werner

Correct!

Yeah, the 'Cichlids' category got missed in some of the posters and ads. Probably just a typo. But maybe... a nefarious insider plot to sweep the category when there are no other entrants (Duhn duhn duhn!) <--- nefarious plot sound effects Better bring that angelfish.

Classes for the jar show include: Killifish Livebearers Bettas and other Anabantoids Cichlids Catfish All Other Varieties of Egglayers Junior Fishkeepers Nano Planted Tanks It's pretty casual- just bring any fish that you have owned for >30 days in an appropriately sized tank/container* (1 side must be flat for viewing). Tanks over 10gal must have their own stand. Fish entered by junior fishkeepers are also eligible in the other categories. The nano planted tanks should be 5 gal and under, and may be any shape. *Electrical hookups will not be available for lights, heaters, etc. You may want to bring a battery powered air pump.

I use a 5' ladder and sit up on top looking down. Great perspective if you have an open top tank.

I'm bringing plants, plants, and plants, a Fluval Edge tank, another bigger tank, possibly other stuff (gotta clean out the box o' fish stuff)? And $$$. Going to be buying some of the rainbow egg kits on Saturday too.

Yes. It's the "bow chicka wow wow" thing: freshwater shrimp reproduction

Oops- double post.

Here's a MAP to the community center (corner of Home Road and the Trans Canada.) Very easy to get to that side of the city via Stoney Trail.

Good idea- I tried to gas my fish a couple weeks ago. The only problem is that ninjas' shells dissolve because of the acidic conditions in my tank.

I know it's shocking, but some of us actually get together in person now and then. If you can't make it to the monthly CAS or ACE meetings, you can try the semi annual auctions.

The rate that peat softens and acidifies the water depends on its original hardness. Hard water may not change much at all unless you're using a prohibitive amount of peat. You should still look at RO.

I believe there will be bags of many sizes available (free?) to use for the upcoming auction.

Mix RO with tap water, then add CO2...

There have been some adjustments to the rules that should be noted: So basically, we want everybody to get their ducks in a row* before the day of the auction so there's less chaos! We will begin registering sellers at the Mar 8th CAS meeting. Your member # will be your vendor #, so get your membership renewed or purchased at the meeting! If you could use extra lots (if available), make this known when registering. Vendor forms and full copies of the rules will be available at the meeting, and should also be up on the CAS website shortly. * Yeah, yeah. Don't bother with the "we're selling fish, not ducks" jokes. That means you, fishclubgirl!

Our Spring Auction is coming up soon! (And don't forget about our special speaker presentations and jar show April 2nd.) When: Sunday, April 3rd, 2011 Place: Montgomery Community Hall 5003 - 16 Avenue NW (SW intersection of 16 Ave. and Home Rd.) Delivery of items: 9:00am - 10:30am Item viewing: 10:00am - 11:00am Auction starts: 11:00am sharp! Map

Since the problem is in the tank substrate, remove the fish (with the tank water) to another container. Then do water changes, water changes, and more water changes- but go SLOWLY. Large changes will result in rapid shifts in pH, etc., and can just stress the fish even more. Putting the plants in with the fish will help reduce the ammonia too. I'd skip the chemicals, they can just cause more swings and make everything worse. Then it looks like you have to get rid all that soil

Do you have an ammonia test kit? There are several reports from aquarists of Schultz Aquatic Plant Soil causing ammonia spikes.

What size tank and how long has it been set up? Are you using regular tap water? A pH of 5 is very low.

I believe that most plant weights are now made of zinc or zinc/tin because of the dangers of lead. The plant weights sold in North American stores, and those used by plant producers from Florida (for example) are probably just that. A plant producer in Asia may or may not conform to the same regulations and might still be using lead. Do you still have any weights that the dog missed? Paint/decorating stores should carry simple little lead tests (for lead paint). Maybe give it a try on the weights.

Household water softeners only remove the calcium and magnesium ions in the water and replace them with sodium ions. The water is considered "soft" because the standard test measures only for calcium and magnesium. However, the Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) of the water hasn't been reduced- all of the other minerals, organics, etc. are still present. RO/DI units remove nearly all of the ions, organics, bacteria, viruses, etc.

Aquaflora is unconfirmed...

If there are the right minerals in there, then it could be the culprit. Got a nitrite or nitrate test kit around? One of the bottles (#1? I can't remember which) contains hydrochloric acid. Put a drop on any questionable rock, and if it fizzes, it will contribute to a higher pH.

When removing the old substrate, you can just leave all that bottom sludge in the tank. Let it settle and add the Fluorite over top... instant plant nutrients. And yes, no need to cycle if there are enough healthy, growing plants.

Have heard all the stuff about the fine bubble method being better than dissolving the gas completely, but I haven't bothered to try it. I have a reactor that I like and have used for years, so I'm not fixing what isn't broken. As for stretching the CO2 dollar, I use a pH controller- the gas is only on when it's needed. Of course, the cost of a controller probably exceeds any gas $$ savings...

Some good diagrams on how to set it all up here.