Znaika

Subject: Re: Seachem Safe dose From: support@seachem.com Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2012 10:13:05 -0500 Hello, Thank you for the email and for using Safe. We are sorry for the discrepancy. The website is the most updated version of the dosing instructions. Unfortunately, there are still older labels in circulation with the older instructions on them. The difference, however, is not a dangerous difference and should not cause any issues within the aquarium if dosed at the instructions on the older labels. I hope this helps. Let us know if you need further assistance. Product Support 100215 On Dec 24, 2012, at 12:04 AM, Znaika wrote: > "Hello, > Directions on my bottle say 5 grams treat 200 gallon of water from chlorine (4 ppm). > Directions on the web say 5 grams treat 450 gallon of water from chlorine (4 ppm) and warn not to overdose. > Why is there a difference and what directions am I supposed to follow? > Thanks

Itwasverydifficulttoreadwithoutproperpunctuation

Kens asks for $65 shipment on $100 order and there is no free shipment option to Canada at all For a $30 shipment is another $30. This basically defeats the purpose.

Update: the order was placed on 12/04 and received today 12/18. Everything appeared as expected. Prices are 30%-70% of the LFS'es, shipping to Calgary is dirt cheap ($6) or free if the order is above $49. Very good experience overall and I placed another order today. Disclaimer: I do not own their shares

I bought a stand for my 75 G tank in Petsmart half a year ago. The same stand actually fits 90 G too as 75 G and 90 G have the same base - 48'x18'. This indeed is a particle board stand, and I was skeptical about it too and planned to frame it from inside with 2x4. However after assembling it and trying to stand and jump on it (I am about 190 pounds), I realized it is not necessary. So far it holds and it is not flimsy at all.

Beware that Laterite prices vary wildly between the stores. I have seen a small box for $24 in Petland and a large one (double size) for $18 on sale in Petsmart Chinook in Calgary. So if you need more than a couple of boxes, it may make sense to shop around a little.

30 hours half life is for constant aeration. If you do not aerate, it probably doubles. Small air compressor is only 3 watts, so it is not any kind of electricity drain. I would say try it one and see what happens with the nitrite level. If it does not surge, here is your answer. Otherwise there is another reason.

Man, you have ammonia/ammonium in you tap water. It is probably because your tap water is treated with chloramine, not chlorine. Chloramine is chlorine bound to ammonia. When you apply the conditioner, my guess is - it converts ammonia to ammonium and binds it with thiosulfate, but ammonium still remains in the water, just in a different, non-toxic chemical form, which, once processed by the filter bacteria, turns into nitrite anyway. Each massive water change ends up being massive surge of bound ammonium in the water and this is why, perhaps, after you change big part of water and add conditioner, you end up with a nitrite surge. Try to age your water instead of adding the conditioner. Put the water into some pail and switch on aeration. Chloramine's half life in such conditions is about 30 hours. Means in 30 hours 1/2 will escape, in 60 hours 3/4 will escape and so on. If you keep it for a week (normal partial water change periodicity), 99% of chloramine will escape. Try to use this water and see what happens.

How about testing your tap water? Does it read 0-0-0? Add your water conditioner to the tap water and test again. Does it read 0-0-0? If not, throw away your water conditioner. Cullymoto is right that you are mid cycle, but it looks like your cycling takes abnormally long time. It should not take longer than 4 weeks, usually less than that. And you've been doing it since October, right? Something is slowing your filter bio filtering. Can it be that the tap water has excessive level of chlorine/chloramine or you do not add enough conditioner, or the conditioner does not bind chlorine quickly enough, in which case chlorine suppresses your filter maturing? Aging water for a couple of days in an open bin would resolve this. On a side note: adding Prime will NOT remove ammonia or nitrite. It will convert them into a less toxic form. However your test kit will still detect such converted ammonia and nitrite. Do not expect to see anything different from what you see before adding Prime.

Ok, this is good to know. Their FAQ does not elaborate on the shelf life, just says "do not pre-dissolve".

Yes. And make sure you do not overdose. If you need such small doses, you need to go with Seachem Prime, not Seachem Safe. Also, do not attempt to pre-dissolve Safe in a small amount of water and them use the solution. Unlike of Prime, Safe does not have stabilizers and will not last as a solution.

From http://www.seachem.c...ages/Safe.html: Directions Directions for 10 g and 50 g To remove… Chlorine: use 1 measure to each 130 L (35 gallons*) of tap water (removes 1 ppm).. Chloramine: use 1 measure to each 100 L (25 gallons*) of tap water (removes 1 ppm). Ammonia: use 1 measure to each 32 L (8 gallons*) of tap water (removes 1 ppm). Do not overdose! For reference, 1 measure = 100 mg. To detoxify nitrite/nitrate in an emergency situation use up to 5 measures to each 40 L (10 gallons). Use fish to gauge toxicity reduction as test kits will still show presence of nitrite/nitrate even when detoxified. May be added to aquarium directly, but is better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. If temperature is > 30 C (86 F) cut dosing in half. Directions for 250 g and larger To remove… Chlorine: use 5 g (1 tsp.*) to each 1625 L (450 gallons*) of tap water (removes 4 ppm). Chloramine: use 5 g (1 tsp.*) to each 1250 L (300 gallons*) of tap water (removes 4 ppm). Ammonia: use 5 g (1 tsp.*) to each 400 L (100 gallons*) of tap water (removes 4 ppm). Do not overdose! To detoxify nitrite/nitrate in an emergency situation use up to 5 g (1 tsp.*) to each 400 L (100 gallons*). Use fish to gauge toxicity reduction as test kits will still show presence of nitrite/nitrate even when detoxified. May be added to aquarium directly, but is better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. If temperature is > 30 C (86 F) cut dosing in half. *US volume units

I've asked because I have 6 slender rasboras, which I came across completely by chance and have not seen since in any LFS. Despite dense vegetation and good care they seem to be very jittery and nervous. During the day they like to hide and come out only after 8 PM. I have no experience breeding them, but I want to do it at some point. I know they spawned in the tank at least once during my absence because they all became thin exhausted looked terribly beaten by the time I returned from work. They also seem to be very fragile. I lost one due to the pop-eye, most likely resulting from the trauma during spawning, another one to TB and yet another one disappeared without a trace while I was away for a few days. So now I am down to 4 males and two females and the females are again becoming plumpy. I'll give them a try in the next few weeks.

Do I see rasboras there? Borapetensis (brilliant rasbora) or Daniconius (slender rasbora)?

Thank for the reference, ckmulin!

I actually checked Angelfins. They have Seachem Safe 4L for marginally less $124 (including $22 for shipment). But they fall significantly behind on other items I needed, say 100W heaters - $23 vs. $9 - is a big difference when you buy a bunch. Also they do not have Seachem Acid Buffer, which I need. In other words they impressed me neither by prices nor by selection.

I came across of this US online shop today when looking for Seachem Safe. It appeared they ship small orders to Canada for 5.99 and anything higher than $49 is shipped for free. Anyone has had any experience with them, good or bad? For the reference, 4 kg bucket of Seachem Safe is $130 (free shipping). A 100W adjustable heater is $9 (non-submersible)

When it looks dirty and contains non-negligible amount of rotting matter. Otherwise I try to keep those bacteria colonies thriving.

What kind of longfin tetras? If you mean black skirt, I am sure there is plenty around.

You can go to Home Depot web site and check product availability. Rona may have it too.

If you are not going to grow _very_ demanding plants, you don't need HO 6500K or anything like that. Standard T8 warm white and cold white tubes will be more than adequate. I have four of them on one of my tanks (only two are on 90% of the time) and my plants are flourishing - I trim them every two weeks.

Ok, the fluo tube is $5. Ten bucks for a couple a year. What's the burnt LED replacement cost? I mean, if you want LED, then by all means, go for it. Just don't pretend it is an economical option

On #1, you can go with play sand available from Home Depot or Rona or the like (very cheap) or you can go for sand blasting sand, which is more coarse and not too expensive either. It is available from sand blasting suppliers - check Edmonton yellow pages. Gravel or sand from Burnco is the cheapest option of all; you can get a ton for ten bucks, but it contains limestone, so if you are concerned about water softness and acidity, probably not a good option. On #2, personally, the added cost of LED lights will never be justified by the savings on electricity bills. Compared to fluorescent, let's say 50W of saving for 10 hours a day equals 0.5 kWh or about 5 cents per day. This is a whopping $1.50 a month or $18 a year. Your LED would pay back may be in a decade, if it had lasted that long.

Your first aquarium item should be a good book. Calgary library has a good variety.

TNT does it by mail order.