Milan

No, they are not. Terrestrial plant fertilizers mostly use urea/ammonia as the source of Nitrogen. This would trigger serious algae blooms and possibly harm fish. Jobes sticks (fern type only!) is the only one to my knowledge which contains very small amount of it. The rest of N source is KNO3, which is safe.

They are concentrated, slow release NPK fertilizers used for house plants in the shape of sticks which you stick into the soil close to plant's roots.

You should not have too many fish to begin with, as it brings other problems such as insufficient nitrification, possible O2 depletion, algae blooms .... and so on.

PPS and EI are fertilization methods designed to use bulk chemicals, namely KNO3, KH2PO4, and K2SO4 as sources of macro nutrients. Commercial fertilizers come from many manufacturers, but most commonly found on our market is the Seachem product line. Dosing fertilizers depends on many factors (lights, tank volume, plant bio mass, ....) TE = Trace Elements

Hello Jonah, Considering you mentioned CO2 enrichment, I would assume you are asking about fertilization for a high lights tank. There are basically two fertilization methods you may decide to go by. Nowadays, mostly in use among aquarists are PPS (Perpetual Preservation System), and EI (Estimative Index). Both work well, but have some differences in the approach. This is just a brief overview, but there is a lot more to it. PPS: Dosing based on periodically measured residual levels of NO3 and PO4. Water changes on per need basis. Fert sources KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4, and TE mix. EI: Dosing based on predetermined fert quantities. No need for testing (except KH and pH), but suggested weekly massive (50%) water changes. Fert sources KNO3, KH2PO4, and TE mix. Third way would be to use commercial fertilizers ...

Tanker has a good point ... In your case the fish load is too high. Rule of thumb is 1" of fish per 1 gallon of tank volume. If your tank is not overstocked, have enough plant biomass, under low (normal) lights condition and no CO2 added, you may literally run your tank without any water change. Of course, if everything is in balance, meaning NO3 and PO4 are not on the rise over time ... Vic, I'm not sure why do you think you have an O2 problem? Is your fish gasping for air at the surface? If yes, how sure are you it's a lack of O2, and not perhaps presence of ammonia? Higher lights will not give you more oxygen. You may get some pearling, but that's very little. Most of O2 comes from water surface. Surface agitation helps. You can run an air pump too ... Bear in mind that light is the "driver" of plants metabolism and with it increased come all kinds of requirements, beginning with CO2, more aggressive fertilization, frequent/massive water changes and so on ... Lights are not cheap, neither is CO2, regardless of DIY or pressurized type ... As far as I know Flourite is enriched with micros (TE). No macros (N, P, K). You still need to add at least Potassium. Micros you can not overdose by adding them thru some commercial fert. Yes, there are tests for NO3 and PO4 ...

Vic, I just noticed you have a low lights (1.7W/g) setup. With this, you are in the territory of Diana Walstad's, or Tom Barr's non CO2 methods. Perhaps, closer to Tom Barr's, since Diana calls for soil substrates. Although it does not hurt to inject CO2, you don't have to bother with it. Under low lights and no CO2, your plants will grow at significantly slower rate, but they will still grow healthy. This have some advantages too ... Less pruning, next to no water changes, very little, or no fertilizers dosing ... As far as fertilization goes, most of nutrients are provided by fish and food waste and all you have to add in small quantities is some Potassium (K) and trace elements (TE). Most of commercial stuff is formulated this way (TMG, Seachem Flourish, ...), and considering the usage, it is not expensive. However, you will need to verify that enough macronutrients (namely NO3 and PO4) are coming from organic source. If this is not the case (most likely it is), you may have to supplement them by adding small amounts of KNO3 and KH2PO4 on weekly basis. You will need NO3 and PO4 tests. Most people use either Nutrafin or Aquarium Pharmaceuticals brands. If you decide to upgrade your lights (>2W/g), then the story becomes diferent, and we can talk about some other methods, such as EI or PPS which call for CO2 enrichment ...

Everything looks fine. I believe by "cycled water" you used to set up this tank, you probably meant water from another (cycled) tank ... Right? Back to your original question, you will need pH and KH tests to find out how are you doing on CO2 ... Are you using any fertilizers?

Hello Vic and welcome to the board! Most people do not turn off their DIY CO2 over night. There is very little danger it would harm your fish, considering the amount of gas produced in such way. I would say if there is very little plant bio mass, surface agitation is next to nothing, and bubbling rates of CO2 are consistently high (say over 1-2 bbl/sec), your fish may start showing stress from the lack of O2. On the other hand, if you wish to minimize the amount of dissolved CO2 out of the photo period, the best way to do this is to use your powerhead on a timer together with your lights. Shutting off the CO2 line from the fermenter in the same fashion as with pressurized systems (solenoid valve or manually) may result in what your concern is. You may also want to monitor the CO2 level in your tank by measuring pH and KH parameters. To calculate the CO2 level, you can either use the following formula CO2 = 3*KH*10^(7-pH), or this table http://www.aquabotanic.com/charts.htm Hope this helps ...

Jobes sticks are fine .... Just make sure it's a fern type, as this one contains minimum amount of N in the form of urea (ammonia).

Sorry, this went unanswered ... I'm not too much into photography, but my advice would be to use your camera without flash, then make sure there is no ambient lights (daylight, room lights ...), just your aquarium lights. You may want to play with the gain (+/- settings). There is also a section of this board dedicated to aquarium photography: http://albertaaquatica.com/index.php?showforum=23 Hope this helps to have another entry in our gallery ...

Use common sense when selecting pots. Bigger plants, bigger pots ... Similar to what you would do for terrestrial potted plants ... You can fill pots with whatever you would normally use as substrate. However, an inexpensive and effective choice would be Aquatic Plant Soil (Profile). RONA used to sell it, and it was less than $7 for a 10lb bag. You can fill many pots with this ... For heavier rooters, such as swords, you may want to inject ferts directly into pots ... A syringe with a ~2" needle, such ones for animal use, would be handy.

In the case of BBA, blackouts are very ineffective. It may, or may not detach itself form it's host, but it is very unlikely that it will die. If you kill BBA by a prolonged darkness, most likely that plants and less hardy fish are going to follow the suit ... By searching the net I have not found any reliable refference suggesting blackouts against BBA, other than an old Tom Barr's experiment where he ended up with with the above mentioned consequences ... http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plants/mont...6/msg00242.html I would be more than interested if there is something that I missed ...

Tank Dimension: 29 gallons (30W x 18H x 12D) Filter Type: HOB AquaClear 50, Foam/BioMax Substrate information: Profile, latterite, gravel (3-5mm) Lighting/Illumination: 65W/6700K, Compact flourescent, 11 hrs straight. Fertilization: KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4, TE mix, as per PPS, currently dosing 10ml SS, 1ml TE, bi-daily. C02: Pressurized, on timer (during photo period only) Water Change: On per need basis. On average every 8-14 days 50%. Temperature: 25-26C PH: 6.4-6.5 KH: 6.4 GH: 11 N03: 20-40ppm P04: 2.0-5.0 ppm Flora: Rotala indica, Anubias barteri sp. Angustifolia, Sagittaria subulata, Hygrophila difformis, Hygrophila polysperma, Limnophila aquatica, Bacopa caroliniana, Cabomba caroliniana, Ceratopteris thalictroides, Microsorum pteropus, Vallisneria spiralis, Egeria densa, Lemna minor, Hydrocotyle leucocephala Fauna: Xiphophorus maculatus, Gymnocorymbus ternetzi, Crossocheilus siamensis, Otocinclus affinis.

This is BBA (Black Beard Algae). Once they get firm footing in your tank, they are very difficult to battle. Recommended treatments are: 1. Removal of contaminated leaves/stones/substrate. 2. Disinfectant dip for contaminated plants/objects. Two to three minute bath in a solution of 1 part bleach to 19 parts water. Follow with a rinse in freshwater. Careful here, as extended bath may hurt plants!!! 3. Some people recommend introduction of Siamese Algae-Eaters (SAEs), and/or Algae-eating shrimp. I personally don't have positive experience with these. 4. Increase CO2 level to the upper safe limit (~30ppm, or more - until fish start showing signs of stress). 5. Ensure proper balance of nutrients. 6. Copper treatment. This is not recommended in tanks with fauna sensitive to copper (cyprinids, live bearers, snails and other invertebrates ...). Cichlids are relatively tolerant to copper. Hope this helps ...

This is a member's planted tank gallery, where you can present your tank. As long as you have a single plant in your tank you are eligible to participate. An image or two, with a brief description would suffice. From this gallery, and based on your input (a poll) a "Tank of the Month" will be selected. No prizes, just recognition, but most of all fun ... These are the requirements: Images: Maximum two images per entry. Keep them minimum size. To post them here, you will have to link them from some image hosting sites, such as Photobucket, or any other of your choice. Information on how to take quality pictures with your camera, you can find here. If you need assistance, let me know ... Description: Briefly describe your tank. Size, Lights, Substrate, CO2, filtration, fertilization, water parameters, Flora, fauna ... and/or anything else you may find interesting about it ... NOTE: Please do not comment on each other tanks here, as you will be able to do this in the "Tank of the Month" section, when the time comes ... That's all it is ... Please submit your entries ....

Substrates for Planted Tank by Garhan Here is an arcticle that would parallel the substrate that I build for my tanks. The only significant difference is that I add in Florite into the base and layer it between the two mentioned layers. Some people put the flourite or laterite on the bottom of the tank. Either would work. http://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/budget.html

Dupla's Rules by Garhan The basic law for an optimum aquarium -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The 10 golden rules for maintaining an optimum aquarium provide the natural laws for a correctly functioning aquarium in which fish and plants are able to enjoy a healthy, vigorous life. The rules remove the factor of uncertainty from the aquarium at the very beginning, and render it independent of chance occurrences. The 10 Golden Rules for an Optimum Aquarium -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1. Tropical Warmth in the Substrate and in the Water Heating the aquarium by means of an undergravel heating cable is a very important pre-condition for an optimum aquarium. The heating cable in the gravel of the aquarium integrates the entire substrate into the chemical and physical cycle of the aquarium, by means of convection currents. If the aquarium water is heated for example, by means of an immersion heater, only the water becomes warm, while the substrate or gravel remains at room temperature, thus turning black and foul with the plants suffering from the notorious "cold feet". An undergravel heating system helps to simulate in the aquarium, the ground water current that exists in natural waters. A well composed aquarium substrate consists of a layer of 2-3 mm sized quartz gravel, the lower part of it being a mixture of gravel and Duplarit G. Duplarit is a selected tropical laterite with high iron content. This type of aquarium substrate provides the following advantages: Nutritional material for plants is being activated in the substrate and supplied to them through the plant roots leaves. Furthermore, oxygen is brought into the substrate, thus keeping it in functional for a longer period of time. Moreover, low voltage heating with 24 volts, offers absolute safety for people and fish, even if the heating cable is damaged. Dupla Heating System Dupla Fertilisation System, Duplarit -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2. Adequate Lighting Light has a dual function for the aquarium: to illuminate the underwater world correctly for human eyes, and also to supply the necessary energy for plant growth. This second function of the lighting is a very important aspect within the complete biological and chemical process in the aquarium. Light supplies energy - and this is what plants need for optimum metabolism. Light is the aquarium's engine. It regulates the nutrient requirement, produces oxygen and also controls the discharge of by-products and metabolism products. Not just the quantity, but also the quality of the light is what counts. Therefore the lighting must be adapted to the size of the aquarium and also to the water, and living conditions in it. Dupla Lighting System For more detailed information refer to the article "Correct Lighting for Aquariums", AQUARIUM HEUTE 3/94. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3. Assured Water Stability What is meant is this: a neutral pH value and a stable carbonate hardness of minimum 3-4° dH. In a community aquarium, often fish from geographically and chemically differing waters are cared for. Some fishes come from more acidic, others from slightly alkaline waters. Therefore a neutral pH value setting is recommended as a happy medium for "every fish". A neutral pH value can be set and controlled by properly delivered CO2 fertilisation. Simultaneously, this provides an optimum carbon supply for submerged water plants. Dupla was the first company that offered high-quality CO2 fertilisation devices with semi and fully automatic regulation. Dupla CO2 System For more detailed information refer to the article "CO2 in the Aquarium - Significance and Application", AQUARIUM HEUTE 3/95. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4. Nature-like Plant Nutrition The most important pre-condition for healthy growth of aquarium plants is that at all times, all nutrients - including trace elements - are available for the plants. Contrary to tropical plant waters, our tap water has large nutrient deficiencies. Many important nutrients and trace elements are missing or extracted from the water during treatment at the waterworks. Furthermore, many nutrients - especially important trace elements - are completely consumed by the light or the plants in the aquarium. However, if just one nutrient is missing the plant growth is stunted or the plants even perish (Liebigs's law of minimums). Dupla's counter move for this problem is a clever fertilisation system: Dupla Fertilisation System For more detailed information refer to the articles: "How to Turn Tap Water Into Aquarium Water", AQUARIUM HEUTE 4/93 (in German language only) "Iron - The Amazing Element in the Aquarium", AQUARIUM HEUTE 2/92 (in German language only), and "How to Properly Feed Aquarium Plants", AQUARIUM HEUTE 4/94. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5. Biological Filtration "Biological" means filtration through a medium, where bacteria are able to colonise in order to remove harmful substances, thus cleaning the aquarium water. Special bacteria are even able to remove remains from chelators and over-fertilised chelates. The industrial sewage industry also makes use of this filtration technique on a grand scale. In this way the regeneration of sewage water up to the point of drinking water quality, is possible. Dupla's water treatment system offers all products that are necessary for bacteria-controlled water purification. Starting with the filter media (Biokaskade and Minikaskade) up to the specific bacteria (Duplabacter). The Dupla Water Treatment System For more detailed information please refer to the following articles: "From Tap Water to Aquarium Water. 1 - Organic Connections", AQUARIUM HEUTE 1/96 (in German language only). "Teething Problems with New Aquaria", AQUARIUM HEUTE 2/94. "The Consequences of Urea in the Water", AQUARIUM HEUTE 2/91 (in German language only). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6. Strong Water Movement Good water movement is essential for the following reasons: 1. to assure even temperatures in all water zones of the aquarium 2. to carry away organic waste materials from the plant leaves 3. to allow fresh nutrients to reach the leaves' surfaces 4. to provide a strong current for fish originating from rapid flowing streams. The Dupla Water Treatment System offers the proper Turbo pumps for good water movement. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7. Dense Planting An optimum aquarium also requires dense and well growing plants, as a well planted aquarium has the following advantages: Plants release oxygen to the water and the substrate, thus preventing the substrate from turning black Plants remove organic waste materials Special aquarium plants are able to destroy disease causing germs ... and even remove toxic substances from the water Dense and well growing aquarium plants are the best protection against algae of all kinds ...and good hiding and spawning places for aquarium fish For further information please refer to the following articles: "How to Properly Feed Aquarium Plants", AQUARIUM HEUTE 4/94. "Plea For the Open Aquarium", AQUARIUM HEUTE 2/96 (in German language only). A hint for the purchase of excellent aquarium plants: Europe's largest aquatic plant nursery, Tropica ApS in Denmark. Information from Tropica: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8. Balanced Fish Population A balanced fish population goes hand in hand with the idea of providing both fish and plants with an environment that is optimally designed. In the optimum aquarium, fish and plants should be a harmonious combination. Here are some basic rules: Do not mix fish that attack each other continuously Avoid plant eating fish. Algae eating fish should be introduced as an algae preventative right from the start. Make sure that the fish all have the same water requirements, especially with regard to temperature, water hardness and pH value. Choose fish that occupy all areas of the aquarium, ie bottom, mid and surface zones Do not introduce add picky eaters if you are not sure that you will be able to provide them with the food they need. For further information please refer to the following articles: "Fish Against Algae", AQUARIUM HEUTE 3/83 (German only). "When to Introduce Fish Into the Aquarium", AQUARIUM HEUTE 2/93 (German only). "Everything About Algae", AQUARIUM HEUTE 3/93. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9. Fish Care compatible with the Tropics Healthy and vital fish in the long run, depend on good vitamin-rich, and easily digestible fish food. As most tropical fish come from waters with very low salt levels, it is important to ensure that they receive very low salt food - otherwise intestinal diseases are almost inevitable. DuplaRin is a modern food concept for aquarium fish. It was developed after many years of research and trial work, together with leading scientists and diet physiologists. Dupla decided to offer DuplaRin in the form of granules, thus being able to provide a suitable food type for any fish and mouth size. Fish are 'bit eaters'! Moreover, DuplaRin is supplied in specific formulae as: extremely fine feed - DuplaRin Micro, and as tablets - Compretten and Haftys. The Dupla Fish Food System For further information please refer to the following articles: "Nutrition of Aquarium Fish", AQUARIUM HEUTE 4/87 (German only). "Proper and Incorrect Nutrition of Aquarium Fish", AQUARIUM HEUTE 4/94 (German only). "Natural Nutrition of Tropical Aquarium Fish - Consequences for Nutrition of Aquarium Fish", AQUARIUM HEUTE 1/95 (German only). "Carotinoides in Fish Food", AQUARIUM HEUTE 4/95 (German only). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10. Control of all Variables The regular control of important water parameters will prevent aquarium conditions from getting out of control unnoticed. This means in particuar, the regular testing of temperature, pH value, nitrite and nitrate content, carbonate hardness, iron, copper and phosphate levels. Compared to natural waters, an aquarium is a very small mass of water. Test values can go from one extreme to another within a short period of time. The aquarium however, requires a high degree of stability and continuity. For this reason Dupla has developed an analysis system that fulfils both a diagnostic and therapeutic function.

Plants 101, Recommended Water/Fertilization Targets by Garhan We are very fortunate to have the water quality we have here in Edmonton. Especially for those interested in growing aquatic plants. Most flora available today will grow extremely well in our tap water with minor tweaking of the nutrients in the water,and this is depending on plant density. The main thing we need to be careful of is to not run short on fertilizer intake for the plants on a dailey or bi-dailey bases. Especially the Potassium ans Nitrate intake. Edmonton water consists of the following parameters (June ,2005): Rossdale Zone Hardness-183 mg/l Calcium Hardness - 114 mg/l ph-7.6 Conductivity-438 micro siemens Fe.003 mg/l Potassium (K)-.7 mg/l Nitrates - .15 mg/l All in all this is excellent water to grow your plants in, but there needs to be some minor upgrading to target levels that would optimize the plant growth requirements. The targets I use now are simple to maintain and will result in a virtually algae free tank. Some algae are good indicaters that you are close to the target area. Such as Hair Algae, while others will indicate a significant shortage in a target level. "Yes" a shortgae not an overdosage. Contrar to popular belief. Your plants need to work at maximum capacity to keep algae from developing.The primary water conditions that need to be followed are the listed below: ph,KH, N03,GH,FE (Iron), P04 (Phosphate), and Potassium (K) When introducing fertilization into the tank of any size the parameters or targets are still constant. Meaning in a 10 gallon tank or a 300 gallon tank we want the water colum to carry the same values. While the volume of dosage will vary to meet these target. I am sure you can do the math easily with a calculator and having a good understanding of your fertilizers of choice. This is wether store bought (premixed) or home made brews such as the ones I use myself. Target levels are as follows; ph 6.5 to 7.0 KH 3-6 degrees GH 2-8 degrees N03 5-10 ppm Potassium (K) 20-30 ppm phosphate (P04) .2-.5 ppm Iron (FE) .2-.7 ppm, just keep it under 1.0 and over is OK but will be a waste of product. The 2 or 3 targets I usually focus in on are NO3, K and suffient C02. (Use ph and KH to develope targeted amounts 20-30 ppm of C02). ph can be adjusted with a C02 system wether it is DIY or a Pressureized system. DIY work just fine on tanks of 50 gallons or smaller. KH can be inexpensively adjusted with Baking Soda to raise the KH. GH can be raised with CaC03 as can it raise KH. N03 will need to be added in the form of Potassium Nitrate (KN03) or with fish load and feeding on established tanks. Potassium (K) will come from KN03 and K2S04 (Potassium Sulfate) this needs to be monitored carefully to find a balance in your specific tank to meet both the potassium and Nitrate levels need. Phosphate (P04) is fullfilled with the addition of K2P04 (Potassium Phosphate0 or fish food. If any of the recommended targets are exceeded then simply do a 25-50% water change to lower the levels down. The additional things you will need to have a good planted tank is proper temperature. here target a level 76-78 degrees, but you can grow plants well between 68 and 84 degrees. Your water flow is also critical but there should belittle to no surface turbulance. What is meant by this is the surface tension should not be broken as to allow a mixing of 02 into the tank water. This surface disturbance will also knock out your C02 that you have introduced. The rule of thumb is 3 to 5 times the tank volume in circulated gallons. So then in a 50 gallon a 150 to 250 gallons of water should be circulated. If your filter does not do this for you. You can introduce a small bilge pump (submersible) from Princess Auto that will circulate 200 gph. By adding a valve to the pump with section of 1/2" hose and a valve the flow can be adjusted to reduce the output. Cost is $10.00 when on sale. With lights target anything between 2-5 watts per gallon with bulbs that produce 4400-6700 K Full Spectrum or daylight deluxe glow. All plants will do Ok to very well under this light condition. Some will grow slower under the lower light condition of 2 watts, but they will grow. If all the recommended paramaters and targets are met, you will only have minor mishaps with algae and plant growth. As you can see the target allow for much room to error somewhat and even from the target levels there is still room to error alittle more. You need only the lights, C02 and proper nutrients to grow any plant. Garhan

If you have any suggestions or proposals which in your mind deserve public attention, this will be the place to voice it. For all other issues/topics, PM and general discussion area remain your options.

I'm sorry to hear about your bad experience with the order. However, my dealings with Canada Customs and FedEx is quite opposite. There was no a single cent on the top of the actual cost+shipping ($69+12) for the same item. Not to mention there was no GST.

I hoped someone experienced with this species would answer ... I have Ceratopteris thalictroides in my tank, that propagates the same way, so I would assume the same technique applies ... It propagates very easily by developing "babies" on the outer margins of it's leaves. Once the roots are developed, the young plants can be gently pulled off the parent leaf although they often come off on their own. Then, you can either leave them floating, till they further mature, or plant them immediately if they have enough root mass to stay anchored in the substrate. Hope this helps ...

Samgoody, You didn't provide very much information ... I would start with identifying the algae first. Sounds like a fuzz algae, but ... A picture would be of a great help here. There are also some sites with information on algae types, such as this: http://www.aquaticscape.com/articles/algae.htm#types Once we pinpoint the one you are dealing with, we can move on ...

I would advice against bubbling CO2 into your primary filtration device, especially when using DIY CO2 generation method. The reason is that just right amount of gas (difficult to control with DIY) brought into the impeller chamber will stall the filter flow, resulting in two problems ... no filtration and no CO2, first one being the worse. However, like Jvision mentioned, a separate small filter/powerhead, dedicated only for CO2 dissolving purpose is fine.

Most people use either Nutrafin, or Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kits for nitrates. Iron tests are a different story, as they are notorious for false readings. To my knowledge very few people use them. I've seen SERA and Nutrafin Fe test kits on the market. SERA sells for about $40, while Nutrafin is quite a bit cheaper ...