lukep77

Ok so I bought this guy a long time ago, can some one ID it for me. I want to fnd info on it and I was thinking of finding a couple more.

So I have decided to start with a pair of these, Julidochromis regani, now does any one have juveniles. And preferably a male and a female? And a pair of these Aulonocara baenschi, if any one has a male or female. Both juveniles, if possible.

Sorry I forgot to mention, that they were from a previous post. Yah I was going to consider them. But wanted to do a some research on my own and see what I came up with. Thanks for that post Fogelhund , really got me thinking now. Are any one these available locally or would I have to import them, or special order. I'm not overly concerned about which generation they are, as long as they are healthy. And juveniles are preferred, I would like to see them grow up.

Ok I have to know what is this fish. http://www.plecos.net/gallery/albums/userp...venestus-23.jpg , http://www.plecos.net/gallery/albums/userp...al_baenschi.jpg , and this one, And this one, http://www.plecos.net/gallery/albums/userp...0female%201.jpg And does any one have any baby's??

I know that as adults a 90 would be too small for 2 of them. But getting them when there 2 or 3 inches and watching them grow up would be cool. And Iam sure it would take a couple years for them both to mature.

OK so after reading and researching I have come to the conclusion that I will have to pass on the cichlids. I love my plants and after all the obsessing I really don't want to lose them. So I will have to look for some thing a bit more friendly for the plants. Thanks for all the replies. L

Does any one breed arowana's , and does any one have any baby's for sale. I'm not looking for any thing fancy, I was just thinking it would be really neat to watch 2 of them grow up in my 90g.

What about green terrors, would they eat plants???

OK so the pike's are out, get too big and too agresive with each other.

Well for plants its Vals, Alternanthera, Water wisteria. I was thinking of pike cichlids, Banded Apisto (Apistogramma bitaeniata), Red Empress (Protomelas taeniolatus), and Pices had electric yellow, and some very nice little blue ones, I cant recall the names at the moment of the blue one's. I will have to stop by tomorow and ask. I like the look of the pike cichlids. And the look of a nice high top fin. They sort of looked like these Copadichromis and these Labidochromis. But were all blue.

Ok so like the title says, What kind of cichlid can I pick up for my 90 gallon planted tank????? I want some that are blue, yellow, red and maybe purple. I'm not concerned if they are bred locally or what generation they are, as long as they are healthy, and nicely colored. But they have to be plant friendly, and the other thing, I don't want them to get too big. I want only about 15 to 20 medium sized fish. So nothing that will get bigger then 3 inches. I plan on removing my other community fish, and only keeping my rope fish, eel, clown loaches and pleco. I do have a sand bottom about 3 to 4 inches deep. And the plants are well rooted, so I'm not worried about the cichlids tossing the sand around. So if some one can post some names of fish that will fit, so I can do some research, that would be great. Thank you Luke

DSB does work. You can easily seed your sand with some that has come out of a established reef tank. Just ask for a cup or 2 from someone that has a tank that has been running for a year +. Or you could visit one of our local salt water stores and ask for a cup. I'm sure they would be willing to sell you some. In my opinion your best bet is to start slowly and work the DSB up. For example set up your equipment, sand, live rock and clean up crew, and keep a eye on your parameters. After about 6 months start adding critters that will live in the DSB. That way you can build up a population of pods, and worms. But you wont be able to add in any fish that will eat the pods or bristle worms, and what not, for awhile. And to be fully effective you absolutely need to put in critter's that will live in the DSB. You have to make sure that the DSB is being stirred up. Just my 2 cents.

Both are ture, the carbon over a period of time will start to leach out every thing it absorbed. And after a time the carbon just starts to collect all the crud. Iam sure you can run your carbon longer, but like I said most reef keepers only run it for a short period of time.

The only disadvantage of putting live rock into a canister is that the live rock will need a light source. And bio balls are the same as a canister filter, huge nitrate factories. They actually collect detirus and all the gunk you want to get rid of. A sump, with micro algea's, and a deep sand bed are your best bets for a healthy set up. Now if you are working with a small set up you can also build a small sump out of a HOB filter. Do a search on Can reef, for HOB sumps. And also check on reef cantral. A deep sand bed is a huge advantage, as long as you add lots of critters that will stir it up. Have a look at these sites. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/index.html & http://www.canreef.com/ You can do it like FishManTy, is doing it but you need to change out the carbon weekly. But that also depends on the size of your set up. If your doing it on a smaller system like 20g and down. It would work fine, but as soon as you go bigger you start running in to trouble unless you change the carbon out 2 or 3 times a week. Also most reef keeper will run carbon in a HOB for a couple hours once a week or so to buff the water, and remove some of the natural chemicals that corrals put out.

I hope I can just jump in and answer that question. The reason you dont use a canaster filter, or more acuratly the reason most people perfer not to use a canister is like Fatpuffer said they become Nitrate factorys. And the reason that that happens is that all the crud and deterus builds up in the canister and rots. Your ideal solution for a salt set up is a sump. So in my opinion save your pennys, and skip that canister. If you want to you can set up a sump on your fresh water tank now and when your ready just convert it to a salt set up. I recently took down my nano tank that had a sump and changed it all to fresh water planted with no mechanical filteration. Thats just my 2 cents. Have fun L

OK I decided t cheat also, Iam going to start useing Tropica Master Grow, just picked some up and I will follow the directions. Will post some more pics by this weekend when I get the rest of my lights for the sump. Thanks for all the great tips everyone.

For a skimmer I don't have a preference, but like I said do your home work and ask lots of questions. If your planning on going with a bigger tank in the future you might not be able to use all the same equipment. With a skimmer make sure that it will work for your 33 as well as a 120. Some skimmers designed for a lager tank will over skim your water and pull out too much good stuff with the bad. Sort of like leaving a uv sterilizer on your tank 24/7/365. It will eventually purify the water. About the Remora vs. the Berlin. They are both good skimmers, I would say just do lots of searching on the www, and bug all the sales people you can for answers. Also keep in mind that there is allot of experience out there with salt tanks, and that every one has a cretin way of doing things. So in saying that keep a open mind about all the info you get. And have lots of patiance.

Do your standard 25%, once a week. You don't want to change out too much or you start the cycle all over. And the lighting can wait. Make sure you have a decent set up for now with the rock only, but when you decide to get some coral, buy the high intensity light before the coral. But remember wait about a week after you make any changes to your set up, even light, test your water, then go and buy the critter, or coral. Protein skimmers are good, but make sure you do your research, there are some skimmers that are just useless. And it is true that you will notice a lot of junk coming off the water. But that depends on what you are keeping and what your bio load is. If you put a skimmer on your tank right now with just the rock for the first 4-6 weeks you will notice a lot of crud coming off and as the rock cure's and the die off fades you wont notice as much. Also check these site's http://www.wetwebmedia.com and http://www.canreef.com Lots of good info on both. I forgot to mention last time, with live rock look for stuff that is very porus. And all rock that the local stores carry is fine. I didint realy find a big diferance. Make sure to hit up Wai's He usualy hase some nice peices in a tank that is hidden in a corner. When you walk, in walk past the main display on your left, and then there will be the main tank that has live rock in it. Go around that tank and to your left. I belive he has a sign on it that says rubble live rock 5$. Check that tank I always found realy neat stuff in there.

That is the reason I dont want to mix my own. That and I dont want to mess it up. So is there a brand name that I should be looking for? And do I realy have to dose every day or every other day, or can I just dose once a week or so. I will look up Tropica Master Grow, and I know flurish already.

50 lbs should be fine. Set it up the way you want it in the tank before you add water. Have all the water you need mixed already and waiting. Then after you set up the rock in the formation you want add water. Then wait, and wait some more, for a total of about 3 to 4 weeks. For the rock to re-cure and to establish good stable water parameters. You can test during this process but the results will be the same high ammonia levels and every thing else will be whacked. Make sure you have lots of circulation, and you can use a small filter with some carbon in it but you have to change that out once a week with your water change. Now you can add a small clean up crew after the first week or so. That will help clear up the crud that will start to build up on the rock work. So do a water change once a week for the whole 3 to 4 weeks. Then after 3 weeks start testing. Once you have stable water conditions, start adding you critters. But make sure to add them one at a time, and then do more water test. After a week or so and stable water conditions, you can add some thing else. And for your live rock head over to Gold's and Wai's. It will cost you less in shipping and it will save you time on re-curing. The stuff sitting at the local stores has already started the curing process and will not have as much die off as stuff that is being shipped. The other thing you could do is buy 30 lbs set it up in your tank and see what it looks like. If you want more add more. Sorry this is so long, but that is how I started my tank, I'm sure you already know most of what I said. Good luck and have fun with the tank.

Ok good point Milan I never thought about having 2 different amounts of light. So, I decided on 36 watts for the sump. With bog wood and java moss, and some Java fern, and some ghost shrimp. That will be it for the sump. Now the reason I want to keep the sump is so that I can keep all the equipment out of the display. I know it makes things a little more difficult but its also a experience. Now I have a little favour to ask. Does any one mix their own fertilizer? and would you be willing to sell me some? Now for the display tank I was thinking 31 watts, with some bog wood, some Sagittaria subulata, Java moss covering the bog wood, Ludwigia repens ''Rubin''( Now I think I have some of this in my big tank so I took a little bit.) and some Naja grass. And for inhabitants, Ghost shrimp and some Flower shrimp and or cherry shrimp. Now I was thinking maybe a horse faced loach. I still have to do a little research to make sure that he will be happy in a 5.5g. Is there any one in town that brings in cherry of flower shrimp in? And has anyone ever seen these Caridina sp. Bumblebee. (Bumble Bee Shrimp) Or these Dwarf Emerald Green Deora Algae Eating Shrimp. They both look realy cool.

Ok I know this sounds a little odd. But what do I put in a sump for a planted tank. So I tore down my salt 5.5g and 10g sump and cleaned it all out. Sold all the live stuff in the salt tank. And now I want to set up a small planted tank. But I don't want to run any filters or power heads, on the system. I do have a pump that is running water from the sump to the display, for circulation. And thanks to Milan I got some plants to start the tank off. Thanks Milan, but can you post the name of the plant for me. Now the only thing I want to keep in the tank is some ghost shrimp, maybe I will even break down and pick up some cherry shrimp. Or maybe a electric blue cray fish. I haven't decided yet. But the primary goal is to turn it in to a planted tank, with sump. Now if anyone has had any experience with a sump on a fresh water planted tank PLEASE let me know what you kept in it and where I can get some. The light will be 18 watts over the main tank, and 13 watts over the sump. I will also be adding a small co2 unit. But that is going to be it. Unless some one can suggest some thing else. I will attach a couple pic. Let me know what you think. This is before water. And this is with water and the plants.

I keep my halogens on for 9 and 11 hours. One will go on about a hour before the other, and one turns off a hour before the other. Sort of like a dusk and dawn effect. It works very nicely for me, and I haven't had any plant loss since I added the halogens.

Soundes like a bacteria bloom. I had this happen in my old hex tank. Will usualy clear out in a day or 2, thats just my experiance. maybe some of the other more experianced people here can explain how it happens and why.

Where is Aqua Giant? is it in edmonton? or Calgary?