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Dinner is Served


Michael Roth
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one these fish were not feeder two my tanks having been up and running for over a year with out problems and reg. waterchanges three these fish I bought were not just recently a new shipment as I know for a fact they had them for a while. And four my point was that it's dangerous to just stick fish from one tank into another without know where they came from, why they died, and what they were exposed to before going into your tank. I am not saying it's wrong or picking sides i am just saying ones needs to be very very careful. I have been dealing with cichlids for over 8yrs and never had a case of ick. That is why I was so mad.

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IMO any & all fish should go through a proper QT period before being introduced to the main tank. To not do so puts all stock in your tank at risk. Like I said, this is from reading a few 'hundred' posts where by not following a proper QT period, many, and sometimes all, stock were lost. I used to moderate on cichlid-forum in the illness folder, and lost count how many times a tank was wiped out shortly after the addition of a new fish, that had not been properly quarantined.

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Not to beat a dead horse, but the following article on Cryptobia and Spironucleus parasites, which is posted on the University Of Florida's Cooperative Extension Service web site, demonstrates just how important a quarantine period can be for newly purchased fish.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu//pdffiles/VM/VM07700.pdf

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I'm really not trying to come off rude here RD, but I read your fish list...

Labidochromis caeruleus (line bred, as well as F1)

Synodontis petricola

Neolamprologus brichardi

Tropheus duboisi 'Maswa'

and I'm sure they are beautiful, well cared for fish.

And while I don't by any stretch want to whip out the ruler...

mine:

Jardini Arowana - Scleropages Jardini

Purple Spotted Gudgeon - Mogurnda Mogurnda

Pygmy Catfish - Synodontis Petricola

Blue Turquoise Discus - Symphysodon Aequifasciata Haraldi

Cobalt Blue Discus - Symphysodon Aequifasciata Haraldi

Snow White Discus - Symphysodon sp

Pigeonblood Discus - Symphysodon sp

Clown Loaches - Botia macracanthus

Golden Zebra Loaches - Botia histrionica

Hillstream Loach - Beaufortia Kweichowensis

Otto Cats - Otocinclus Vittatus

Uaru - Uaru amphiacanthoides

Green Severums - Heros Severus

Gold Severums - Heros Severus

Spotted Bristlenose - Plecostamus Ancistrus

Gold Rams - Papiliochromis Ramirezi

Marble Pim - Leiarius longibarbis

Senegal Bichir - Polypterus senegalus

Ornate Bichir - Polypterus ornatipinnis

Fire Eel - Mastacemblus erythrotaenia

Yoyo Loach - Botia almorhae

Jaguar Cichlid - Cichlisoma Managuense

Rainbow Snakehead - Channa bleheri

Blue Panaque L239

Lima Shovelnose - Sorubim lima

Tiger Datnoid - Datnioides microlepis

Motoro Ray - Potamotrygon motoro

Florida Gar - Lepisosteus platyrhincus

Peacock Bass - Cichla ocellatus

I'm sure you can recognise that some of these species simply cannot be talked into a can of nutrafin.

Of course I do believe in quarantine.... again, sometimes it simply is not feasible. You do your research, you trust your providers, and you do your best to provide the best care your fish can have.

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Michael ....... FYI I currently only keep L. caeruleus, but what does that have to do with what I've stated thus far?

I understand that there are certain species that may require feeders etc, but that doesn't mean you have to feed them fish from the big box store tanks.

If you trust the fish/crayfish from Big Al's & aren't concerned with feeding them to your fish, then by all means do so, but please don't attempt to tell me that this is proper husbandry practices, and that you are not taking a risk every time you do so.

My original comment was simply to inform the uniformed, of what CAN happen when one takes risks such as these.

It was not an attempt to tell you how to feed your fish, or maintain your tanks.

Okey dokey? :)

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I marginally accept that premise, however...the informed know that ich is a natural occupant of all tanks

http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/manage...Ranson_Ich.html

thus quarantine alone is not going to prevent ich, that careful monitoring of you tanks inhabitants is 90% of the battle, proper filtration, lighting, stress management, ALL of these are key weapons in keeping your fish healthy. You have to use your best judgement at all times. Need feeders? Do your best to breed em. New fish? Quarantine is ESSENTIAL. If you can't feasibly quarantine your fish, then don't buy it until you either trust or monitor the fish in its current location for more than 2 weeks. Hey, if it gets sold, thems the breaks.

I won't address why I post the differences in our collections, I think that is self explanatory.

Lets remember though that there are other reasons fish get sick... while not discounting feeding.

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however...the informed know that ich is a natural occupant of all tanks

Actually that has never been proven, and certainly not by Terry Ranson. Not to get into a pizzing contest over ich, but you'll have to do better than that brief article. 9 times out of 10 ich arrives with a new fish that is infected with ich, not from fish in an established aquarium with no new occupants for several months. (even IF the fish are stressed) There is some evidence that points to the possibility of ich remaining dormant on a host for extended periods of time, but that certainly doesn't equate to it being "a natural occupant of all tanks".

Need feeders? Do your best to breed em. New fish? Quarantine is ESSENTIAL. If you can't feasibly quarantine your fish, then don't buy it until you either trust or monitor the fish in its current location for more than 2 weeks.

agreed

Edited by RD.
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Ok better ask... Is this the dark (black maybe?) Jeep cherokee (built up) on 33s or 35s that I keep finding in front of me when I do the loop from big als to golds to pisces?

Andy

Nope, but I might know who it is...... B) I'm up in Sylvan.

If it's the same guy, he's trying to sell it.

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It is a commonly held belief that the Ichthyophthirius organism is always present in your aquarium and needs only the right opportunity, such as stress resulting in a weakened immune function, to attack your fish. Surprisingly, I found no scientific data to support that claim. Credible sources state that there is no long-term dormant stage this parasite can exist in. While its lifecycle is longer at low temperatures (like that of an outdoor pond in a cooler climate), at average home aquarium temperatures this parasite would likely complete a lifecycle in less than a week. Considering that a single organism produces hundreds (if not thousands) of offspring, the logical question is “where would they all go?” Dr. Peter Burgess, writing for Practical Fishkeeping magazine (who also co-authored the book entitled A to Z of Tropical Fish Diseases and Health Problems), refers to the dormant concept as “rubbish.”
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