Fin

Burundi have six stripes and their one stripe doesn't make a mask on their face it goes over their noctal hump .The Kigoma 7 stripe is easy to identify as it has 7 stripes and the Mpimbwe can be mistaken for other Cyphos though they have 6 stripes their one stripe on their face goes into a mask kinda looks like a bandit mask .If you keep different variants of Cypho's and or Frontosa's they will cross breed and its frowned upon as this will create hybrids which most avid cichlid keepers hate A good place to check out a gallery to look at all the variants in Cyphos.com

RD's right about the C.Moori they are a great cichlid that doesnt get to overly aggressive and they are beautiful when they school together in a large tank From experience i picked out 15 juvies which 3 of those died just after recieving them still have the 12 now in a 220 gallon tank housed with some Fronts .The only time that i seen any kind of aggression is when the alpha male decided he wanted to get jiggy with one of the females.My largest one is about 5 inches now and it looks like there's definately 4 males that i can see now looking to cull some soon but i'm having a hard time deciding which ones

Great pic looks like they are having some kind of meeting LMAO

220 gallon 12 - Cyrtocara moorii 7 - Frontosa 4" - 6" ____________________ 77 gallon 4 - Aulonocara hueseri 1m/3f 3 - Labidochromis caeruleus 3 - Pseudotropheus demasoni 1m/2f ____________________ 27 gallon 11 - juvie Aulonocara hueseri ____________________ 10 gallon 25 - Aulonocara hueseri fry

WOW great looking rock work ! ! ! Sure would hate to have to take a couple of holding females out of that tank lots of grunt work taking those stones out ...Thats one of the reasons why i keep my rock work simple , so when its time to take the holding female out its less work

I know that you figured it out and have the filter running But when it comes time to do the regular maintenance theres one thing that you can do that will make things easier to restart the filter again ... Right beside the lock lever that locks the intake and out take hoses to the canister is the flow control valve before you unplug the filter shutt this valve off so that the water wont escape the hoses then unplug the power ...After you have cleaned the canister and your ready to restart things make sure that the canister is completely full of water , move the canister around from side to side making sure that all the trapped air escapes then top off with water ...Reconnect hoses to the canister then make sure to start the power first before turning the flow control switch on that way the pump has a head start with the pumping action then open the flow control ....Hopefully if you have done these things right your pump should be running fine now ..If for some reason that the hoses drain make sure that they are full before starting the pump again , you need this so that the pump has a head start and isnt working extra hard to get things running again ....I know this from first hand experience as i have the older version Fluvals and also the new version Fluval canisters ...Hopefully this will help