Znaika

Just admit you have their shares I have had heaters of all kinds of brands and types; electronic as well as bimetallic. The biggest difference between them is, I maintain, price. I currently run five different brands, including jager and they all work just fine. A taiwanese one for $8, hydor for &15 and jager for $30+ have been doing their job just the same for a lo-o-o-o-ng time. But I know like my own hand, that if I drop any of them on a concrete basement floor, it will spell the end of it, jager or hydor or fluval or, or, or... Only metal ones are somewhat sturdier, but I would not be sure about their electronics after hard drop anyways. Peace...

A glass is a glass is a glass, whatever brand you attach to it. I have never broken any heater, jager or not, except when I smashed them. And thank you for the offer, $10 a piece is reasonable I admit, but I recently bought a bunch of new ones for $15 or less and they will last me for quite a while.

They all break the same when you drop them. What is different is the price you paid for shattered glass.

Just a side consideration: squeezing the "juice" has little use. The useful bacteria are attached to the media.

Ammonia in quantities fatal for the fish is still 100 times below the limit for human consumption.

There is NOTHING that is more bright and colourful than cardinal tetras, however is it not only brightness and colourfulness that leaves an impression. Sometimes a stealthy look is better. A school of glowlight tetras in a dimly lit tank is more impressive than a bunch of stupid guppies in a bowl, although the latter are certainly more bright and colourful. Just my opinion. Disclaimer: Any my opinion may be wrong, including this one.

Small Rasboras and/or danios: - Harlequin rasboras (Rasbora heteromorpha) - Lamb chop rasboras (Trigonostigma espei) - Celestial Pearl Danio / Galaxy Rasboras (Celestichthys margaritatus) Small Tetras - Glowlight tetras (Hemigrammus erithrozonus) - Rummynose tetra (Hemigrammus bleheri) - Bloodfin tetra (Aphyocharax anisitsi) All are usually available from Big Al's or Pisces or Riverfront.

One thing for Edmontonians to consider - the city of Edmonton adds chloramine, not chlorine into the water supply. Chloramine is actually ammonia (NH3) where one atom of hydrogen is replaced with an atom of chlorine (NH2Cl). Chloramine is actually produced from ammonia and a chlorine-containing acid. As chloramine decomposes, it releases ammonia into the water. Having been treated with Prime, it releases ammonium - much less toxic, but still... This is why adding large volume of tap water containing chloramine into a semi-cycled tank or a tank with insufficient filter may actually cause a peak of ammonia (in case of Nitrosomonas bacteria deficit) or a peak of nitrite (in case of Nitrobacter deficit) and will inevitably end up with some level of nitrates, albeit usually smaller than in a water that has been replaced. Prime does not provide protection again this phenomena; all Prime can do - to convert chloramine into chlorid and ammonium; the former is not a problem and the latter is not nearly as toxic as ammonia, but still needs to be consumed by Nitrosomonas, which if you lack, then here is your spike. If you want smoother cycling, you need to age chloramine-contained water under constant aeration for a week. You do not even have to add Prime. Chloramine half-life in water (a period of decrease by 50%) is about 30 hours, so in 7 days 98%+ of it will be gone and adding it will not cause ammonia or nitrite spike. Look at this thread for another similar case from Edmonton: http://albertaaquati...pic=38303&st=15

Colour Temperature (K) = 3,000,000 / Wavelength (nm) Wavelength (nm) = 3,000,000 / Colour Temperature (K) Therefore: 10,000 K lamp peaks at 300 nm 6,500 K lamp peaks at 460 nm ...but both, of course, radiate albeit with lower intensity outside of these peaks too. Solar spectrum: The peak is at 500 nm or 6000 K, however 50% of the radiation power or above is spread over the range from 350 nm to 1000 nm, thus 3000 K to 8600 K Chlorophyll absorption peaks fall onto 6500-7500 K and on 4450-4650 K Standard 48" T8 daylight tube, which is sold in The Home Depot and elsewhere for $12 a pair has colour temperature 6500 K. Standard 48" T8 cool white tube - 4100 K Combine the two in the same 48" light fixture available in the same place for $22 - and under $40 you have a solution which otherwise will cost you hundreds. I am sure the situation is the same with shorter tubes.

Here is what I found on the matter: http://www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/science/enviro/aah-saa/ornamental-aquarium-eng.htm

Each country has its own regulations, I never brought fish into Canada, so I do not have any practical experience. I know, however, that Air Canada offers shipment of aquarium fishes as a service: https://www.aircanad...ions/index.html

As long as your luggage does not get lost, that is

Actually, if you do not feed bought fish for a couple of days (so that they do not spoil the water during travel), they will probably survive in a fish bag put in a styrofoam box with one or two heat packs.

You might want to ask admins to create a special section dedicated to paludariums.

I fully submerged mine and so far so good. If it leaks, I'll let everyone know (as well as demand Hagen for reimbursement)

Second that!

I guess the difference is in the temperature and current

FX5 is a bit of overkill for 90G, unless you are planning for very messy fishes or deliberate overstocking. IMO.

Thanks for the info; this settles it, I think.

Minimum line is understandable. A heater must be immersed to a certain min level not to overheat and break. It is maximum level on the fully submersible heater that is confusing.

Information on the packaging is ambiguous: Manufacturer's web site confirms that the heater is "completely submersible": Are Elite submersable heaters fully submersible - why is there is a waterline I was just inquiring about the Elite submersible heaters. I was told by the sales representative that the whole unit can be fully submerged, and I've read on other web sites that it can be. What's confusing me is that it has a maximum water level line. I' To be C.S.A. approved in Canada we have to specify a waterline, but the unit is completely submersible. To ensure even heat distribution place heater vertically. The heater should not touch anything when it is in the water, as this may cause uneven heat dispersion and cause the tube to become weakened. http://faq.hagencrm....bfaqid=21763 Elite Submersible Aquarium Heater I have purchased an Elite "submersible" Aquarium heater. It shows a MAXIMUM water line at the top of the unit which would lead me to believe the unit cannot have water above this marking. Can you please let me know if this is actually completely submers All Elite Submersible Heaters are built to be impervious to water. To be C.S.A. approved in Canada we have to specify a waterline, but the unit is completely submersible. To ensure even heat distribution place heater vertically. http://faq.hagencrm....bfaqid=21774 Elite Submersible Heaters are fully submersible I was just inquiring about the Elite submersible heaters. I was told by the sales representative that the whole unit can be fully submerged, and I've read on other web sites that it can be. What's confusing me is that it has a maximum water le Thank you for taking the time to contact us. To be C.S.A. approved in Canada we have to specify a waterline, but the unit is completely submersible. To ensure even heat distribution place heater vertically. http://faq.hagencrm....bfaqid=21764

Sunken belly + popping eye(s) = fish TB Sunken belly + bent spine, otherwise doing good = can be just old age Sunken belly and white poop = most likely internal parasites. Deworming fish is probably your best bet.

Yellowing leaves, especially around veins is a sign of the lack of iron. However I have never seen it in a tank with fish; even a few small fish produce enough nutrients for all plants in the tank. I would rather think of some other reason, like salt issue you mentioned, especially if only one kind of plants is affected. Other possible reasons: any changes in pH or dH recently? And most importantly, any changes in light intensity? May it be that your T8 has worn off and needs to be replaced? They are only good for 6-8 months. May it be that during earlier season of the year the tank was [more] exposed to natural light from a window? May it be that other plants grew up and now shade your swords from natural light? In either case adding increasing light may give an answer

Bravo silver dollar, never give up!

I think this is a big stretch, to put it mildly.