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Here is a place to buy rare earth magnets. They can not be drilled so you might want the type with a hole for the screw. http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp...amp;cat=3,42363

My tank runs at 7.8 pH without CO2. I add the CO2 until my pH drops to 6.8 giving me 30 ppm of CO2 in the water. Your fish don't like big changes in the pH, so it might be best to lower the ph over a few days Good luck

The addition of CO2 will drop the pH of the tank. Usually dropping the pH about 1 point will give about 30 ppm of CO2. Basic setup of pressurized CO2: http://www.rexgrigg.com/regset.html F.A.Q for CO2: http://www.theplantedtankfaq.com/CO2_FAQ.html Full Sized Pressurized CO2 Primer by Walter Reed

Ohh... I forgot... I followed the instructions as posted above.... Then I found a slip of paper saying if you where using the controller for aquarium use, DO NOT calibrate with the 4.0 pH solution.

Here are the instructions... http://www.milwaukeetesters.com/pdf/SMS110-SMS120-SMS122.pdf You can test the controller with a glass of tap water. Just dip the electrode in. The ph should be higher and the solenoid should open and allow CO2 into the tank. The cord for the CO2 solenoid must be plugged into the pH controller. Make sure the CO2 is being shut off by turning up the dial until the gas stops flowing. I have used the same controller for all most a year with no problems.

Those sand hills are really awesome to see in person.

You will want a bubble counter and needle valve for each tank if you want to control the amount of CO2 going in. I have tried to use the gang valve setup for air pumps (with 2 or 3 valves and outlets), but they leaked CO2 all over. Here is a regulator with 2 or 3 needle valves-bubble counters... http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-regulators.html or a manifold setup... http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-mani...-splitters.html

Link http://www.buysell.com/display/732093/calg...394/6651394.htm

UFA stands for United Farmers of Alberta (farm supplies) http://www.ufa.net/

Those small lights are used for night lights... Here is a set of LED lights... http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/pfo-s671...ng+Fixture.html

You can get tiny measuring spoons (1/8 or so).

They will ship via USPS which is way cheaper! and they have really neat regulators with dual or triple bubble counters... for the plant addicted I wish I had ordered the bigger bottles, but I only change the liquid monthly (maybe) and it only takes about 5 ml of each liquid. The 4 dkh solution is easy to make if you have access to a centigram scale (3.33 grams--2 decimal places) and a fairly accurate way to measure the water ... You end up making 1 gallon of solution (baking soda and distilled water) which would last forever Here is the recipe for 4dkh solution... If you wanted you could make a 3 or 5 dkh solution as well, which would change the color-CO2 relation... ie the color would go green at 25 or 35 ppm of CO2. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/general-planted-tank-discussion/42429-kh-standard-how.html The double dropper is nice because drop checkers don't change color like stop lights... they slowly go from blue to green to yellow... so my shade of green could be way more yellow than the next... and if you happen to be colorblind it is a real bonus

You can try putting large grown plants in the tank instead of clippings. IMO if you have lots of plants in there, the fish won't do as much damage to each plant. If you keep stocking lots of plants in there, the fish get tired of them after awhile and start to leave them alone (except for digging). My fish are getting about 4 inches long and they don't do a lot damage to the plants now they are almost full grown.

I run 4 lights and my CO2 solinoid off just one timer. Plug a power bar INTO the timer and now u have a timer with many plug-ins

You should be able to find the Rea Sea CO2 Monitor just about anywhere. It is plastic and easy to clean. You should use 4dkH solution (baking soda and distilled water) instead of aquarium water if you want it to work properly. Here is the drop checker I bought... http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/ It is glass and has two compartments, one for the solution that changes color and a reference color in the other. The liquid comes premixed so you don't need 4 dkH solution, but their solutions are expensive. Drop checker before going into the water... About 40 minute later... same fish

FTLOABT sounds like something the gov't would use in a web address... The CO2 charts are calibrated assuming ONLY carbonate as the buffer in the solution. A drop checker is basically a real time pH monitor... As the CO2 goes higher or lower, the liquid changes color as the pH moves up or down. The drops used in a drop checker as the same chemical in a low range pH test kit.

I've picked doors A, B and C over the years. I'm now onto doors D and E... Amazing difference in the type of light between a T5 and the MH http://www.giesemann.de/64,2,,.html http://www.giesemann.de/76,2,,.html

I mix 1 teaspoon into a 250? ml juice container (old V-8 juice bottle) with water and then if I want 1/2 teaspoon, I just dump 1/2 of the bottle in. I have 3 bottles with N, P, and K (KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4).

I might have some extra plants depending on what you are looking for.

Sounds just like how my 45 gallon started... great growth off the start... few months later a bit of algae and the plants quit growing as fast. I was dosing the full line of seachem products at recommend rates for my tank... I found I need to get more CO2 into the water (I thought I had 30ppm) and more nutrients were needed. After adding more CO2 and switching to dry ferts, the plants started growing and I went from cleaning the glass weekly to letting it go for months without algae. I dose seachem excel (2x overdose), iron, and Seachem Flourish with the dry ferts supplying the N, P, and K. Your plants will grow when ALL of the required nutrients are available... If you are short on any 1 of the nutrients (micro-macro), then the plant will stop growing and the algae will start to use the nutreints... Dry ferts are available at some of the hydroponics shops (Edmonton-All seasons garden center). Look into EI dosing for dry ferts for amounts.

A lot of KNO3, some KH2PO4, a little K2SO4, and seachem trace, iron, and excel... Henry thinks I drink the stuff from the amount I buy

Do we win a prize if we get the question right? I pick door B...

Strange that I can run 2 times the dosage of Excel (10 ml per day) in my 45 gallon and I have 3 types of val (giant, tiger, 1 other) and none have any damage unless I pour it directly on them... I also had a 20 gallon with val in it and was adding 5 ml per day to that tank with no problems either (close to 3x).

They do look like the tiny pellets from tropica root "pills"...

BBA is caused by low or fluctuating CO2 levels. Overdosing Excel or maybe spot applications (syringe) of excel will kill it. You could start adding Excel every day to supplement your CO2. Make sure you have 30 ppm of CO2. Algae chart Most algae is caused by a lack of something, not an excess of nutrients. Aquarium Algae ID A timer for your lights can be found cheap on sale, just look for a 24 hour timer with 3 prong plug-in. You can run 2 or 3 sets of lights off 1 timer by plugging a power bar into the timer.