skynoch

This to me would also make the most sense. I haven't had the chance to play around with any chloramine problems so others will probably be more knowledgable. The only other thing you could look at is there are a certain type of fliter blocks when used with my one housing the water seems to bypass the filter which I solved by adding in another gasket at the top of the block. I had chlorine issues for awhile when this was happening.

Wow I've missed a few posts over the last while. lol. Haven't got any plecos yet but started to fill the bottom with bichers instead. Thanks Thank you. The system is on a drip system so none of the water chanhes are manual.

Amazing looking rays. I'm sorry your getting out of the hobby but fully understand. Pm will be there.

With plecos the damage usually comes at night,the pleco still may be the problem, if there might be a chance it is add a little shrimp at night and it will usually take that over a rays skin. I'm not personally familiar with rectics so I can't say how long they can go without eatng or not knowing the size of your ray. Most 6" healthy rays could go 2-3 weeks without eating. Everyhing seems to be in order so when in doubt with rays and unsure what could be a problem start with doing 3 days straight of 30% waterchanges conditioning the water out of the tank first and see if things get better. Keep us posted if you notice anything that doesn't seem right with the rays behavoir eg rapid or deep breathing, scratcing, coughing, stayin near the surface, ect.. There is definitly something stressing your ray but not sure what it is yet. If you are getting alot of algae then I'm wondering if your lights are too bright, your tank is exposed to direct sunlight or your nitrates may have been high recently. Besides the waterchanges also try keeping your lights off and covering 3/4 of the tank with a towel or something

Your diet won't be hurting her unless your getting your worms from a lawn that has been fertilized. Most likely the problem is coming from the pleco causing damage or stressing out the ray. Have you noticed any marks on your rays disc? What type of pleco is it? Your water quality looks good but out of curiousity when was the last time you changed the water in your tank and what is yur waterchange schedule like? Do you have substrate in your tank and if so how deep? Any other tankmates?

Welcome can't wait to see the pics.

Great pickup Trevor I would have snapped up these 2 sooner if had the space.

Wow Wayne your sr is a beast. The last time I saw it there was more red than the pics show. Okay I'm also a little envious of the tankmate, those white spots just pop on your pearl x motoro.

In a 55 you may need to do a small water change daily. You sound like you have the bio under control but you will still have all those nitrates to remove. I keep my nitrates at around 20 ppm and never let them get above 40 ppm. Keep the questions coming if there are any more.

Sounds like your doing everything right. I would remove the ammonia remover because all your doing with that in an established filter is starve your bio-media. Rays are very simple lots of filtration with lots of biomedia and lots of waterchanges. I never use any chemical filtration except for carbon when removing meds and just before I snap pics. I would feed in the evening just before lights out and once in the morning/afternoon for a ray this size. It will for sure eat more than 3 large dew worms a day at this size, probably at least 2 meals of 3 to start and add 1 extra a day until you get it figured. I wouldn't add another one to the 55 unless you want to start doing alot of waterchanges. Wait for the the 180 to get setup. Most laticeps are actually rectics but its hard to say what they are as laticeps is what alot of exporters label a bunch of different rays. Now how about some pics and congrats on what will become an addiction.

Probably not enough food. How big of a ray is it? Rays are measured by disc width. What size tank is it in? What are you using for a filter and how much bio media is in it. Was this tank allready established? What temp is it at? What are the tankmates? I usually feed my rays 2 times a day and usually try and feed a little extra off the start if the ray was a wildcaught. You may need to remove a little food after each feeding until you get the hang of how much to feed.

Glad you got it all figured out

One other thing I forgot to ask is what type of sand are you using or do you have any tile or deorations in your tank. Some types of sand will raise your ph or also some decorations can also.

Hey Glen not exactly understanding everything that happened but with a drip system your water should stay the exact same as the ph in Calgary's water. When you first start the system your ph will likely increase because your old tank water may have been broken down decreasing the hardness and allowing the ph to decrease. The worse thing you can do is add the neutral regulator into the water with the drip as all it will do is cause the ph to dip and then bounce back up to Calgary's ph. One thing you may have not looked at is with a drip system not all filters are created equal and it may not be the ph rise that killed the aros but maybe the filters are not sitting in the housing correctly or the filters life excectancy has run out allowing chlorine into your tank, get a chlorine test kit for pools and just check your drip to see if it tests positive for chlorine.

Is your 2200g tiled? It is tiled but not using the conventional method with kerdi. I just rubbercoated my tank with zavlar for 3 layers and then when that dried (allways dries tacky unless cured with U.V. light) I used the Zavlar and a 1/8" trowel and just tiled as you would with tile glue on a wall.

The finished color looks black when dry but turns brown when underwater. There is paint that you can put over it so you can make it any color you want.

I've used Zavlar rubber coating on my 2200 gallon build while others have used products like pond armour on thiers. I've seen people also use kerdi mat and tile thier tanks. All of these work well and will basically be up to you on whatever you feel most comfortable using.

Okay I'm way out of my league here and I didn't have time to read all the links, but from what I understand alot of fish allready have alot of diseases when imported that may never appear physically until stressed or something else happens to bring on the onset. So will the tests that they do detect these diseases and if they are detected is the whole group of fish sent to a better place in the sky? I would guess that once these fish are in the quarantine areas where they are first examined if they fail the tests they would be killed and not re-introduced back into the wild, which would meen they would have to go and collect a whole new batch of whatever was tested. To me we may be saving ourselves some problems with certain fish but causing other countries more problems than anything. I expect any of my fish that I bring in to have a problem and quarantine accordingly. We are never gonna rid ourselves of the people that think they are doing a good thing by releasing a foriegn fish into our waters but maybe we're better off spending the money instead of on inspections to education and licensing of the problem fish. Again way out of my league so knock the hell out of that idea,lol.

One of my best sources for my big fish Walleye Masters in Edmonton may be a good company to approach about any frozen food for our fish as they have seen a growth in business from the aquarium hobby and would probably be open to new sources. Again I'm thinking more a bulk thing than most hobbiests.

Sorry I missed that, I just kept looking at the pictures

great job I like the looks of all the colors. Do you have a link to this site?

Thanks Kyle, Ya that is the girl that you brought in. The female is around 27" and male around 17", it sure is alot easier to tell the measurements of them with them on the tile bottom. I know when she was in the pond I thought maybe 30" but now I know for sure. Hope the new home is treating you well.

Great job. Very impressive on the pro look you've accomplished. I like how you have the openings in the top, my acrylic is a pain in the @$$ to get anything in it.

Mom Dad A better picture of daa on the nls website under peruvian flower http://www.cichlid-food-canada.com/gallery.html

Thanks, I'm not sure there is another male in my tank big enough to handle that female yet but maybe I'm underestimating my males. They'll be in in your tanks soon enough. :shifty: