jewels

My WC Peruvian BN has no interest in the brushy stuff. He is always "on the hunt" as this is in with my Ameca colony that goes largely unfed.

That makes perfect sense to me. :smokey: Thanks Corvette! Based on that premise (assuming there is no supplemental heat to the sync's) I would think there is a magical low tempurature rendering this unit un-effective ?

I was going to post this under equipment. Over-equipped, in this case. This unit is attached to a industrial sized Co2 cylinder. It resides between the cylinder and the green house. I am curious as to what it is. The only thing I have seen similiar is a heat exchanger in a furnace or the equivalant in an AC unit. Perhaps it is a carburator? What it be?

Like a true Diplomat , , , Well Put. Excess is the rule of wrist in this case.

Sorry, these are commercial green houses hundreds of feet long. The C02 tanks are as big as a school bus. I too, wonder about the amount they disperse, , , the cuke pickers do not wear SCBA'S or the like. There is one down by Medalta Potteries, I walk my dog around there on occiasion. It really is something to see, I will grab a photo. Ineresting info here

Greetings from Canada's suniest city! Every greenhouse around here has a Co2 bottle on it - - Ten feet high and Twenty feet long!

I forgets. . . You may need to puchase a ( male) barbed output to connect the flexible tubeing Get the regulator and output first , take the output to the Ag supply then buy tube to match. "How do I reduce the tubeing to the diffuser ?" you ask Take apart a "click " pen stuff the writing end in the standard aquarium sized tubeing - stuff the threaded end on the larger CO2 tubeing Hey worked for me === how "techier" is that?

www.praxair.com MIG/TIG flow regulator model # PRS23508 Brass cylinder adaptor model # PRS27108 ( this gets you CGA-320 to CGA 580 ) Disregarding the original purchase my visits to that establishment are never more than five minutes @ a time. In my head I am not there for a fill ; I slap the bottle on the counter , the dude runs to fetch a full one, takes my forty five bucks , I am on my way. I have yet to get the same bottle back , yet I own it ? Curious. Renting to me is a cash grab. If you are buying a cylinder it is because you are tired of DIY. That indicates that you are in for the long haul. Bite the bullet - buy the cylinder and never pay "rent" again Full tanks @ room temp. are about 975 (? Kpa?) units they stay there forever until ( like a Ford truck ) once it moves off full and begins to indacate less than full -- you are almost out of gas. When running 24/7 you have about a week left

Go for it!! Once you have a pressurised cylinder you will never look back. I built an excellent system from a welding supply. The finite control is spectacular! I needed an adapter as the regulator was for - I think , NITROGEN GAS ?. I like, that with a customer owned bottle, I do not have to worry about inspection schedules. When it becomes empty I take it in for exchange, takes all of about five minutes.

Perhaps way off the mark, , ,but,,, When I start feeiling this way it is time to refresh bulbs.

as for the lights, the compacts r giving out about 96 watts, r at least thats what the box says, & the t8^s r giving out about 23-25 watts, so i think i have enough but if i don^t please tell me. I have found light intensity to be the determining factor for the colour of my Rotala Indica. Less CO2, Less vits and Mins it can handle - - as soon as light intensity decreases they turn green again. Speaking only on what happens in my aquarium- 6 X 20W T4's will not keep them red. Interesting reading here

You may need six or seven of these to get up to two watts per gallon. Perhaps a good start.

I would concur. My 5lb 'r goes about four months, although the difference here is mine is tuned in with the needle and then runs non-stop until its empty. I just did some quick math ( accounting for shipping and a timer) , now it looks like a soleniod would pay for itself in about one and a half years.

How do Plakats feel about Cherry Shrimp ?

Wikkipedia thinks it is soluble ( also mentions it will precipatate iron ) This site seems to confirm. I pestle it and shake it, although it does not entirely dissapear. I do have a P test kit. I will try a few test concentractions/combinations to see if I can obtain predictable results. The quantity I have now will last about me 125 years. If if is not visably improving the Green spot algea I will dump the whole box on the Plum tree and buy something else !

I find all kinds of reference pages telling me how many grams of KH2PO4 will yield so many ppm. Looking closer @ KH2PO4 I discover in this form phosforus accounts for 22.7% of , , , what ,,, total mass? I have discovered P2O5 is listed @ 43.64%. Is this straight math? Assuming I had a gram of each - would P2O5 have twice as much phosforus? To futher complicate matters --would it yield double the ppm in aqueous? To summarize, may I use half the amout of P2O5 in place of KH2PO4 and expect the same concentration ( of P) ?

Thanks Folks !! I had seen that message before when I tried to link to a planted aquarium site. I assumed it was legit , , ,now I wonder. Note to self : Do not build model airplanes and post @ the same time :drunk:

I knocked off the last * from both links as I still could not post the question. That did not work so I used the space bar to separate the prefix - that let it post but still, I made one heck of a mess! I am still prepared to blame my end.

A.} Are links to Photo-bucket no Longer allowed? B.} Is my computer still a pce. of carp? This post received a "links not allowed to the website" error message I thought I was linking them in the same fashion I always have. F.Y.Intrest Thanks, I will try that! This was an observation to Address "better or worse ?" I have found the following events to be a very unique aspect of MH lighting The bulb is four inches from the water line. "Once they hit the top under the bulls eye" was a poor reference describing the crippling effect the plants had on the overall illumination intensity available to the rest of the aquarium. Stem plants directly under the lamp RACE to the point source so quickly that none of the other plants stand a chance. With bulb that close you could say - the rest of the 'scape is in the dark. The stem plants in the following photos were grown beneath the 400W lamp. The Hygro difformis on the lower right was planted from the same sized cuttings and on the same day as the Rotala in the centre. The Rotala took off quicker and went for gold! The Hygro nearly perished and only survived by book'n 'er left for sunnier pastures. I took the picture with out flash illuminated by 6X 20W 6500K T4's. I suggested two bulbs as I found with a center brace the light had to be situated to one side. Even the same plants further than a couple feet away just did not take off. Notice them taper off to the left in this photo "]taken with flash

I have used AP's substrate pellets, and I think they are tops! ( kinda fun to fire out of the applicator as well ). If memory serves - they are deviod of Phosphrous, so something to consider there. If you have buried the ferts, skip adding it to the water until you see signs of retarded growth. For myself with a nutrient rich substrate, if I add even trace w/ Iron algae takes over immediately A MH fixture will only illuminate about two feet of floor. A tank as long as yours would need two. I have also noticed stem plants grow like mad up to the water line under MH lights. Once they hit the top under the bulls eye, the rest of the aquarium is frightfully dark! Pendalum fixtures are nice but stray light is blinding from the source which requires a good hood to capture. This in turn requires cooling fans. This in turn makes maintanence a chore. I use a 400W ushio bulb for 6 hours a day in combination w/ tubes and it requires a $90.00 replacement every year. T5's are rumoured to last longer. Yes, @ that intensity the algae monster is never far away; but that being said, Green spot algae is the only kind I battle and of course it the hardest to scrub off the glass!

Thats a Christmas list if I ever seen one !! :smokey: Do not be afraid to initially fill it with whatever comes conveniently or inexpensively. Always plenty of time to find the rare gems. I have never seen a ugly healthy aquarium plant. They grow on ya' ( worst pun ever ) I noticed your Aquarium is equal in length to your list, , , Just out of morbid curiosity , how are you going about illuminating this tub ? No, wait, bathtubs are only about five feet !!

Are there anomalies regarding the Life Expectancy (LE) within species/families ? THF Magazine May 1997 reports a UK kept goldfish living over 40 years. Also mentioned therein is "Putte", a Swedish kept European Eel (Anguilla Anguilla) collected as an elver in the Sargasso Sea at an assumed age of three surviving an additional Eighty five years. I know little about goldfish but would imagine there are different individuals collectively referred to as "goldfish". Anguilla Anguilla; on the other hand is genuinely specific. I would know enough about eels to know they come in all sizes from all over the world and a vast quantity of environments must precipitate a somewhat equally vast duration of the average lifespan. I am curious about the similarities. I am curious about the differences. Two groups fish that come to mind are Cichlids and Kllifish. They come from all over the world, in all shapes, sizes, and life expectancies . Granted generalizations can be made. "SA dwarfs may only live five years". "Annual Killifish cannot blow out two candles". How closely related must one be to predict LE ? The gentleman who sold me my clown pleco's said he has had one at home for over ten years. Can I expect all of my pleco's to live that long? What if we were to examine a smaller group ? Mouthbrooders-- yikes !! To big Tropheini -- yikes !! To still big How about This ? Do these all have have the same LE ? Some are Huge !! Can not be that predictable. What about an even smaller group? Tropheus brichardi has no less than 16 variants. They all look the same , will they all have a equal LE? One could argue that some of the words I have chosen are subjective and serendipitously vague. That of course is true. The more closely you look at zoologies taxonomic ranks of superfamily, family, subfamily, tribe, subtribe, genus, subgenus, species, and subspecies the less room for error there is. Be that as it may, the next question is as easy as is it for you. Now that you have been keeping X-fish for a while how long do they live? What curiosities have you seen with near relations? Speaking only of fish mind you , , If you want to talk about your quear Aunt save it for a moderator or a PM.

Excellent comparison - here's another one Think raisin vs. bran From a visual perspective "Contents may settle during shipping" with sufficient agitation the smallest granules end up on the bottom and the largest end up on top

Would that also apply to other Tetra's ?

That is a serious arsenal you have put together there !! Looks like you are having a ball already. Good show. This is all top of the line equipment, you have obviously put a lot of thought into this. Apart from bulbs and CO2 refills you will not be replacing any of this for sometime. After reading the replies so far I would agree with werner's comments about increasing lighting. I hate to be a pain in the butt, and of course everyone is a skeptic I only submit that in terms of conditions that could potentially limit growth - the light intensity could increase. True enough, there is more light there than most planted tanks receive ; but this is not going to be the average planted tank is it? You have the right tools there to grow a food supply for your entire family !! I have used AP.com's substrate before and I love it. It is light enough for even the most delicate of bottom dwellers (Kuhlie loaches and shrimp have no trouble rifling through it) Remember always that it is inert and as such plants cannot live on it alone. Although I have never owned one it seems your CO2 sytem can be set to maintain a target Ph. Is that correct? If so, I would caution you about adding any solids to the system that are calcium rich or otherwise would effect ( by increasing ) water hardness. As I understand it , when Ph drops ( by adding CO2 ) the newly acidic water [neutral or basic out of the tap] begins to dissolve these minerals into the water. Here begins a vicious cycle as the CO2 controller dumps in even more gas to try and drop the Ph again. I do not know exactly how quickly this works or if I am a modern victim of urban legend. Hopefully I will be corrected if I am way out there . . . My last meaningful rambling tip is on plant selection. The more sections the plant is comprised of , the faster it grows. Plants that grow from rhizomes, corms, bulbs, or runners tend to grow larger leaves; and they do have there place, just not now. Find some plants with lots of tiny leaves growing two or three, or heck why not four at a time off the main stem.. Take them home and call them stem plants. Lastly, if you want to get really crazy, and I think you do! When you get these stem plants home please do not plant them !!?! Thats what they all want you to do !! -- -- RESIST !! Let them float and hang out for a day or two {watch you filter intake!} Then plant them SIDEWAYS I do not see other people giving giving this advice , but boy O' boy is it effective !! Why wait for one stem to build up to the water line? Put a stone near each end of a horizontal stem plant and watch as each segment roots and becomes its own stem !! Then grow them ten @ a time !! Best of luck -- you are going to have a riot !!