DevonC

Oops my mistake , 90f not c , that was a typo. I also hope I didn't come across as argumentative just trying to be helpful. Another thing worth mentioning that I didn't think of when first replying is that when I say "ich" I'm referring to Ichthyophthirius multifiliis which is the common fresh water parasite. Marine "ich" is caused by a different species of parasite Cryptocaryon irritans . I don't keep salt tanks so I have no idea what the temperature tolerance or treatment methods are for that species . It's completely possible that heat is not effective on marine ich.

I won't debate the heat treatment lol learned that long ago . Your right there's all sorts of miss information and " experts" on forums who state all sorts of facts. The debate would just go back and forth. I've done the research many times , and used the treatment many times myself over the last decade always syccessfully and I've never had a repete infection. I know many many many other hobbiest a who can say the same. I've only ever found one research paper that indicated they had document ich in ponds in Florida at temperatures pushing an average temp of 90c. I've seen many "experts" take quotes from this paper as well over the years . What they leave out is that if you read the whole paper it also states that it could have been the result of cooler pockets in the pond/fluctuations or it may have been a heat resistant strain. They go on to say either way ich typically would not reproduce in those temperatures. In the end I won't argue it .I do encourage everyone to try it next time they have ich and see for themselves before loading a tank with medications unnecessarily. It takes ~10 days costs nothing and no risk. Only trick is you need constant steady temps day and night or it will fail and come back stronger. Cheers.

Awesome , how big were they when they started breeding? I have 6 bleheri, of the group 2 pairs have formed the 2 spares have fallen behind in growth and MIGHT be m/f but not sure they'll pair up. With any luck I'll get fry from the pairs in the spring.

Just curious if anyone else here is working with any channa species ?? The subtropicals big or small are my favorites. Im currently keeping Asiatica, Bleheri,Gachua & Aurantimaculata. I'm always looking for new species but they are not easy to find which is a shame since there are so many amazing species out there!

I stand corrected ! Not all but the majority are Herbivores . +1 to algae based or aquatic plants being an excellent diet.

Thanks for the welcomes ! I am aware of MAC but unfortunately I haven't gotten around to attending a meeting, seems meeting times just never work out for me to attend.

Great link! Thanks for bumping that up!

Nice collection!

They say a pictures worth a thousand words so I made this up a while back while debating ich treatments on another site. I think understanding ich helps regardless of what treatment u choose to go with so ... Hope that helps!

Salt is not required nor is it a treatment for ich I've had ich in brackish tanks ! Salt simply helps with slim coat production allowing the fish to slough off more of the cysts on their own but it's not a treatment. Temperature increase does work , at anything above 86f ich cannot complete it's reproductive life cycle . Typically upon increasing temps you'll initially see an increase in white spots as the ich already in the tank will rapidly hit free swimming stage and attach to fish . As those spots disappear they drop off and if temps are above 86 that's where it ends. 10 days is more then enough , you'll probably stop seeing ich half way through but keep it warm just in case. Key to success is that the whole tank must maintain a stable 86+. If there is a cold spot or a temporary drop in temps the ich rapidly gestate and start all over. As an added tip you may also want to increase aeration for the duration of the treatment because as the temperature rises the 02 levels will drop. Hope that helps!

Treat mbuna with peas , zucchini, cucumber , duckweed or leafy greens . NOT bring shrimp ,black worms or any other high protein diet. Mbuna are vegetarian and although they will devour it the high protein foods are a quick road to bloat and deaths .

It can be done. I run a turtle pond in the summers. This year I also ran a pool to raise my snakehead fry in and plan to add another one this summer for my RTG and other monsters . Water temperature in a pond does not vary as much or as rapidly as the air temperature. I have see it done with here in NB with mbuna and they got very large very quick in a pond setting vs fish from the same batch kept in tanks . Sunlight also makes the colours better/more intense. I've seen tropical SA's like Oscars as well. Just be sure to monitor temps closely toward the end of summer and get them back in before it starts to get too cold or things turn bad fast. You can also use a cover at night on smaller ponds to trap in heat and extend the season. Hope that helps.

I have an 18+" RTG , 10" Indo Dat, a pair of 20-22" endli bichirs , 16" ornate . 14" Channa Asiatica , 14-16" breeding pair of Channa Aurantimaculata. Plus a few soon to be monsters in grow out !

Very nice!

Hi everyone , my name is Devon. I came across this site in a random google search thought I'd join. I'm from New Brunswick, Canada , I've kept many different tanks over the years. I started with African rift lake cichlids and tropical communities then a few brackish tanks. Now I keep mostly oddballs and preds . I'm currently running 7 tanks, 2x 33g, 75g, 2x 100g, 160g & a 240g. With another 180 & 135 that are empty but won't be for long!! I'm Keeping a variety of bichirs & snakeheads, datnoids , Asian aro , Frt and a couple other oddballs in grow out. Looking forward to browsing the forum and chatting with other fish keepers!