 gal tank for the sump.

My questions for you is; in the sump, would sponges and bio balls be enough mechanical and biological filtration for the amount of water I’ll have or would I need some activated carbon or a fluidized bed filter with it? I would also like some buffer filtration incase I want to add more tanks in the future.

Since I’m on a tight budget, does anyone know where I could find bio-balls at a reasonable price in Calgary? I’m kind of hesitant to got to the LFS for stuff like this due to their markup, however, if they have the best price, then my choice is made.

Can someone also refresh my memory about the ratio of bio-balls to water. Isn’t it something like 1 gal of bio-balls to 50 gal of water??

I have a lot more questions, but I’ll hold off for now. Thanks!!

Guy

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Guyzr, welcome to A/A.

Depending on the bio-ball size; 200 bio-ball = 2.5 gallons = ~100 gallons of fresh water. [ 50 gallons marine ] NOTE - U.S. GALLONS OR ~ 378 LITERS.

For the sump, why not use a good RubberMaid container[?].. Cheap and TOUGH!

Another idea = [ cheap and functional] :D

To receive the water - from the tanks - use a 5 gaLLON BUCKET TO HOUSE THE MECHANICAL FOAMS, BIO- BALLS , ETC.

Drill a series of 1'' holes around the bottom side - to let the water flow out of the bucket. This way the bucket can sit in the RubberMaid/Sump.

OR if height allows --- the bucket can be raised up off the bottom of the sump. Works well!!!

The water from the tanks will flow into the bucket, down through the filteration material, out through the 1'' holes. The submergiable pump will then pump the clean water back up to the tanks.

Material - MECHANICAL FOAM- use a fine foam [ can be purchased at any good fabric shop][see other posting for more details].

I like the 1'' thick fine foams - stacked 3 or four high. As the top foams collects debre, just remove/clean them and replace with cleaned foams. or have a bunch ready . nice to have spares.[cheap $$$>$$].

Three foams will ensure very clean mechanically clean water.

Below the fine mechanical foams - fill with the bio-balls. The more the better!!!!

You should have room for 4 gallons of bio-balls. [ in a 5 gallon bucket].

For buffer biological material - The Aqua Clear 500 foams are great. Just throw them into the sump and they will become seeded.

If the bio-balls prove to be too expensive - you can always use the a.c. 500 foams instead. [ in the filteration container][bucket].

Carbon can be thrown into the sump. in a bag. the water will flow though it. or in the bottom of the bucket. etc......

~ $$.$$

- 20 gallon rubbermaid container = $15.00[?] look around and get the biggest size.

- 5 gallon bucket = free

- fine foams - ~$12.00 for a square meter.

- bio-balls = ??

- A.C. 500 foams = $5.00 to $7.50 each.

- time = drill 1'' holes in buckets :P

HTH.

Smokey

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WOW!! Very informative reply!! Thanks!!

I think I will try your idea with the Rubbermaid bucket and the 5gal pail. It will be allot more cost effective then a 20 gal tank. One question though, where do you get the pails for free? I go to Home Depot and they want something like $3 - $4 each.

Thanks again!!

Guy

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I hear you on the cost of bio-balls. I have a DIY wet dry on my 180. I use a 40 gallon rubbermaid tub as a sump and one of those plastic drawer units for the wet dry tower, its been running for allmost a year with few problems (except a little noise)

The drawer units work awesome as you can drill them for drip trays and you have ready built media containers. The water is mechanically filtered in the first 2 drawers then bio filtered in a big drawer filled with bio-balls and lava rock. when the mech filter material is dirty you just pull out the drawer and clean or replace it.

Lava rock is awesome for bio material, tons of surface area and its cheap, buy a bag at home depot or a similiar store. The only problem is you might have to break it up into smaller peices. Big peices tend to dsrupt the flow of water and you may end up with dead spots in your filter.

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canucklehead, you wouldn't happen to have any pictures of your sump would you? I would like to see it. What is your ratio of bio-ball to lava rocks? Could you just use lava rocks? I think lava rocks would be even cheeper then AC500 foams.

I also want to try this DIY fluidized bed filter project I saw on the net. Another high surface area filtration solution. I really like the drawers idea. I hope you don't mind if I use it?

Guy

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One thing to remember .. it is the total suface area ... not just the surface -- of a - say a rock ... but the internial surface area. This is where a [500 style foam, etc] exceeds the total surface area of a non porus material.

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Guy,

i have no pictures of the sump, but basically the drawers sit in the rubbermaid tub. I had to remove the bottom drawer and cut the legs shorter to fit it in my stand, you could fill the bottom drawer with media as well but it would be submerged. I have probably 70% bio-balls 30% lava rock, if i was to do it again I would save the money and go all lava rock. I think the only reason people dont use it more is that it would scratch up an acryilc sump badly, but with a rubbermaid sump who cares....

Just remember to break it up into gumball sized pieces.

Hope this helps

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Thanks canucklehead. My fishroom project has been put on hold for about a month. I'll be using out Laundry room and My wife has asked me to tile it. So I'd rather tile it now then have to move 5, established fish tanks for a couple days. But when I get my sump built, I would like people's opinion. I like the idea of drawers for removable filtration and will use the rubbermade container.

For thoses who have DIY sumps, where did you buy your pumps for your sumps? :) I was thinking at Revy or Home Depot in the pond sections but haven't made it there as of yet. Thanks!!

Guy

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I have a quiet one pump for my return, I think it pushes about 1800 GPh, according to the chart and the head I'm dealing with it brings it down to 1500 GPh, which is all my overflow can handle, I think the "quiet one" name is a cruel joke, even under a foot of water its still pretty noisy.

The only problem with home depot pumps is noise and energy consumption, some of these pumps are not very efficient. Try online its usually the cheapest.

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My set up will be a total of about 125 - 150 gal. To utilize space, I'll be going about 6' high. I'll be placing smaller tanks at the top and larger tanks at the bottom for weight and might help with flow. I'm guessing about 800gph pump. I don't know the formula for height. Thanks for the help ... again!! :)

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HEAD HEIGHT - The maximum distance a pump is capable of vertically lifting a colum of water.

The output flow [gph / lgh] of a pump, at any given vertical height.

ZERO HEAD HEIGHT - the Maximum vertical colum lift.

Example - A PRO 4 Submersible pump/Hagen;

Maximun flow rate = 1500 Liters [ at pumps 1/2'' output port ]

Maximun water colum height = 147 centimeters [ at 147 cm. the pump can no longer lift the colum of water]. [ no colum diameter was given].

Therefore at 147 cm. the flow rate would be ZERO LPH.

I use the SUPREME 700 pumps / by Dannier.

700 Specifications:

Input: 1/2"

Output: 1/2"

Flow Rate at 0' Head: 700 GPH U.S. / 2646 Liters.

Flow Rate at 4' Head: 475 GPH

Flow Rate at 6' Head: 400 GPH

FLOW Rate at 12.5 feet Head: ZERO GPH / ZERO liters.

Water has weight.

HTH

Smokey

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